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No ice in ice trey
The easiest thing to do was pull the ice make off. After taking the 3 screws out of the wall of the freezer, take a screwdriver (flathead) and push on the tab for the electrical plug and wiggle the cord out. Then you can take 3 screws out for the main cover and another 2 screws on the next cover. There's the part, pop it out and replace holding pins and start the process of putting back together the opposite way you took it apart.
Unplug the refrigerator. Snap off the ring surrounding the dispenser from the bottom. There are two slots on the bottom. This is the toughest part of the repair because my refigerator is older and the part stuck. Then unscrew the two hex screws and unsnap the parts, then reassemble with the new parts. Snap the ring back on and you're all set. Pretty easy.
Ice maker not initiating harvest cycle (not making ice)
My troubleshooting narrowed down the problem to either the control assembly or the thermostat, so I bought both just in case. The motor assembly fixed the problem and I didn't need to install the thermostat.
The main thing I want to tell others who are doing this repair, however, relates to the thermostat. If you do indeed need to replace the thermostat (#PS380941) there is something you will need that is not included with the part or mentioned anywhere on this site. The instructions with the thermostat indicate you need to apply something called "Aluminastic" to the thermostat when installing it. I don't know about you, but that isn't something I have around the house, so be sure to order a tube of it when you get the thermostat so you don't have to take a trip to the store to get it to finish the repair.
old water inlet valve would not close completely, resulting in incessant leaks & puddles on the floor...
I removed the cardboard backer board at the bottom rear of the refrigerator. I had to remove two screws to free the old inlet valve from the frame. The old water tube fittings were compression (screw on) type, so I cut the ends off cleanly with a sharp blade. They inserted into the valve holes easily - just needed a good push to lock them in solidly. The tubes are different sizes, so it was easy to know which one goes in which hole - the electric connectors were easy to transfer from old to new... screwed the new valve back onto the frame, re-installed the cardboard backer, flushed the system -- and no more leaks!!
Ice Maker would not eject the Ice either by cube or crushed
removed the Ice Tray, removed the cover that the motor is attached to, The biggest problem I had was getting the coupler off the drive shaft. It would not tightyen up and would not turn auger. I had to remove the unit and take a hack saw to cut the coupler off The other problem I could not get the wireing harness unpluged from the refigrator, and had to remove each individual wire from its contact. I had to remove the whole motor unit inorder to get the old coupler off.
First I removed the old lightbulb from the socket and replaced it with a new one to confirm that the bulb was not the problem. I then pryed the socket out with a flat-head screwdriver. I could tell that the socket was anchored in its hole with clips so it was relatively easy to pry it out. Once the socket was out, I disconnected the lead wires and ordered a replacement socket kit from Partselect. When the new one arrived, I reconnected the lead wires to it, snapped it back into its hole, screwed in a new lightbulb, and presto!! The light was back on with no further problem. Thank you, Partselect!! A $15.00 part saved me what probably would have been at least a $100. service call and heaven knows what the technician would have told me I needed!!!
Took all the screws out of the plastic shroud that encloses the switch .There only four that I needed to remove, were the two in front where the switches that go,they go in horizontally and two in the back with large washers on them that hold the back to the top of the box that go in vertically.The switch was a snap ( make that two snaps ) the wiring is almost self explanatory. then it gos back to the way you took it off. OH! and don't forget to turn the light bulb all the way back in to the socket , so the light will work after you take the time to install it yourself.I had the water supply line from under the box to the water dispenser in the door and the total bill on that was one hundred thirty seven and a hand full of change.Don't be afraid to do it yourself the savings is enough on one one item to make several months payments on a new one Randy the "Handy Man'
I noticed the fan was running but not the compressor, they are wired in series meaning the compressor should also have power and you should hear the compressor. Could not hear compressor coming on, removed the white relay attached to the side of the compressor and could hear loose pieces shaking in relay. Ordered new relay and plugged it in, took less than five minutes. Very Easy. Thank you Partsselect
plastic Ice bin auger broke and needed to be replaced
The repair was actually easy; however I have an ice dispencer/crusher attached and the which the diagram supplied with the part did not include. I had to make several calls before I was e-mailed the diagram. Suggestions: note that the screw at the end of the auger goes in the reverse direction (this took me about 20 minutes to figure out even though it was shown in the diagram). Also, be sure to keep the ice crusher parts in order and be sure the white plastic tab on the crusher fits into a depression in the housing. I did not notice this and had to take it all apart and redo the install. It works great!!!
