YGEW9200LQ0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

replace the burnt fuse.

Dryer is on a pedestal. Opened drawer and removed two 1/4 inch screws on bottom panel of dryer front. Panel drops down and exposes the dryer exhaust where thermistor is located. Removed two spade connector wires and removed two 1/4 inch screws. Installed new thermistor and reversed procedure. For the moisture sensors I used a phillps screwdriver and stuck my head in the dryer and removed the lint screen assembly (3 screws). Removed the spade wire connectors and used a straight blade screw driver to remove the moisture sensor. Installed the new sensor and re-installed the lint screen assembly in the reverse of removal. All very easy - just took 30-45 minutes total.

Watched steve on the video on changing the thermistor a couple times, it appeared to be straight forward replacement. Unplugged the dryer. . . Went through the front, my lent filter slides in and out from the lid so I had too remove two extra screws to detach it. After opening up the front it became very apparent my thermistor was not located in the same location as the one in the video. Dryer needed a cleaning (lint/dust) so I released the idler pully tension on the drum belt and went ahead and removed the drum/belt and shop vac/ blew with compressed air and shop vac once again. Gave my dryer a much needed cleaning since I had it apart. Put everything back together in about 20 mins. Pulled the dryer away from the wall and removed rear cover and presto there it was right next to the dryer air outlet. Replaced thermistor and replaced back cover, inspected out flex hose on dryer outlet, I clean it out (flex) yearly to prevent problems. Reattached flex on both ends, re-positioned dryer, plugged back in, and works great! Definitely fixed my problem. . . Replacing the drum by myself was a bit difficult. Still do able (there's a video on that also. . )

My front- loading dryer is 4 years old and lint screen felt liner never lasted long without falling out. When I received my Part Select I knew the quality surpasses manufacture screen. It is so much better and we are your new customers forever Thank you Cheryl

I purchased a new heating element installed and stil had same problem. I order the 2 sensor (kit) located in same area and that took care of problem. I should have purcahsed all at same time like someone else told us in the website. Thanks parts select for the very fast delivery

UNPLUG UNIT FIRST!!! Removed back cover. Make sure to note not all screws hold the back cover by closely observing the screw. Take a picture of the belt routing before removing from the idler pulley. Use headlamp or flashlight to light up pulley area. Remove belt from idler pulley by pushing idler assembly towards the right. Use small screwdriver to remove the existing pulley by prying off the existing tri-ring from the back of the pulley. You may have to "feel" the ring since it in facing away from you. Once tri-ring is removed, slide off old pulley and gasket or old second tri-ring. Replace with gasket first, then pulley then tri-ring. Reroute belt. Use picture if needed. Replace back cover.

Tool of the back & cross brackets. I did not have to mass with electric panel. I did not have to remove the drum.

Just took the old one out and slipped the new one in! That's it! That easy. Thank you!

I highly recommend the videos on this site for repair information. It wasn't exact for the age/model of my dryer but very close. Remove the top panel and then the control panel. Remove the lower front panel and finally the door and main front panel. Unloop the belt from the motor and remove the drum. I found one of the drum rollers was bad, which was causing my problem, but I replace all 4 rollers, the belt, and the idler wheel. Sounds like it did when it was new! Find the video for your model and watch it!!

It was all put together... I just switched them!

this belt is too thin for the capacity of this dryer.I had only removed the front panel,replaced the belt and immediately the dryer start.

Not a handyman but this was an easy and cheap fix. Now the automatic settings are working and drying much faster. Unplug machine, front panel has 2 spring clips toward the edges that you stick a flat tool into and pull on the panel to open. Pull off the electrical connections from the old sensors by the right side of the lint screen. Needlenose pliers help with the one farther up there. Then just pull the old ones sensors out, stick the new ones in, reconnect the electrical and get ready to live the good life with dry clothes that don't smell musty.

Once I watched a YouTube video showing me how to do the job I ordered the part from you. Am so impressed with your fast shipping and best prices via the Internet. Thank you SO much! The water level switch was easy to install, it ws getting the cover on the washer back on that was hard for me since I am 68 yrs old and have a bad knee. Its why it took me two hours to do what most people could do in 20 minutes.

little more than vedio showed has a see thru door had to tke door off machine then was easy replacement and re install

1) Unplug the dryer. 2) Remove lower front panel, use screw driver to push down then pop the top forward. 3) Heating element is on the right. 1/4 inch nut driver removes front plate and the screws holding the foot in place.4) Remove the two wires connected to the heating element and pull the heater toward yourself 5) Remove the screw next to where the two wires connected to the heater, It takes some effort but it will slide out the heating element. Slide the new element in, put in screw next to terminals, slide heater back into place, put foot screws in, put deflector back on with screw, connect the wires back onto the heating element, put the front cover back on, plug in the dryer and test. It will smell for about a minute being new.