YMED5900TW1 Dryer - Instructions

I reviewed the on-line video (which was very good by the way) and read the instructions that came with the thermal cut-off kit. Replacement of the upper thermostat was a piece of cake, very straight-forward; just remove the old & replace with the new. The instructions for replacing the lower thermostat were a little confusing because my dryer did not have the orange wire coming from the wiring harness, but after looking carefully at the old thermostat and how it was connected, I finally figured out how the jumper wire was to be connected and successfully installed the lower unit. Bottom line...the dryer works like new. Much cheaper than calling the repairman! Thanks PartSelect!

I watched to replacement video from the website and followed. I did use the tip of a small knife to get the connector to come loose on the old switch. It was a really easy repair.

What a pain in the butt to route the belt thru the tensioner! There's room for only one hand in there. The guys who do this for a living must have some secret. My solution was to drill a 3/16 hole thru the side, make a j-hook from 8-32 threaded rod, use that and a wing nut to pre-load the tensioner, route the belt, then slowly back off the wing nut until the belt was tight. It works. . . .

Replaced the part. It just slid right in to the appropriate space on the dryer.

Pop off the top , Then one screw holds each side . slide belt around drum and then preload tensioner as per instructions . Simple!

After reviewing a variety of online instructional videos I was able to figure out how to remove the top ("hood") panel of dryer to access the door switch. Once I had access the switch was relatively simple to replace.

Watched steve on the video on changing the thermistor a couple times, it appeared to be straight forward replacement. Unplugged the dryer. . . Went through the front, my lent filter slides in and out from the lid so I had too remove two extra screws to detach it. After opening up the front it became very apparent my thermistor was not located in the same location as the one in the video. Dryer needed a cleaning (lint/dust) so I released the idler pully tension on the drum belt and went ahead and removed the drum/belt and shop vac/ blew with compressed air and shop vac once again. Gave my dryer a much needed cleaning since I had it apart. Put everything back together in about 20 mins. Pulled the dryer away from the wall and removed rear cover and presto there it was right next to the dryer air outlet. Replaced thermistor and replaced back cover, inspected out flex hose on dryer outlet, I clean it out (flex) yearly to prevent problems. Reattached flex on both ends, re-positioned dryer, plugged back in, and works great! Definitely fixed my problem. . . Replacing the drum by myself was a bit difficult. Still do able (there's a video on that also. . )

I am a female, not a handy man. But by following the repair man on the video, it was easy. I also went ahead and installed the maintance kit. The maintance kit was recommended when I ordered the parts. I followed by maintaining the washer.

I just followed the instructions on the video. The only helpful addition I have...make sure the power is off before you start. I did get that point when the video said to turn the power back on, at the end of the video. In all...a great experience and I saved more than $200.00 doing it myself, with the help of the FANTASTIC web site at PartSelect!

Watched the repair video once, it was real informative and easy to follow. The repair took about 30 minutes to complete. The video went step by step. Had no problems what so ever. Made the reapir and turned the dryer on and let it run for a few minutes and once again had all the heat I needed to make it operate correctley. I recomend that once you see your dryer is not dring your clothes like it once did, replace these parts. I let this go on for a year thinking my wife was putting way to many clothes in the dryer. It was not that at all. No telling how much money we could have saved on our electric bill by replacing these parts sooner. $30 dollars for the parts, I bet we spent that much a week on extra drying cycles. What used to take 2-3 cycles to dry now only takes one cycle. Runs just like it did when we purchased it.I will buy from this site again, easy to use all the information you need to make the repair and prompt shipping. Awesome site.

I follow the instructions from the video sent to me with the email to tell me my new belt was shipped. Made the whole job go a easy as could be. Parts Select made fixing my dryer so simple and I also got the belt within 2 days. I recommend buying parts only from you! Glenn

took out the fabric softener cup pull out diaphram unscrewed the bolt pull out the cup replaced with new parts I want to thank you for your fast service. it is awesome. i will recommend you to all my friends.

remove 2 screws from lint vent, use putty knife to remove top op dryer, remove 2 screws holding switch.

After I received the new belt I un-plugged the electric cord and shut off the gas supply. I pulled the dryer about 10 inches away from the wall to remove the vent duct from the back of the dryer. Used the putty knife to release the clips on bottom front panel and a screw driver to pop the front of the top at the left side and right side, removed the two Phillips head screws under the lint door, then lifted the top to the vertical position. Loosened the hex head screws at the bottom of the upper front panel (don't take them out). At the top back side of the front panel, pull off the electrical wires from the door interlock switch and pull the retainer holding the wires to the front panel (don't take the plastic clip from the wires.) Place some wood blocks to support the drum at the front of the drum. Use the nut driver to remove the two screws on the inside at the top of the front panel. Disconnect the two springs that hold the door closed. Lift the panel from the two loosened nuts at the bottom and pull it away from the drum and let the drum settle on the blocks of wood to support it. Place the new belt around the drum lining it up where the old belt left its mark around the drum with the grooved surface facing the drum. Replace the front upper panel with the door to engage to two tabs on the screws you left at the bottom. Lift the drum so that it engages with the opening in the front panel. In case where the drum had dropped too far, use the putty knife to engage the felt flange at the rear of the drum with the rear cabinet flange. Reinstall the two screws at the top that you had removed. Reconnect the two wires at the interlock switch and snap the clip with the wires to the flange of the upper front panel. Replace the door springs on the hinge extensions to the flange at the bottom of the cabinet. Set the Idler pulley assembly into the cabinet floor sliding the end tab into the slot and the two tabs fit into the holes in the floor. Pull a loop of the belt under the idler pulley and then pull it toward the motor pulley. You might use the shaft of your Phillips screw driver instead of you fingers to get it around the pulley on the motor shaft. Turn the drum by had for several complete turns to ensure that the belt lines up on the drum and that the drum isn't binding on the back or front seals. Close the top, snapping onto the top of the cabinet. Plug the dryer into the electric outlet and set the timer to Fluff Air range and push the start button with the door closed. The drum should be turning smoothly. Open the door and all should stop. Reconnect the Vent and move the dryer back to its former position. Turn gas supply on but do not start the dryer. Check for gas leaks. If you find a leak in either at connectors or the flexible connecter call a qualified contractor to replace the flex connecter. Otherwise you can then set for one of the dryer settings and push the start button and observe the burner through the lower panel to see that the igniter is lighting up and finally the gas turns on and a decent blue flam is burning in the combustion tube. Open the dryer door and the flame should cut off and the drum stop turning. You are ready to set the bottom panel. Set the panel on the two lower tabs and close it upward until the snaps lock it in position. Job Done

Diagnose the problem. Is it the motor ? Is it the belt ? Order the correct repair kit, use name brand parts to ensure reliability. READ THE SUPPLIED DIRECTIONS. You can use a small wood shim or wedge at the top front corners to open the top . Use a 5/16" socket to remove the 2 screws at the top outside corners. Lift the front panel straight up, supporting the drum as you lift it off. Remove the drum, taking it straight out the front. Install the new drum rollers, install the idler, and then the belt around the drum. Install the drum on the rear rollers, make sure the seal is not folded under. Push the drum back against the seal flange, support the front of the drum with your right (or left ) hand, and sit the front panel on the lower pins, and gently push the front panel to the sidewalls. Feed the belt through the idler and around the motor pulley. This job is easily performed in about 20 minutes. Clean the interior while replacing the belt/idler and drum rollers. With the top lifted, after assembly, test run the dryer to make sure there are no "funny noises" after the repair. Watch especially for the white rub strips on the front edge of the drum. They tend to fold over when attaching the front panel. Job done !