Washer Sensors
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Your Price
$43.51
Sensor
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-Hg8rLGiKQ
The hardest part on fixing this is trying to move the washer out of its place so I can tilt it to see underneath the washer where the repair would be. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS11749664
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10178988
This rotary position sensor is a genuine OEM part for your washing machine. It helps to ensure the load of clothing stays balanced during the wash cycle. Customers have rated this repair as easy. To complete this repair, you will need an Allen wrench, 3/8 inch socket, and a screwdriver. The repair will involved turning off the power and water supply, and tilting the washer on its front to access the sensor.
Fixes these symptoms
- Will not agitate
- Will Not Start
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Edgardo from SALEM, OR
F51 error code
Pretty easy! Just follow this link on how to fix the problem: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-Hg8rLGiKQ
The hardest part on fixing this is trying to move the washer out of its place so I can tilt it to see underneath the washer where the repair would be. Read more...
Your Price
$36.96
Temperature Sensor
be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from
the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the
rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" into the narrow slot which displaces the
wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe
the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they
connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this
repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support! Read more...
PartSelect Number PS11755214
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10467289
This part regulates the temperature of the water in the tub. The sensor is located in the heating element.
Fixes these symptoms
- No hot or cold water
- Will not drain
- Will Not Start
- See more...
Installation Instructions
william from VIRGINIA BCH, VA
Replacing the heat sensor following an F-24 Error Notice.
I followed your repair video explicitly, simple fix. However, one shouldbe careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from
the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the
rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" into the narrow slot which displaces the
wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe
the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they
connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this
repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support! Read more...
Your Price
$37.40
KIT SENSOR SPEED
when remounting the motor, a second set of hands is helpful to reapply the belt and install the bolts. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS8768455
Manufacturer Part Number WL49X20360
Installation Instructions
Terry from HAMPTON, VA
replace speed sensor
The easiest way we found to install the speed sensor was to detach the motor from the washer by removing 2 hex bolts...one on the left and one on the right. This was much easier than other suggestions of removing the impeller itself and working in such a tight space. when placing the sensor on, it mounts to the back side of the motor in designated bracket area; the green face of the sensor must point downward and towards the impeller. when remounting the motor, a second set of hands is helpful to reapply the belt and install the bolts. Read more...
Your Price
$26.32
Thermistor,NTC
PartSelect Number PS3528953
Manufacturer Part Number 6322FR2046C
Fixes these symptoms
- Will Not Start
- See more...
Your Price
$41.19
Your Price
$25.74
Washer Water Temperature Sensor
Unplug the washer. Pull off the front panel there are two clips 1" below the top, where the panel and the top meet. Slide a 1" putty knife about 5" from the right edge and push to disengage the retainer. Ditto left side. The pump is exposed on the bottom right. Super easy to remove but make sure you have 4" glass cooking pan or another way to get the water that remains in the line that goes to the washer tub. The hardest part is those stupid retaining clips. The back one is too far to get two hands back there, so holding the wrench, the pump, and the hose is almost impossible without another set of hands, which I didn't have. Took me 15 minutes for one clip. I suggest you first unplug the electrical and unbolt the pump before you do it so you can get more reach with the hoses. Ditto on the reverse.
I replaced the temperature sensor at the same time as the inlet valves. Unscrew three bolts to the back of the washer top where the controls are. Move the washer forward 3" so its not even with the dryer if the dryer is on the right side of the washer. The top assembly pops out and then to the right 3/4" to remove it. Take a picture of the electrical connections before you do anything. Unplug all the quick disconnect electrical connections so you don't mess up and smack the circuit boards, or pull too hard on a wire. Set it aside. The valve replacement is straight forward, just a few nuts holding it down, adjustable pliers to unscrew the hoses, and a hose clamp. Remove the valve. Then remove the temperature sensor. It's held in place on top of the water inlet, the Y-shaped part inside the washing machine that lets the water drop down. You need to unscrew that Y-shaped piece with its 2 sheet metal screws. Easy job. Pull it out and guide the electrical wires down the hole. Replace the sensor and reinstall the opposite way. But, you will see some tape on the wires which I think is to make sure the jiggling and vibrations don't rub through the insulation where it hits the metal (in the area where the valves are). Get some strapping tape or something to protect it. Carefully pull the wires back up the channel and tape around the areas that contact the metal when the wire turns 90 degrees to be plugged in. Install the valves. Plug everything back in. In my washer the electrical connections are all keyed so you shouldn't be able to plug it into the wrong spot. However, the red wire on the temperature sensor that goes to the far left can be plugged into a different slot if you aren't careful. Check the photo. Also, use zip ties to keep the wires from bouncing around.
