YMET3800TW0 Whirlpool Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Unplug from the wall ,remove upper back panel ( watch out for the grounding wire screwed to the panel), pulled off front knob, then twist and pull the switch out. Unplug the burned out switch, plugged in the new one. Re-assembled what I took apart, plugged her up and dried the load that was in the washer. Note: if yours is burned out due to house power surge make sure the timer is working after you replace the switch, you might need one of thoes too.

Removed the gearbox from the drum and removed the direct drive motor from the gearbox. Disassembled gearbox and drained gear oil. Rebuilt the neutral drive assembly with the ordered parts. Cleaned sealing surfaces. Filled gearbox with new gear oil. Sealed and re-installed the top cover to the gearbox. Reattached motor and then reinstalled assembly to drum and clutch (installed new clutch lining at this time as well).

Tilted washer onto its back and removed the "cardboard" bottom sound absorption cover (2 sheet metal screws). This provides access to the pump that is located on top of the motor. Slid off each of the 2 clamps that secure the two drain hoses using slip joint pliers. Then popped loose the 2 metal holddown bracket clamps that secure the pump housing to the motor.
The next step gave me a real fit... the pump housing is supposed to just lift off the motor shaft with little effort but mine was a bear. No matter how much I pulled and tugged, it didn't want to budge. Because the motor assembly is mounted on a semi-moveable suspension, when I grabbed the pump and pulled, the whole motor assembly tended to move too. I eventually had to resort to using 2 large flat blade screwdrivers to pry the pump off ... CAUTION!!! Be careful not to put too much force because you can dent the motor shaft grease housing (which I did). Fortunately, I didn't dent it enough to poke a hole in it but it was deformed...
And the reason it didn't want to come off easily was - the shaft had been getting wet which caused some rusting/pitting of the shaft. Although the pump housing is all plastic, the shaft was rusted tight on it. It did come off after much tugging and prying. Otherwise this would be a very easy repair.
Put the new pump in place but it wouldn't go on the shaft until I took some sandpaper and removed as much of the rust as I could. I put a little grease (vaseline) on the motor shaft and pump housing connection to make it easier to slip on. Aligned the motor shaft and pump housing - it is keyed (meaning it only goes on one way due to the shape of the motor shaft). Once keyed on properly, it slid down easily. Reattached the 2 metal holdown brackets and reattached the 2 drain hoses. Replaced the bottom cover.
I did not encounter very much water in the hoses but be advised there can be enough water to get things wet (motor, floor) so you may want to have a small container to get as much water out of the hoses. Also having towels to catch any water remaining in the pump housing so it doesn't end up spilling onto the motor (a bad thing). Of course one has to UNPLUG the electrical cord BEFORE beginning this repair! Also you will most certainly need to shut off the incoming water lines and disconnect the hoses to allow you to move the washer to a position that makes it easy to get to bottom.
That's all I can think of... a simple repair that should go quick if the motor shaft isn't rusted on!
Good Luck...

P.S. I figured the drain pump was leaking AFTER I removed the bottom cover and looked for water evidence here and there. Suspected the pump but couldn't be sure until I set the washer back up normally and ran a cycle. Using a mirror I checked to see where the drips were coming from.

The door had always opened with the wrong swing and it wasn't til I needed to repair this that I noticed you could change the swing. I changed the swing of the door and then noticed that the clip was included on both sides so i did not need to repair the catch. I still have the part so when it breaks again, I can just pop it in.

First, I removed two screws holding the bottom fiberboard panel in place, and the panel, to gain access to the motor, transmission, and pump. Unfortunately, I had the machine tilted to the front, and didn't have room to release the pump. I had to set the machine back up, and get manuvered around so I could lay it on it's back (I was working in the confines of a small laundry room). Once on it's back, I released the two clips holding the pump with a flat head screwdriver, lifted it up and out of the way without having to disconnect any of the piping, then I released the two clips holding the motor, again with a flathead screwdriver, disconnected the wiring plugs, and capacitor wires, then lifted the motor up and out of the machine. I then removed the two bolts holding the motor mounting plate to the transmission. Then, again using a large flat head screwdriver, I pried the transmission coupling half off the transmission shaft, I had to work it up, while turning the shaft, and then the same for the motor half. I then wiped off both shafts, and gently tapped both coupling halves back onto the shafts,
( this is easier using a socket that is just large enough to go over the shafts). Then I reinstalled the motor mounting plate, slipped the rubber coupling onto the transmission coupling half, lifted the motor into place, and rotated from the pump end to line up with the remaining holes on the rubber coupling. I then reinstalled the clips used to hold the motor in place, reinstallation only took thumb pressure to snap back into place, then, I reinstalled the pump, using the same method, and reconnected the wiring plugs and copacitor leads. Lastly, I reinstalled the fiberboard panel into the bottom, and set the machine upright, slid back into place, and reconnected the hoses and electrical, and tested the machine. Worked perfectly.
In actually took longer to disconnect the machine, and get it out and back in, than it did to replace the coupling.

First I removed the fabric softener container and set it aside. Below that, there is a plastic cover with a rubber gasket that distributes the fabric softener. I also just pulled that out and set it aside. Below that was an 11mm bolt that attached the upper and lower agitator to the drive mechanisim. The lower agitator is attached directly to the shaft and that was working properly so I knew it was't a motor or drive issue. Until it broke, the top half of the agitator sat still for a second, then it turned clockwise with the lower agitator. This helped push the clothes down to the lower part to be circulated throughout the wash cycle. Well, now the upper agitator just sat there, like it wasn't attached to anything at all. Below the aforementioned plastic cover with the rubber gasket, I found a part that had 4 plastic "teeth" that moved in and out, releasing and grabbing the inside of the upper agitator, respectively. Over time, these teeth wore down and stopped "grabbing" the ridges on the inner part of the upper agitator, causing it to stop turning with the lower agitator. I removed the 11mm bolt and tried to seperate the upper agitator from the lower agitator to replace the teeth. This part was kind of tough to get out because the plastic clips that held it in were deformed. I just had to pull hard and eventually it came apart. In the process, I broke two of the clips. I wasn't really concerned because the 11mm bolt holds everything in place anyway. After that I just swapped out the worn teeth with the new ones. I put it back together in the opposide order I took it apart and viola....good as new. And it only cost me $15 bucks.

