High Limit Thermal Fuse

First I unplugged the dryer from the wall outlet. Then, removed the access panel in the lower front (held on by 2 screws near the floor). Then, I removed the black plastic air duct (held by 3 screws) in front of the blower. Then, with a Sharpie marker, next to each wire terminal lug, I labeled on the chassis the COLOR of each wire where it plugs on to a terminal lug (for proper wiring re-assembly later). Then, thru the lower front, I reached into the lower left rear of the dryer to remove the heating element assembly from its metal duct (held by 3 or 4 screws) - it slides down a bit, then it is easily removable. I layed the element on the floor in front of the dryer - all wiring still intact. Then, using the NEW HEATING ELEMENT and SENSORS ordered, I assembled them to match the original, re-using screws off of the old unit - and moving the wiring one-by-one from the original to the new assembly. I then installed the new heating element assembly into the duct at the lower rear of the dryer. I then replaced the 2 sensors on the front metal panel of blower housing, with new parts from my order, re-using the original wiring and screws. Then I re-installed the black plastic duct onto the front of the blower. Then, on the top of the dryer, I dissassembled the control panel from the rear, by removing 5 screws. I then found the resistor mounted on the back of the timer, and replaced it with the new one. Since the new resistor did not come with terminal lugs crimped on its wires, I had to cut the terminal lugs off of the original resistor and solder them onto the new resistor. I then reassembled the control panel. I then plugged the dryer back into the wall outlet and did a test run with no clothes. IT WORKED !! Then I reinstalled the lower front access panel and ran the dryer with wet clothes. IT WORKED !!

Replaced heating element, which had a fuse and high limit thermostat attached to it. Remove 2 screws to pull the bottom cover plate on the dryer, remove 3 screws to pull the blower inlet shroud and then remove 2 screws to pull the heating element off the air inlet duct at the back of the dryer. Remove 2 screws each for the thermostat and fuse. Installed the new devices back onto the new heating element. Power leads to the element are long so you can pull the whole thing out very easily. Couldn't have been any easier to fix.

I did reseach online and the first thing they told you to check were the thermostats and the thermal fuse, so I ordered those parts. I took the dryer apart, found the parts and tested them with my ohm meter and they all tested fine. I should have tested them initially before ordering them. Then I did more research and found out that if the thermostats are fine, it is more than likely the Coil Valves and there are 2. I also learned that you can test these parts and they may test correctly, but they will test differently when they are hot versues cold. I seemed confident that these would do the trick. I ordered the parts and replaced them, which was very easy to do. Then I put the dryer back together, started it and it worked perfectly!!!

PartSelect website was very help and I received the parts very quickly. I'm returning the parts that were not used for a refund.

removed front cover and top took drum out remove heating unit replced limit switch and fuse reinstalled installed new idler put new belt around drum installed drum replaced glides put top back on and front cover . then replaced boosting heater witch is on the blower also cycling thermostat

very easy

This dryer required complete take apart to get to heating element, including removal of drum. Multimeter indicated thermal fuse blown. I replaced it and it blew again. I replaced fuse(again), heating element, limit thermostat, and cycling thermostat to eliminate all potential causes. Dryer works like new. Cycling thermostat had been bad for years, but I never knew it, just had to run dryer two cycles all the time.

This was the second time we lost the High Limit Thermal Fuse. My wife dried some new towels and the lint filter completely plugged before the cycle was done and popped the high limit fuse. I went throught this before and paid a fortune for a repairman and ended up installing the thermal fuse myself so I did it myself and saved about $100. I also ordered an element kit so I have it. I will just swap out element units if there is a next time. Maybe the next time we buy new towels. It only takes few minutes to remove the front lower panel and unplug two wires, remove two screws and the element assembly with both the fuse and the thermostat are out. It is easy to replace the fuse with the element assembly in your hands and in good light.

Based on my research, the thermal fuse could be blown out so I tested it and it was. I've replaced the thermal fuse, high-limit thermostat and cycling thermostat. bam! it's up and running again. I'd highly recommended ordering your parts thru PartSeclect..the order was easy and shipping is quick. Thanks

took off lower front panel was able to reach all parts ...all parts i ordered were perfect matches........

I opened the front panel and removed the heating element from the rear of the dryer by removing the two screws that held it in place, and slid the element out. using a mulitester I checked the High limit Fuse and it was not working.I ordered the part and replaced it. Everything worked great for two days and the dryer stopped heating again. My brother asked if I had replaced the thermostat because something burned out the fuse. He was right. I ordered both parts and replaced them. Every thing is working just fine. Save some money and time by replacing both parts at the same time.