I ran a few loads before putting the front back on. I don't recommend that if you have kids or stupid adults or cats or .... so cordon off the area if you aren't alone. That way you can see if you have any leaks from the pump and you don't have to take things apart again.
All works fine now! The biggest cost of the job is your labor, so if you are replacing the valves, buy and replace the temperature sensor because it tells the valves when to open and close. It might be the faulty part and not the valve. Good luck. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS2355966
Manufacturer Part Number WH12X10410
The water temperature sensor monitors and helps regulate the water temperature.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Michael from ORMOND BEACH, FL
Would go through the whole cycle 50% of the time. The pump run but would only pump water out half the times. Sometimes cold water wouldn't work.
I was about to buy a new washer but thought I'd give this a go. I'm about average with mechanical things and good with electrical. The washer would work great for 10 loads then suddenly we'd come in and it wouldn't have drained. We would turn it to "spin and drain" and that would take care of it. Then it started happening more. And, since we moved, the water was always hotter than we were setting it for. I think the cold water shut entry valve was failing.Unplug the washer. Pull off the front panel there are two clips 1" below the top, where the panel and the top meet. Slide a 1" putty knife about 5" from the right edge and push to disengage the retainer. Ditto left side. The pump is exposed on the bottom right. Super easy to remove but make sure you have 4" glass cooking pan or another way to get the water that remains in the line that goes to the washer tub. The hardest part is those stupid retaining clips. The back one is too far to get two hands back there, so holding the wrench, the pump, and the hose is almost impossible without another set of hands, which I didn't have. Took me 15 minutes for one clip. I suggest you first unplug the electrical and unbolt the pump before you do it so you can get more reach with the hoses. Ditto on the reverse.
I replaced the temperature sensor at the same time as the inlet valves. Unscrew three bolts to the back of the washer top where the controls are. Move the washer forward 3" so its not even with the dryer if the dryer is on the right side of the washer. The top assembly pops out and then to the right 3/4" to remove it. Take a picture of the electrical connections before you do anything. Unplug all the quick disconnect electrical connections so you don't mess up and smack the circuit boards, or pull too hard on a wire. Set it aside. The valve replacement is straight forward, just a few nuts holding it down, adjustable pliers to unscrew the hoses, and a hose clamp. Remove the valve. Then remove the temperature sensor. It's held in place on top of the water inlet, the Y-shaped part inside the washing machine that lets the water drop down. You need to unscrew that Y-shaped piece with its 2 sheet metal screws. Easy job. Pull it out and guide the electrical wires down the hole. Replace the sensor and reinstall the opposite way. But, you will see some tape on the wires which I think is to make sure the jiggling and vibrations don't rub through the insulation where it hits the metal (in the area where the valves are). Get some strapping tape or something to protect it. Carefully pull the wires back up the channel and tape around the areas that contact the metal when the wire turns 90 degrees to be plugged in. Install the valves. Plug everything back in. In my washer the electrical connections are all keyed so you shouldn't be able to plug it into the wrong spot. However, the red wire on the temperature sensor that goes to the far left can be plugged into a different slot if you aren't careful. Check the photo. Also, use zip ties to keep the wires from bouncing around.
I ran a few loads before putting the front back on. I don't recommend that if you have kids or stupid adults or cats or .... so cordon off the area if you aren't alone. That way you can see if you have any leaks from the pump and you don't have to take things apart again.
All works fine now! The biggest cost of the job is your labor, so if you are replacing the valves, buy and replace the temperature sensor because it tells the valves when to open and close. It might be the faulty part and not the valve. Good luck. Read more...
Your Price
$19.57
Washer Overfill Sensor Assembly
PartSelect Number PS3533598
Manufacturer Part Number EBD50360202
This overfill sensor is for washers and sensor detects when water splashes out of the tub.
Rotor Position Sensor Assembly
PartSelect Number PS3529186
Manufacturer Part Number 6501KW2002A
This is a replacement sensor assembly for your washer. It may also be known as a motor rotor position sensor. The sensor assembly monitors the direction and speed of the spinning rotor and communicates this information to the electronic control board. If your washer pumps but will not spin or agitate, you may have a damaged sensor assembly. This part is sold individually, and is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. Be sure to shut off the power to your washer before you begin this repair.
