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The Icee ejector arm stopped turning due to icecube jam.
Not being a professional repair tech, I looked at this sites provided schematics of the ice-maker. I assumed due to the problem I had which parts to order. the parts arrived within 3 days and after I took the icemaker apart I quickly realized I ordered the wrong parts. I called and asked what to do. since I did not open the packaging for the "wrong" parts I was able to make a return. I then called back because I discoverd the part I really needed wasn't shown in the sketch. I was told that I needed to order a new motor and it would have the part I needed. I ordered the part and within 3 days it arrived. Once I had the new part I was able to quickly install. Now I have a icemaker that works better than new since ,now it does not seem to jam either.
To make the repair: First remove the 1/4" nut head screw on the under side of the ice maker. Remove the shroud covering the electrical connection. Slide out the maker and depress the locking clip. Disconect the electrical wires. Pull off the motor cover (no screws). Remove the three philips head screws from the motor housing. Gently remove the motor. Next loosen the screws and pull the "black motor-mounting harness" untill enough clearance to remove the ejector arm and deflector tray. The new kit will have a new ejector arm and deflector tray. Insallation is the reverse. The schematics were very helpfull. It was very simple and I saved a $150 service fee to have someone else do it for me. PS. When I called I was able to speak to real live Americans who were able to help me, were pleasant, polite, and professional, AND they did not treat me like I was stupid because I am not a professional repair man. I will definately use this service again. and recommend to all my DIY friends!!
Took off refrigerator door from top hinge and lifted off. A little difficulty getting worn out parts off (needed dremel to drill out worn plastic); replaced with new parts, the screw head holding on the part was starting to be worn as well but still worked. If I hadn't got to this repair soon the bottom of the door aluminum would have total worn out as it is, it has a deep groove but not noticeable. The new cams also force the door closed tight instead of slightly ajar at times.
When I took the pan out of the box, it was not the exact same as the one I had. But it fit perfect. The only hard part was the fact that it looked so good I had to clean the entire fridge side. (Smile)
Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed
Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you
First i unpluged unit from wall then removed the ice maker front door ,removed side cover with nutdriver 1/4,pressed the in on the the two releas clips on the botom of the unit then pulled the unit out the disconnected the cable.
Being too lazy to pull out the refrigerator out and unplug it, I turned it off at the fuse box. Opened the freezer door and unscrewed the three screws holding the sensor. Pulled the sensor out and unscrewed the board then unpluged it and removed it. Plugged in new board, screwed it in then replaced the three screws. Repeat on the other side. The most difficult part was getting to one of three screws on each side; it almost required a third hand to hold the flap door between the ice maker and the bin, while removing said screw. I must at say that this product is definitely over engineered.
After lots of internet exploring and diagnosis, the icemaker comes right out, and with three screws out and in, the job is all but done. Don't pay anyone for this repair!!!!!
Front bearing had worn so that the fan vibrated causing the noise.
I removed the cardboard back then using a nut driver removed the three mounting screws, removed the old fan/motor and installed the new one, installing the three screws and replacing the cardboard cover.
My big problem was getting the right parts. Don't ever order refrigerator parts using the refrigerator model number. I did and got the wrong part, sent it back and talked to the parts lady and ordered again describing the error, the needed parts shape etc and she sent me the exact part I had sent back. I sent it back and removed the fan motor to get the part number, called and ordered by number and got the right one. Hallelujah!
1. Unplugged refrigerator. 2. Emptied Freezer. 3. Removed Ice Maker. 4. Waited a few hours for ice to melt around back panel & nuts. 5. Removed back panel and the cover over fan and fan motor. 6. Waited many more hours for ice to thaw over fins, wiring, etc. 7. Easily replaced the bi-mental defrost thermostat. 8. Replaced panel, fan cover, ice maker. 9. Plugged in refrigerator and waited a bit.
This worked! Yahoo.
p.s. I am a 65+ year old mechanically minded woman. :-)
Ice Maker was dripping excess water and making large icicles inside the freezer.
Found several videos online showing this process. It was difficult to separate the main water line input module from the original water valve, but persistence paid off and I was able to separate them using a large flat head screwdriver by twisting in grove on the back side. Putting in the new valve system was really easy once you cut the old screw nut sections off the lines. The output lines are different sizes so you can't mess that part up. Just be careful when dealing with the 3rd line that is the same as one of the output lines in size. I just marked mine with a permanent marker so I didn't get them confused or swapped around. Another problem was the two pieces did not fit together like I expected because of design differences. I was able to mount them one above the other by using one of the screw holes for the cardboard back cover to mount the main water input module. Everything works fine now. No leaks.
