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Ice stuck in mold. mold coating was peeling off.
Turn off water supply too ice maker and unplug the fridge power. using a nut driver remove one bottom screw from the bottom, near the front. The other two from the side atop the ice mold. (loosen screws and ice maker will lift up and off.) I set the ice maker on the counter, snapped of the front cover by hand. using a phillips driver, remove two screws near the bottom corners.(they go through the circuit board into the ice mold) circuit board in one hand, other end of ice mold in the other, slowly pull apart about 1 inch. remove the silver colored "on, off" bar at the end by snapping the retainer out of the ice mold. (the silver bar stays with the circuit board end) Watch how the ice guide(white fingers stationary on side of ice mold) hooks too the ice mold on each end. swap ice guide to new ice mold, insert three guide pins on end into holes on the circuit board, while holding ice guide onto ice mold, watch rotation bar while inserting into motor.(it only splines one way.) when each piece is lined up, simply push together and reinstall two screws. snap circuit board cover into place. reinstall ice maker into freezer in reverse order.
After unplugging the appliance I removed acess cover on back of fridge with a screwdriver, pulled the overload start device straight off the compressor, unplugged the red/ white factory pre-terminated conductors and replaced the bad start device. Took about 2 minutes. You must remove as much of the dust and lint from condenser element to keep this from happening again since heat will build up and fry the overload again.
simply removed wires from the old motor and gently lifted it out by by the metal clips - put the old bracket on the new motor, snapped on the new fan, replaced the wires, reinstalled the shield. All done in about 15 min.
ridiculous how a tiny plastic broken part required a full motor assembly replacement. that being said, i went online, found this website and easily identified the part i needed to order. i was impressed when it arrived within a couple of days. removing the old motor and replacing the new was a piece of cake...and i am NOT mechanically inclined,
Really simple clear instructions with photos. With this the repair was quick and easy simply remove the bad relay and replace with the correct one. Great delivery time with terrific instructions.
We rolled the refrigerator out away from the wall and it was obvious where the break was located. We took out the old water spout for the ice maker and replaced the tube and the tubing from the solenoid. We turned it on and soon we had water dripping everywhere. We unloaded and defrosted the freezer which got all of the remaining ice that was stuck in there. We put everything back together. I read in some instructions in the manual that it might take 24 hours for the ice maker to reprogram itself and start producing ice. I was only about 12 hours and we had ice again and everything worked well. You really do not have to disconnect the water from the main line, the solinoid controls that part of operation and turns the water off until the ice trays are free and clear.
I removed the cover for the lower part of the refrigerator to inspect the wiring and motor. I removed the switch and removed the wiring from it. The wiring just plugs in. When the new switch arrived, I just reinstalled it to the side of the motor and the refrigerator has been working fine ever since.
I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.
Removed 2 control panel knobs and face plate that is snaped in place using a knife to prey it causing to snape lose. Removed 4 cover screws that gave me acess to Defrost Timer. Remove two fastining screws on timer unit. Remove electrical color coded 4 prong connector plug. Have to make sure black jumper wire on the new timer kit is connected to the correct one of the 4 prongs as to instruction sheet for my model refrigerator. Reassemble in reverse order. Bingo! Fixed.
Cut off old nozzle. Tried electricians tape to join the old and new tubing for fishing, but tube with tape on it, wouldn't fit through hole in hinge at bottom of door. Fished nylon twine through new tube then old tube from dispenser end and was able to feed old tube out and new tube in. Fast and easy. Took more time to clean all the dust and dirt I found down under, than to make the repair.
I took the cover off the control settings and found the timer. Removed two screws and replaced the defective one with the new one. Had to pay attention to directions since the timer is used in different ways and to make sure the loose wire was installed correctly (not the same way as the original ground was connected).
This is in a rental house; Refrigerator/freezer has been off for a few weeks so just opened the freezer door and used screwdriver to pry out one corner then pliers to grab and pull old gasket (seal) off. Had the new one laid out overnight to relax it; placed one corner on and then the opposite corner then repeated the other two corners. Positioned the keeper edge plastic all of the way around to place the gasket in the door. Closed the door to check the seal and plugged unit back in. Waited and then checked air temp with hand held IR temp gauge. All checked good, no cold spots anywhere. Piece of cake!
Resistance on solenoid for water to ice maker measured low (5 ohms). I assumed the coil insulation had degraded because there was almost a short with such low resistance. Replaced the water inlet valve kit and ice maker filled with water and everything worked great. I had to cut the ends of the hoses because my model use compression fittings and this new valve kit used the push on fittings. No leaks no problems. The cables plugged in the opposite direction from the old valve kit, so I had to re-route the cable a little and create slack by removing from 1 cable clamp.
