YMEDZ600TW2 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

After ordering the part, I read the information left by other users. I used a screw driver to pop out the piece, and then put the new latch in the opening. A gentle pop with the side of my hand, and the door latch went right into place. Who knew there was a second door latch on the other side that could've been used?

Searched Internet for Dryer Model and problem, purchased the three items listed used in the heater element - long as I was replacing parts I was going to do them all...Unplug Dryer, Removed Back and Front Access panels using power driver with nut socket adapter... Lots of Dust Build Up in lower section of dryer, cleaned by hand, then vacuumed and the blew out with air from small compressor. Removed heater assembly and replaced All Three Electrical components, (Heater coil, High Limit, Thermal Fuse) Reinstalled heater unit and then closed up unit back panel and front panel. Plugged in, ran dryer front panel diagnostics - no errors reported, test dryer - dryer vent tube is now warm to the touch - the dryer working again.... (Suspected Bad Item: Thermal Fuse) Total repair time once parts in hand was about two hours, most time was spent cleaning out lint and dust to insure no fire hazard present

unscrew the old part, slip it out, slip in the new part and replace the screws

Followed standard instructions regarding removal of top first & then the front panels. Realized after following this process that I did not have to remove top, but only one of front panels to obtain access to moisture sensor. If I have to do this again, the replacement of sensor will be much easier.

Removed the top panel of the dryer via a couple of screws from the rear. Remove the rear panel swing it open light a door to the right, minding the electrical connections. Removed the belt from the pulley, removed the Tri-ring from the shaft and slid the pulley off of the shaft. The shaft was slightly rusted so I used a steel brush and brake cleaner to clean it up, placed the new gasket, pulley, and tri-ring on, replaced the belt, and put the panels back into place. As the dryer is about 7 years old, also removed the front lower panel and cleaned out unit which had quite a bit of accumulated dust and glitter especially in the vent lines. (3 girls live here). Pretty easy, most screws remove with just the one tool.

remove&replace

Disconnected power from dryer (safety first)! Removed bottom front panel (two screws hold it in place). Then remove the two screws that hold the sheet-metal bracket/guard in place in front of the heating element. Disconnect the two wires from the heating element terminal (white stripe wire is on top, remember for re-install purposes). Remove screw that holds heating element in place. Remove heating element from the vent housing. NOTE: The old heating element will be difficult to remove, it's a tight fit AND there's a spring on its' side that holds it tightly in place...beware that the edges are sharp; I used a pair of pliers to pull the element out in order to protect my hands. Once the old element is out, put the new one back in its' place...again watch out the edges are sharp and the element fits tightly into the vent, so if you have mechanics gloves now's the time to put them on to protect your hands, as the edges of the vent and element are sharp. Once the element is into place, secure into place with screw on left side, re-attach wires (white stripe on top terminal), put the guard back into place, close up the bottom panel, and power up.

removed front lower panel and removed 2 hex screws 1/4" on front of heater tube support unplugged 2 wires hooked to heating element and 1 hex screw on side of tube that secures element and pulled the element out with pliers it comes out a little hard and then slid new element in and put it back together easy fix

Dryer is on a pedestal. Opened drawer and removed two 1/4 inch screws on bottom panel of dryer front. Panel drops down and exposes the dryer exhaust where thermistor is located. Removed two spade connector wires and removed two 1/4 inch screws. Installed new thermistor and reversed procedure. For the moisture sensors I used a phillps screwdriver and stuck my head in the dryer and removed the lint screen assembly (3 screws). Removed the spade wire connectors and used a straight blade screw driver to remove the moisture sensor. Installed the new sensor and re-installed the lint screen assembly in the reverse of removal. All very easy - just took 30-45 minutes total.

Watched steve on the video on changing the thermistor a couple times, it appeared to be straight forward replacement. Unplugged the dryer. . . Went through the front, my lent filter slides in and out from the lid so I had too remove two extra screws to detach it. After opening up the front it became very apparent my thermistor was not located in the same location as the one in the video. Dryer needed a cleaning (lint/dust) so I released the idler pully tension on the drum belt and went ahead and removed the drum/belt and shop vac/ blew with compressed air and shop vac once again. Gave my dryer a much needed cleaning since I had it apart. Put everything back together in about 20 mins. Pulled the dryer away from the wall and removed rear cover and presto there it was right next to the dryer air outlet. Replaced thermistor and replaced back cover, inspected out flex hose on dryer outlet, I clean it out (flex) yearly to prevent problems. Reattached flex on both ends, re-positioned dryer, plugged back in, and works great! Definitely fixed my problem. . . Replacing the drum by myself was a bit difficult. Still do able (there's a video on that also. . )

My front- loading dryer is 4 years old and lint screen felt liner never lasted long without falling out. When I received my Part Select I knew the quality surpasses manufacture screen. It is so much better and we are your new customers forever Thank you Cheryl

I purchased a new heating element installed and stil had same problem. I order the 2 sensor (kit) located in same area and that took care of problem. I should have purcahsed all at same time like someone else told us in the website. Thanks parts select for the very fast delivery

UNPLUG UNIT FIRST!!! Removed back cover. Make sure to note not all screws hold the back cover by closely observing the screw. Take a picture of the belt routing before removing from the idler pulley. Use headlamp or flashlight to light up pulley area. Remove belt from idler pulley by pushing idler assembly towards the right. Use small screwdriver to remove the existing pulley by prying off the existing tri-ring from the back of the pulley. You may have to "feel" the ring since it in facing away from you. Once tri-ring is removed, slide off old pulley and gasket or old second tri-ring. Replace with gasket first, then pulley then tri-ring. Reroute belt. Use picture if needed. Replace back cover.

Just took the old one out and slipped the new one in! That's it! That easy. Thank you!

It was all put together... I just switched them!