Detergent Dispenser with Rinse Cap

Turned off power to unit, 'cuz it has a solenoid lead to open the soap door.
Removed the phillips head screws that held the door together. The screw are located on the inside edge of the door, there are 10-12 of them.
Spearated the door shells carefully, trying not to disturb the location of the wiring in the middle of the door.

Found the 4 screws that hold the module assembly to the door from the inside, and removed them.
Popped the assembly out, cleaned the gasket-seat area and placed the new one in place.
Carefully tightened the 4 screws. It is easy to over-tighten them, so only turn them until you feel they are snug. Let the gasket do the work.
Attached the two solenoid control wires in the same positions they were in before they were removed from the old assembly.
Re-assembled the door halves, again taking care to not over-tighten the phillips-head screws. One got "spun" and I removed it and re-set it into some epoxy.
Returned power to the dishwasher, and stopped washing dishes by hand.
Note: the latch is now made with a plastic that is more dense, and likely will not fail as soon as the original one did. I think GE learned something about the durability of their component plastics since this was originally built.

1. Remove the outside panel on the door by removing 10 phillips screws on inside of door. Outside panel will drop loose - do not let it drop.
2. There are 3 electrical plugs that will have to be removed. The first is a 2" long quick connect in the upper middle of the door panel - it will pull straight out. Remember where it makes its connection. Now the exterior door panel will drop down to the floor, pivoting on two axle screws at the bottom. The interior panel can be left vertical for ease of access.
3. The other two electrical connections are on the left side of the old dispenser and can be removed with a simple pull to the left.
4. Remove the six (6) phillips screws from the panel that hold the dispenser in position. Two retainers will also drop off, which hold the dispenser top and bottom.
5. Angle the dispenser and work toward the inside of the dishwasher, turning as necessary to remove from the opening.
6. Reverse the process for installation. Remember to reconnect all three electrical connections.

This was a piece of cake. The original soap dispenser never worked right and always left unused soap. The new part was easy to install and works great. Only needed a 1/4" nut driver and philips screw driver to pull the outside panel and replace the module rinse and cap assy. Easy!

I replaced the broken/cracked soap and Jet Dry dispenser (i.e. MODULE RINSE AND CAP ASM - part #PS1481889). (Water was leaking into the soap holder and hardening the soap into a lump before the door would open, rendering the soad useless).

Steps:

1) Unplugged the dishwasher.
2) Unscrewed the 6 screws holding the front stainless steel panel to the plastic door; set aside panel and insulation.
3) Unplugged two wires from small electric motor in broken ASM.
4) Unscrewed 6 screws holding ASM in place; easily slid out of door.
5) Slid in replacement ASM and put 6 screws back in (tightened snugly to make slightly warped door bend to new ASM).
6) Plug back in two wires into new ASM.
7) Re-attached stainless steel cover to door (having a 2nd person hold this in place while screwing would've helped).

All done - works like a charm! No more dirty dishes because the soap didn't work right...

Bottom line: If you have a phillips head screwdriver, you can do this repair. Easy to do.

I took the front off of the dishwasher door, loosened the screws, unplugged the module and replaced it with the new module. This repair was the easiest repair I've ever completed!

I handed the parts to my husband and asked him to do it.

The first posted instruction is dead on (except there are 14 phillips screws (not 10) on inside of door. Also, when reconnecting the 2" quick connect, make sure it is fully inserted - otherwise the numbers on the display panel will not show correctly. Mine didn't the first time, and I had to re-open the door panel and giggle around with the connection to get the numbers to display properly.

First removed the eight philips head screws that hold the outside bottom door cover, to get access to the module. Then removed the two wires and the ten screws holding the module in place. Put the new module back in, reconnected the wires, and re-tighten everything. Did not have to use the bracket and cap.

Watched online video, repaired myself in under 10 minutes.
Easy fix with video instructions

Easy repair-removed hex nuts and and screws to pop out old part and replace with new one. New part works better than the original! 1st replacement part arrived with a broken piece, a quick, courteous phone call got a replacement sent out. It took a 2nd phone call to obtain the refund, but the customer care reps are efficient and friendly. I would order from them again for positive service reasons alone.