YKEMS307GS3 KitchenAid Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

The repair is straight forward. The only complication anyone seems to be having is removing the door ( which is a definate must to do this repair properly). So I would like to add some details about removing the door. The manuel shows the allen wrenches going into what looks like the hinge itself to release it from the oven. This is not the case. The holes that the 5/32 allen wrenches go into are actually behind the hinge itself. I wrapped the allen wrenches with some painter tape to protect the surface of the door and oven from scratching. Then, simply insert the short end of the allen wrenches, one on each side, into the holes behind the hinge. Then as it shows in the manuel, gently close the door. But not all the way. As you get about 80% closed you'll feel resistence. That is the time to grasp the bottom of the door and start to lift it from the bottom, while stablizing it with the other hand holding the handle on the door. The hinge will start to release from the oven as you continue to press it closer to being all the way closed. The hinges will release if you are doing this correctly before the door can be all the way closed.

Hope that helps. Otherwise, once the door is off. Unscrew all the screws...pay special attention to what you are unscrewing and how it all fits together, because you're going to have to put it all back together again. Some of the glass is held in place with clips and some of it is not. Just lay it down flat and be careful to not force anything in or out and you'll find it quite easy.

I removed the bottom gasket retainer , single screw, with a screwdriver. The old gasket just pulls away. I cleaned the area under the old gasket with soap and water. I installed the new gasket whcih easily slips in place with the already installed retainer wires into the pre drilled holes.

Viola. Lokks like new.

I removed the oven door by opening it to the horizontal position and inserting a small allen wrench in the open holes in each hinge. I then closed the door and lifted it free of the oven. I place the door face up on a packing blanket and removed the screws at the top of the door and the screws and clamps at the bottom of the door. I then lifted the outside glass door off the inner metal frame and set it in a safe place. I next removed the bracket holding the two inner pieces of glass and pulled the glass sheets out of the sheet metal holders. I then removed the screws which attached them to the metal door frame. Once the holders were off I removed the broken glass. I cleaned all the glass pieces and reversed the process to finish the repair.

Recieved the part promptly. From looking at the diagrams, we knew the overload thermostat was located on the back of the oven. We removed the screws, brackets, etc, slid the oven out, which for us was fairly easy as it's an under counter oven. Located the thermostat, removed it, replaced the new one, connected two clip wires, replaced the oven, turned the power back on and it works like a champ. Total cost was under 50 bucks.

We had to remove two screws from the bottom of the outer glass door that held two brackets. Those brackets held the glass door in place. Then we had to remove two more layers of glass after that using a screwdriver. Then the inner glass, which was the one broken, we had to use pliers to bend the metal tabs that were holding it in place. We got the new glass in, bent the metal tabs back, returned the other two layers of glass, and then slide the outside glass door back in and returned the two brackets at the bottom. The hardest part was figuring out how to get started. Once we removed those bottom brackets, it was pretty easy after that.

I went online to read the instruction. Started doing it and was done in less than 30minutes. It was easy and the replacement part was inexpensive and got shipped in really fast. I probably would have spent hundreds of dollars if i called a handy man to repair it. THANK YOU VERY MUCH.

Just removed two screws that held the top brackets on, and cleaned out the old broken glass. When the part came it, installed the two top brackets to the glass and then slide the glass into the two bottom brackets and screwed the top brackets in place. Whole job took about 20 minutes.

First, insert pins or screws in the holes at the hinge pivot point. Then lift and pull the door out. Four screws remove the door front(2 top,2 bottom). Two screws remove each hinge. After installing the hinges, put the door front back on. Set the door back in the hinge slots, open the door all the way and remove the factory installed hinge pins and you're finished.

Thanks to those who replied to my intitial distress call...because of them I had the courage to attempt the repair.
First I flipped the main electrica breaker.
then I removed the screws from the main door. The next step was to pop out the pins holding the hinges. I couldn't do that no mater how much WD-40 and lubricant I used, or how hard I tapped center mass.....SO I took all the OTHER components out staring with the side facings. (1 screw right left and 2 for bottom.)
Next I took the screws holding the door together out -- then the two screws holding the clamps on the bottom of the door. At this point I lifted off the the front facing of the door by the handle and placed it with its glass, to the side.

I then had access to the two inside panes of glass. They are secured with a metal plate screwed into the metal of the inner door. When I removed the two screws securing the plate, two plates dropped to the floor and it was fortunate I was holding the glas securly as it two would have dropped.
Next, I cleaned each of tpieces of glass with oven cleaner and set them carefuly to the side.(they were crusted with brown) Lastly I wiggled the broken glass out of the small inner window, working from both the inside and the outside of the window. Becuase I couldn't open out the door.. this was an extrememly time consuming activity..but do-able.

Once the inner glass was in screwed one of the screws o the clamp plate so I could rest the glass while screwing in the second screw. Once screw two was in place I took out the retaining screw and replaceed in with the glass clamped between. Aftern that the tough stuff was done and I just reassmebled all the door parts.

This SHOULD have been much simplier! IF I could have removed the hinge pins as directed.

Anyway, mission acomplished. Oven works fine.
Thanks!

I removed eight screws to disassemble the oven door. I removed the old insulation and the brackets that held class panel in place. I installed the new insulation, tempered glass and reassembled the oven door.

Replacement of the thermal overload safety thermostat very straight forward after sliding unit out, killing power and removing two covers. Tested both old and new and both show continuity (= good). Installed new, restored power and tested for proper operation. Didn't happen. Replaced original and now have new as spare. Now suspect the double line break relay on electronic control board is failed and source of problem. It is common to both elements and immediate before the suspected thermostat in circuit.

Used flat tip screw driver to pry front clip holding glass cover out of position. Pulled out dead bulb and pushed in new one. Slid clip back on glass cover and slid back into place. Simple. .

Removal of the broken glass was easy , and it looked like the new glass just slid back into place. Ordering of the glass was also easy, and it looked like it would work. But, when the glass arrived, it looked liked the new door was exactly 1/2 inch too wide and the handle was 1/2 each off too. There was no where that stated that the glass needs to go in from the bottom up. You must take off the door by lowering it all the way to the floor and lifting the hinges. (See the manual) Once it is off, remove the clips from the bottom. Then put the glass on. The handle has to be turned only one way. So, even though it looks like it could go either way, it doesn't. Turn it over to fit. It was easy once the door and the clips were removed.

No repair - just open the box and put the rack in my oven - voila - repaired!!! BUT let me tell you PartSelect sent the right part at the best price and I received it even ealier than I expected!!! I can DEFINITELY recommend these people and I do that very sparingly!!!! THANX!

Removed the oven door from the oven using the KitchenAid supplied tool to hold the spring in position. There was a hole at the bottom of the hinge and if you insert this KA tool it would keep the hinge from closing completely which allowed you to pull the door away from the oven. Removed the 4 screws that held the front (glass cover) from inside part of the oven door.
Used the pliers to pull the hinge back to remove the KA tool and then unscrewed the 2 screws holding the hinge in place. Did the same on the other side. Installed the hinge into place and re-installed the glass front of the oven door. Place the oven door into the oven and when you open the door completely (down) the 2 holding pins are removed - similar to the KA tool.

Took about 30 minutes from start to finish. Used the parts list (found online) to see what screws I had to unscrew.

Searched online found PartSelect had good price, confirmed over the phone that the hinges were not a set (needed 2). Completed order online and part delivered in 2 days. Have used PartSelect twice for me oven. The Kitchenaid oven is another story - horrible - thank goodness for PartSelect.