YMHWE201YW00 Maytag - Instructions

I thought there were just two screws to do the replacement. However, it is necessary to remove the entire plastic outside cover to accomplish this task. There are several screws on the inside of the door, some attach the door to the hinge. Check your manual to determine witch these are. What I ended up doing was completely removing all screws and the door. reassembling was a bit difficult but I got the job done.

one note, remember which screws came from which holes as they are close in size but a little different.

Removed top lid (only to be able to remove pressure sensor hose easily). Removed hose clamps and tied the ends together in order to keep in loose position. Then squeezed the damaged hose up between sidewall and tub to remove pressure sensor rubber pipe. Installed Hose with clamps tied in the loose position with thin wire. Attached the pressure sensor pipe. Loosened the thin wire holding clamps loose. Tested for leaks by running washer. Leak repaired.

Removed top and front lower panels remove door panel.Remove ring from boot seal don’t damage seal.Replace hose,reassemble.Job is a lot easier if you purchase tool to re-install door ring seal.Tool is available from several sites on the net.

Boyfriend followed directions and YouTube and I’m sooooo grateful!! My door shuts easily.. I love my machine and my man with your directives and your parts made my magic happen!!

After further investigation I realized that the original dispenser hose from the soap bin to the inner tip was the cause of the leak. Before this repair, I replaced the bellows. And as part of that replacement process you have to remove the washer dispenser hose from the inner tub so that I could complete the bellows installation. However when I put everything back together the old washer dispenser hose was leaking terribly. This was fixed easily with a new hose and an 1-1 3/4 inch hose clamp. I found an installation video that allows you to come from the top down to replace this hose but for my model of washer and because the drier was stacked on top, I took apart the front of the washer since I learned from a different video how to do this in order to install the bellows. No more leaking at all with the new hose.

After I received the part I removed the top panel of the washer. I then located the position of the old part. I proceeded to remove electrical connector and installed the new one which required no tools. Just to clear the water line, I blew into to it just to sure line is clear then reattached. That easy. Thanks Part Select.

Ordered a new one. It was here on the second day. Lined it up, gave it a slight hit to snap it in place and I was ready to go. Didn't even miss a laundry day. I'm 70 years old and I had no problem doing the repair.

Replaced each hose. Did discover that either hose can be used for hot or cold water lines. No longer required to label hot and cold replacement hoses.

Shocks are the #1 recommendation for this problem, but they were not the solution. The problem turned out to be broken weld in the stainless tub. Three of the shocks can be replaced from the front, the one under the motor can only be accessed from the back of the machine, which means it has to be pulled out away from the wall. Taking the old ones out is kind of a pain, they don't twist off easily and there is little room to use tool. Putting the new ones in is easy, they just twist into place.

This was an easy fix . PartSelect was quick and had all the info I needed to repair my washer. Plus shipping was super fast. Thanks

Took less than 5 minutes to replace, So Happy;-)

Turn off water and power. Pull top off first, then bottom front kick plate. Take all the screws out of the soap tray. Disconnect the front panel from the controller, then the upper front panel comes off, but be careful with it as it is plastic tabbed. Pull upper metal support brace off. Detach the door lock BEFORE you pull the door off (two torx screws). Take a flat head screwdriver and release the spring holding the bellows to the front door/panel, then fold bellows into washer a bit. Remove front door/panel. Back bellows clamp is Phillips, loosen and remove bellows. reverse steps to put back together, but run machine in rinse/spin with top and front lower kick panel off to make sure of no leaks. Also good time to check pump lint screen for junk in it too.

Followed instructions from a You Tube video. I'd recently lost my job and money is tight and I thought we could save money doing it myself. By watching the video and ordering parts from you we were able to save $500 between parts and labor. Thanks

First unplug the washer. Make sure and drain washer completely. If not drained remove front panel , Remove 2.5 inch Plastic drain cover which has a catch bin on it. This will allow it to drain the washer. Put pan underneath to catch the water. Tip washer back and prop up with something 6 inches tall to get to the screws underneath. A cement block would work well. Use pliers to squeeze hose clamp together to remove the Hoses. Gently lift up The flip down cover Over the top of the wire harness Push in the tab on the wire harness, Gently pull back on the wire harness. Remove two mountings screws from the bottom of the washer. Slide the whole pump housing to the right and Lift up. Now the pump is been removed. Inspect inside the hoses For Debrie. Remove anything that is left in the hoses. Reinstall the pump in reverse order from the way you took it off. Leave front panel off Make sure all hoses and wire harness are hooked up. Run wash cycle to make sure there are no leaks. Do not put hands in while running. If no leaks replace front panel. Not sure if this is the right way But this is the way we did it and it worked well. Washer runs quieter now than it did when we got it

other than needing a new type of screw driver (not philips or flat head, but rather a starfish looking thing), the replacement was simple. took 5 minutes (after finding the correct driver)