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★★★★★
★★★★★
Robert B - August 13, 2020
Verified Purchase
Looks good
Arrived quickly, haven't installed yet.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Robert M - May 29, 2018
Verified Purchase
Faceplate for Electronic Control Board
Bought the faceplate which greatly simplified the installation of my Electronic Control board which I also bought. Pretty easy repair. Don't try prying off the old one! Oven works like new!
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 4.0 / 5.0, 2 reviews.
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
Damaged and worn controls faceplate
1. Unplugged power cord. 2. Remove (5) screws securing the top rear access panel. 3. Remove (4) screws securing the clear plastic control board. 4. Peel off the old faceplate. 5. Install new faceplate being careful to align properly. 6. Re-install control board. 7. Re-install rear access panel. 8. Connec
... Read moret power cord and test all controls.
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Steven from FRANKLINTON, NC
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
2 of 2 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Oven would not heat, buttons not working, beeping
Turned power off, removed back cover, removed four screws for control board and replaced. The control board shorted out due to accidentally lifting the bottom heating coil while energized. This caused it to short out on the terminals in the back (did not trip breaker for some reason). Removing those connectors to clean them up a little is
... Read more the only reason I needed the pliers. All the wires are color coded to put them back where they came from on new board. Because of other stories on this web site, I knew to order the $12 faceplate graphics so I didn't have to try to peel off the old one. Unfortunately, the graphic was damaged in shipping. However, I am getting a replacement free of charge, but I have to take it all apart again to stick it on. 1/4" nut driver is really all a person needs to do this job. Pliers could help pull wires off terminals if they are really tight, and the back panel might be secured with one phillips head screw also. Mine wasn't, but it looked like it should have been so it is now. I also put a little electrical tape on the inside of the rear panel behind those connectors for the bottom heating coil, so if it is ever lifted up again, it won't short out and fry the control board again.