WWXR4100T8AA General Electric Washer - Instructions

I removed the agitator by simply pulling up. I then removed one bolt to get the agitator coupler off. I installed the new coupler, replaced the bolt and slid the agitator back down.

It tooke some time to figure out where the water was leaking. It was from a small hole at the lateral side of the upper third of the drain inlet tube. Removing the hose was easy. Attaching it to the tub with a hose clamp was easy, but attaching the lower end to the pump motor was quite difficult because the spring clamp that had come with the washer was difficult to manipulate. I had to replace it with a band hose clamp.

By the way, the hole in the hose had been caused by rubbing the hose against the drain pipe from the motor to the sink.

I ordered the part on Wednesday didn't think we would be washing any clothes until atleast Monday. The pump came on Friday! Installed it 15-25 minutes(that's taking out the old one too) . As someone stated before the only (little) problem was the spring clamps. Screw the pump in first and then put the Clamps on.

With screwdriver, I removed screws holding old hose in place. Attached new hose and screwed into place.

First I took the bottom of the washer off so that I could get to the pump then I took a socket set to take the pump off. Then I put the new pump on and put the bottom of the washer back together.

Turned off the water and disconnected the water lines. Took of the control panal, only 4 screws and got access to the dual inlet water valve. Device removes with 2 screws and power connectors slide off. Reverse removal and your in business. So easy to do, part was an exact fit. Don't buy a new washer, fix your old one!

replaced clutch assembly. unplug power; turn off water, disconnect hoses from faucet; remove drain hose from drain; shop vac water from basin through drain hose. bungee hoses and cords, relocate to garage, place blocks, lay unit on blocks on back, remove front cover, mark electrical connections, disconnect- move aside, support motor, i used a ratchet strap behind motor around the tub supports, removed nuts from motor mount bolts, release strap, tilt and remove motor, place on plywood, use opposing small pry bars to remove clutch assembly; remove rust from motor shaft, install new clutch, re-install motor, install belt, tighten ratchet strap, to tighen belt, re install mount bolt nuts, reconnect electrical connections, remove strap, clean gunk from washer case floor, double check connections, mount bolts, belt tightness, re-install front cover, re-position washer, reconnect hoses, and power cord, turn on water, open fron cover, check for leaks; run rinse spin cycle to test - confirm no leaks, ops check complete, good to go. total time, including removing repositioon and removing water, about an hour, clutch replacement time about 15 min's.

Pulled agitator off existing agitator coupling. Removed and replaced agitator coupling. Snapped agitator on. One of the easiest appliance repairs I have ever attempted.

Very easy just pull straight up on agitator and remove bolt on coupler. Install new coupler and line up agitator and push down. Done

Remove agitator. Remove coupling. Reinstall new coupling. Reinstall agitator. My only problem was the 7 day delay in getting the part. I expected 2-day delivery.

I pulled on the bottom edges of the agitator, like the video said, until my fingers were numb. Finally, after I got aggravated, I beat the old agitator into a hundred pieces with a hammer and chisel. Then I slid the new agitator into place and gently tapped on the top of it. It snapped into place and has worked like a new one every since.

Viewed video on installation of new belt. A little awkward to get to the rear bolts, but used a wrench with success. Now washer spins correctly. Thank you.

The hardest part is lifting the washer to get a the bottom. Disconnect the power, shut off water. Disconnect hoses and drain hose. Move washer from the wall about 2 feet. Tilt up front of washer. I used 4 12" long 8x8 inch lumber, lift washer….place one on each from corner. Lift again, place 1 more 4x4 on each existing 4x4. Now remove the belt off the 3 pulleys. Use the flat blade screw driver to remove the C clip holding the Pully on the shaft, with the flat bladed screw driver and hammer. Once the C clip is off remove the metal washer, pulley, plastic lock (apart of the bottom of the pulley & the thrush bearing and it's washer. Using the parts supplied (the "new thrush bearing is a bearing and washer combined) replace as you removed it. Thrust bearing, pulley, washer and, c clip. I tapped mine on using the flat bladed screw drive……becareful not to break it (they did supply 2 for me in the repair packet) make sure he c clip is secured. Lower the washer after removing all the tools from under the washer, by reversing the lift sequence. Slide the washer in place. Connect the hoses back up. Plug it in.Reconnect the drain hose, you should be good to go.

The picture of how to depress the clips to remove the front was incorrect. The clips are 4" from the sides not immediately at the sides per the picture. The 4 rubber springs were only part of what was needed for the washer. The old gas dryer was still working. There are two more springs on the bottom of the tub missing not shown on diagrams, so it still sways side to side, bangs around and makes a lot of noise. After putting on the 4 rubber springs, it ran, but probably needed a new clutch also, because it wouldn't spin dry anymore. I ended up spending $2000 for new washer and dryer from Maytag, and throwing out these old machines today.

Ordered new pump on Sunday - replaced on Wednesday. Removed front washer panel with putty knife to release latches. Used pliers to disconnect hose clamps. Lots of paper towels to sop up water in bottom of washer and on floor. Unhooked electrical wires. Socket to remove pump. Reverse actions to replace pump. It's "plug and play"!