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Had multiple problems, inside lights were very dim, water dispenser did not work, ice dispense motor would not work. Freezer temp and fridge temp did maintain temp, but slow to cool if doors kept open too long.
Removed access panel to expose circuit board with nut driver. Pulled board out, it just snaps into place, unplug connectors and plugged onto new circuit board. All plugs are different so you can't mix them up. Snapped new board in place and re installed access panel. Make sure you unplug refrigerator before removing the access panel.
First, I turned off the water supply line to the refrigerator from the house at the wall and unplugged the power cord. Secondly, I removed the small screws that hold the piece of cardboard over the opening in the lower left corner (rear of the refrigerator) by the compressor. Thirdlyl, I removed the other end of the water line where it attaches to the water valve with an adjustable end wrench. Then I removed the small screw that holds the double water outlet valves to the refrigerator frame. I then removed the water valve by pulling it out of the rear of the refrigerator, unplugged the electrical connections, and cut the water lines where they enter the valves. I then plugged the electrical connectors into the new valves and pushed the hoses into their respective openings. These are one-way connectors - once you push them in (firmly) they will not leak or come back out. All I did then was replace the valve and secure it with the one little screw and then replace the cardboard piece onto the rear of the refrigerator. Don't forget to turn the water supply back on. That's it!!
Shut off water supply. Unplugged refrigerator. Removed cover. (6 screws -- nutdriver will come in handy). Removed screw securing water valve to frame (again the nutdriver). Unplugged red and white power connectors to solenoids. Using channel locks, loosened nut holding main water supply to valve and removed. Depressed compression fittings to valve and pulled out plastic water lines that supply water dispenser and ice maker. Reconnected main water supply to new part. Pushed both water lines into respective fittings of new part. Reconnected power supply to solenoids. Attached new part to frame with screw. Replaced back cover. Turned water supply back on. Plugged refrig. back in. Problem solved! Savings = $300!
pulled out refer. found leak at corner lower back, pulled off lower cover. found valve for icemaker leaking. looked in owners/inst guide, pulled up on computer, identified part, called, order overnight part. recieved part & installed, repair complete & successful.
Replaced both temp sensors worked good for 2 days then began freezing food. Looked into it further on line. Found small motorized door broken that controls the cold air from the freezer
Very simple. Remove one screw and carefully pull the sensor until you see the connection point. Remove the old one and snap the new one in and guide the wire back and reassemble the screw. Be sure to remove the oven door for easy access.
I pulled-out & unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the screws to gain access through the lower back panel. The water valve is on the left side as I face the back of the fridge. It has one screw holding it to the frame of the fridge. Once it is free, the main water hose is unscrewed and the two out-let lines were pulled-out. If your valve was not ruined prior to this, it is ruined now, as the lines will not re-seat. Then everything is done in reverse order. I did cut 1/2 inch off of the two lines so that they reseat into the new valve. Just push into the valve and they are good.
Ice maker inlet tube was freezing up, and eventually the icemaker overfilled and completely froze up
After lots of research online, i narrowed my problem down to be the double outlet water valve, behind the fridge. My biggest problem was getting the refridgerator out of its spot, but after that it was pretty simple to change. I took the cover off the bottom, in the back of the fridge, then i removed the inlet waterline (after i turned off the water supply to the fridge). After that i removed the screw that holds the valve to the framework. Now i pulled off the two other waterlines from the old valve and moved them, one at a time, over to the new valve, along with the wire harness. The rest of the instalation was reverse order. Simple fix that im glad i didn't pay an expert to do!
Background: My refrigerator was part of the class action law suit back in 2006. As a result both doors, the auger in the ice maker and a heating element in the freezer were all replaced.
Problem this time: Water was not dispensing.
Solution: Replaced the double outlet water valve in the back lower left portion of the refergerator. Water was coming into it from the water filter hose, but not coming out of it when the water dispenser in the front was engaged.
Further, I found that the coils in the back of the freezer were iced up and I therefore defrosted them with a heater. Thus, the original problem encountered with the law suit, did not get fixed by simply replacing the doors. That problem is still there. I think the defroster/heating element in the freezer is again not working.
However, I do now have water flowing again and the installation was, as others have described, very easy. Thanks for the online help.
Turn off the water. Unplug the refrigerator Take the back off of the refrigerator use socket wrenchs to undo and take off the water valve in the lower left corner of refrigerator. Pull out and disconnect electrical connections Pull out the 2 water tubes one for ice and 1 for water-white is water and black is ice. install the new valve and connect the water and ice back in the new unit connect the two power cords and reattach unit to the frame Turn water on and check for leaks. If no leaks put back on refrigerator and plug in. Wait 30 min to an hour for water to begin to flow back into the unit.
had to remove the oven from the wall. once i realized that i had to take the side wall brackets off before removing the oven it was quite easy. then just had to remove oven door and slide the unit onto a chair while replacing the sensor. put it all back in and the wife was so happy to have her oven back she made me a batch of brownies. yum.
Moved refrigerator out from wall, unplugged from electric, removed plate at bottom back with 1/4 nut driver, turned incoming water valve off, disconnected water line from water valve on refrigerator, removed mounting screw, remove water lines from valve and electrical plugs, set old valve aside and replace with new valve, reconnecting water lines and electrical plugs then remount bracket, reconnect water line from source, open water valve and check for leaks, replugged refrigerator and depressed the door button to check to see if working. It worked and there was not any leaks. Replaced back plate and placed refrigerator against wall. Job completed.
This door required a lot more screws to be removed in order to remove the inside window assembly. I counted a total of 19 screws. That is why the estimated time is 30-60 minutes.
- remove door from range following the basic guide to removing any range door. - place door on work surface with the outside facing down. - remove three 1/4 socket screws from bottom and two star screws on top. - Flip door over, remove outer door panel and set aside. - There will be a separate pane of glass that needs to be removed. Remove 1/4 socket screws holding glass and set aside. - Slide door over your work surface edge so you can remove the star screws holding the door hinges (from underneath). You could flip the door over but the door would have to be flipped back once the hinges were removed. - Remove the remaining 1/4 screws holding the aluminum shielding. - Remove the shielding being careful not to disturb the insulation around the window. - Remove the damaged window. Take note of the writing and orientation on the aluminum window frame. (upper right if hinges were on the bottom) - Set the new window in its place. - Reverse the process by replacing the aluminum shield, hinges, than internal glass pane. - Set outer door on top and holding everything together, flip door. - Tighten the two star screws on top and the three 1/4 socket screws on the bottom. - Replace door. Don't forget to lift up those hinge tabs before trying to close the door. All done. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.
