Temperature Control Thermostat

verifed temp cntrol by putting element in ice bath removed box and replaced both time and control

There are 3 parts that actually control cooling cycle: Temperature Thermostat, Defrost Timer and sensor/relay on the back side of the appliance. If fridge cycles up after you turn small knob on defrost time (you'll hear click, problem lies between first two components.
Replacing them is really easy. Make sure you handle thermostat wire carefully. Check for connectors holding firm.
Use schematic diagrams you may find at this site.

Good luck.

The Roper part was no longer available and a substitute was not recommended. But because of the excellant descriptions and photos on Part Select I was able to find a Fridgedaire part that looked exactly like the one I needed to replace. I it fit perfectly... I am impressed and have bookmarked your site for later purchases.
The thermostat is located at the top of the refridgerator compartmennt under the freezer. Remove light bulb to access the screw at the back of the thermostat/defrost timer housing. Remove screw and slide the assembly to the back to release the 2 tabs holding the front. Remove the temperature control knob on the thermostat, remove the 3 wires connected to the thermostat noting where which wire goes for re-assembly. Using a philips #2 screwdriver, remove the 2 screws under the temperature control knob and remove the thermostat. Do not lose the screws, the new thermostat does not have mounting hardware. Piece of cake, Ice cream cake if you get the freezer working again.

I removed the screw holding the assembly to the roof of the refrigerator and pulled it dow. I took out the two screws holding the Temp control, removed the three wires and reversed the process to reassemble. Works great now!

Tapping on the thermostat control would start the compressor, but after cycle was complete it would not start again on it's own. Seemed like a slam-dunk that the control contacts were worn out. PS had the right part in stock, and it arrived quickly. Nearly identical to the original part, it installed without any problems. One minor glitch, though - the mounting tabs are tapped for #6 screws, but the original screws were #4. Since no hardware was included, I had to dig up larger screws to make it work. Not a big deal at all - but it would be handy to include these screws. Works just like the original, maintains inside temp just fine. A no-brainer for 65 bucks. This fridge is 15+ years old, and now serves as a beer cave. Cold beers for everyone!

Problems. Two screws holding temperature control module to the plastic case did not fit the holes in temperature controler were too big. So I used gorilla glue to help secure but it was still loose a little bit with all the connections made i turned it on but it did not work

After realizing the engineering on this dryer was different, I was able to access the temperature control thermostat through the front, along the side of the heating element. Several philips screws hold the front on, removing them allows you to take front panel off. At that point the heating element is below. I took a picture of the wires, so that when I started removing them, it would be easy to reconnect. Two screws hold the heating element in place, upon removing the heating element housing pulls gently forward and out, be careful of the wires, the thermostat is the second thing connected to the housing of the heating element. Two more philips screws hold the housing to the bottom of the dryer. Two wires are removed from thermostat, which is also held in place by two philips screws. Remove wires, one at a time and place on thermostat exactly as they were on old thermostat. Hold new thermostat in place with the two Philip screws, and reassemble in reverse order. And enjoy your working dryer once more, hopefully for years to come.