The repair was made simply by removing the old broken Water Inlet Valve (two screws and 4 tubes) and replacing it with the new one. All the tubes and wiring are the same so it was relatively easy to replace. Now we have fresh made ice again
The control bracket is made of plastic and holds two microswitches that activate the ice dispenser and the water dispenser. The plastic clips that held the switches on the control bracket broke so that the switches no longer operated when the ice dispenser lever was operated.
Two screws held the external dispenser bezel, and two screws held the control bracket in place. The wiring and switches were transferred to the new bracket and the new bracket screwed into place. Then the bezel was replaced.
Total repair time was less than 5 minutes. The control bracket was $16.50 with shipping and arrived two days after I placed the order.
The PartSelect website had a clear diagram of the control bracket so I was comfortable with the order.
The door is very easy to remove. There is one nut for the cap on the top of the soor hinge. Once the cap is removed, you need to remove the 3 nuts holding the hinge in place. Simply lift the door off the lower hinge and rest it on the dining room table. I set towels down to protect the stainless finish. The closing cam will be visible on the bottom of the door. I choose to replace the lower cam and the upper cam at the same time. I did not know what the problem cam was. The door works good as new. I put a small amount of vaseline where the two cams rub to provide a lubricant.
Cooling would shut down and not restart until refrigterator was turn off and back on.
First I removed the cover plate over the cover over the thermostat, by snapping it out. Then I removed the four screws holding the cover over the thermostat in place. Next I removed the screw, which held the cover over the thermostat sensor. I then removed that cover and the unit, which exchanges air, flow between freezer and refrigerator. I then removed the two screws, which held the thermostat in place. I then removed the thermostat with the sensor and the white tube, which covered it. Then I removed the white tube from the sensor.
To install the new thermostat I first inserted the thermostat sensor into the white tub. I lubricated the sensor with a very small dab of Vaseline. Then I placed the sensor unit in the unit, which exchanges air between refrigerator and freezer. I next reinstalled the unit, which exchanges air between refrigerator and freezer. Then I reinstalled the cover over the thermostat sensor. I then installed the thermostat with the two screws, which held it in place. Then I reinstalled the cover the thermostat with the four screws, which held it in place. Last I snapped the cover plate in place.
Believed the condensor motor was defective and causing strange odor
First disconnected the quick release electrical connection. Then loosened the three screws that were holding the motor in the bracket. However, space is limited and even with small hands it was rather difficult as the screws were in there very tight. There are a few sharp edges on the bracket and in the surrounding area of the motor area, and nicked myself a couple of times. Removed the fan blade from the old motor and attached it the new motor with the old flat washer/screw. Reconnected the electrical connection and that was that. All-in-all an easy repair.
Excessive noise was coming from the freezer section of my side be side refrigerator
Cleaning out the freezer took the longest time. Once the freezer was clean I turned off the freezer which did not deactivate the light in the freezer. This is a tight area to work in and not having to hold a flashlight made the job much easier. I then removed the shelf slider brackets for the 3 lower pullout drawers. The next step was to remove the interior aluminum back panel (6 screws) which covers the evaporator motor and the coil. Before removing the 3 electric wires that are attached to the evaporator motor make sure the power is off to the motor. The removal of the motor was fairly straightforward and I would suggest removing the plastic fan blade first and then the connector wires. It helped knowing in advance that the plastic fan blade would come off with a little prying. Be careful when prying the fan off so that you don’t damage the plastic motor mount bracket. Once you have installed the motor I would suggest turning the freezer back on to make sure that the evaporator motor works before reinstalling the aluminum back panel and slider brackets.