I have to admit that before attempting to replace the clutch, I had no clue how to do it. With the help of the diagram of the parts, I was able to access from the internet at PartSelect.com. I felt comfortable enough to attempt the repair because the diagram was easy to read and accurate.

Everything had to be accessed from the bottom of the machine. I tipped the machine backwards enough get under it. To replace the clutch, I had to remove the motor drive. To do so, I disconnected the electrial to the drive motor by simply unconnecting the quick connect harness. I then removed two screws from the two retainer brackets located one on top and one on the bottom. Once this was done the motor drive simply dropped down. I then removed the three bolts holding the gear case to the tub. I had to remove one bolt from inside the tub underneath the fabric softner dispenser. Once this was done the gear case slid out. The clutch sit on top of the gear case. I then simply removed the old clutch and installed the new clutch by reversing the process. The only real difficulty that I had was with the retainer ring. Once done, I reinstalled the gear case and motor drive. I would suggest replacing the direct-drive coupling at this time. I had earlier replaced the coupling hoping to solve the problem. The coupling was redesigned and is more likely to last longer than the orginal coupling.

I did NOT have to repair the latch on the actual door, just the small metal piece that it hooks on (on the dryer itself) and it took about 10 seconds to.....do it myself. Just used needle nose pliers so squeeze the piece together and fit it in. thanks

Step 1) Take off top cap with a flat head screw driver.

2) unscrew bolt (may need extension as it may be deep in the agitator.)

3) Take upper agitator off.

4) remove clog retainer and clogs.

5) insert new clogs and re-assemble.

total time 10 to 15 min.

Remove the washing machine cabinet. Use a large flat head screwdriver to pry/wedge the tub suspension apart and gain access to the pad locations one at a time. My old pads were completely gone, so there was no need to remove them. Clip the new pads into place and re-install the cabinet.

This completely solved the violent chaking problem. There was no need to replace springs.

I removed the top cover and then the back cover, released the belt tensioner and removed the drive belt. Then slid the tub out of the unit and onto the back dack. Sanded the remnents of the old seal off. Wiped the tub lip with laquer thinner and applied the "fast" drying glue supplied with the kit. Installed the seal and re-assembled the unit...works fine

I first watched the youTube vidio on yhe PartSelect web site. After getting a visual of the repair, I decided to tackle the job with a better understanding and knew the repair was easy to purform. First I took the two screws out of the contrl panel on top of the washer, rolled the panel back to expose the clips that hold the metal cabinet to the back panel of the washer. After removing the cabinet I was ready to lay the washer on it's back and had a clear view of the pump, motor and clutch... I was able to easly identify these parts because I took time to watch the video. Using a flat head screwdriver I removed the clips that hold the pump to the motor... Without disconnecting the hoses connected to the pump I pushed the pump to the side and out of the way. This further exposed the motor. Using the flat head screwdriver, I removed the clips holding the motor to the transmission (they just snap off like they did on the pump). The motor was now ready to be removed from the transmission ( it just lifts off) before removing it I disconnected the power suply wire from the motor... Now the motor can be completely removed. I identified the drive couupler 1/2 was on the motor shaft the other 1/2 was on the transmission shaft.. On both halfs the splines were broken. I removed the old broken drive coupler. Since I already had the machine so far apart i figured i would replace the clutch also. Using a deep socket ratchet wit an extention I removed the agator... I then unbolted the transmission (only three bolts) I gentely pulled the transmission and shaft out of the bottom of the washer. This exposed the clutc assembly, I removed the clutc ( which wasn't bad or wore by the way) and replaced it.... I figured I had it and I was this far into the repair why not. After relpasingvthe clutch, I slid the shaft and transmission back into place tightened the bolts and that was done. I then slid/replaced the drive coupler... Placing one half on the motor shaft the other on the transmission shaft, placed the rubber bushing on the oneside of the plastic drive coupler. And mounted the motor back on the transmission utilizing the clips I took off earlier. Once the motor was in place I installed the waterpump fastened by the clips. Flipped yhe washer up, replaced the cabinet... Tightened down the the control panel and was ready to do some wash..: the washer runs perfect now and I saved myself about $700.00. It was allot easier than I thought it would be... Watching the youTube video is the secret to success. The washer is running like the day I bought it new... All for only 53.00. Hats off to everyone at PartsSelect for going above and beyond. Regards, ~ Michael

Disconnected the bracket screws that held the suspension springs in place - fed new springs into bracket and reattached. Local repairman told me that springs dont wear out, they break - wrong, they do lose their tension and thereby lose the ability to counterbalance the spinning load. Washing machine now spins like new - no wobble or shake.

use screwdriver topry plastic out plyers to pull out metal latch put new parts in

1) Disconnected power cord from wall. 2) Disconnected vent hose from back of dryer. 3)Removed dryer rear panel. 4)Disengaged tension spring on idle wheel arm. 5) Removed worn idle wheel. 6)Installed new Idler wheel assembly. 7) Vacuumed dust from rear of dryer (optional, recommended). 8) Reinstalled rear cover, vent hose and power cord. Easy repair 15-30