WWC8400PBL General Electric Washer - Instructions

Unfortunately, this washer doesn't have a front panel: to get to the belt, removed the back panel. Unfortunately, you can't get to the belt from there either, unless you turn the washing machine upside down. Since the top of the washer is not level (control panel sticks up), the washer needs to be tipped upside down onto something the washer lid rests on, but keeps the control panel off the ground. We used...a sled. Unfortunately, since it didn't drain the last time used, even though we bailed the tub, there was still a fair amount of water that drained out once upside down. This is a heavy washer - took 3 of us tipping it over carefully onto the sled. We unbolted the motor, put in new belt, but needed to put a piece of the shifter arm assembly in place, which came loose. Took 2 sets of hands to accomplish all this. Works now - 2 small loads of laundry done successfully.

I emptied the washer and unplugged it from the wall. Then i pulled it out so I could get behind it. Next unscrewed the water hoses from the washer. Removed the plate holding the water inlet valve by unscrewing 2 screws holding it to the machine (I used Vise Grip/pliers). Note which side of plate goes up/outward so you can put it back on! Removed 2 more screws that hold the valve to the plate. Remove clamp from valve end to disconnect valve from tubing with a screwdriver. I was able to remove the tubing with a twisting motion even though my washer is way over 10 years old. Remove 4 electrical clips from the valve by pulling them out, (REMEMBER the order of the electrical wires!!). Install new valve by doing this in reverse. Then run test cycle, success and saved hundreds of dollars!

i Had washer up side down took puly out and transmission seal out used screw driver install your part add seal on it tap it back in used socket added quartz of gear oil90 as recommended put every thig back it good experience and saved hundreds of dollars for new ones thank so much for ur video and ur technical people on your site

Could smell burning rubber as it tried to spin, so figured it was the belt. No, I did no do it the hard way by removing the screws etc. I threaded the belt on the pulleys on one side, and slowly turned them, using my fingers to force thread the belt into place. Worked like a charm.

I looked up the part on line, ordered it and installed. Veru easy since the part that needed repair was right out in the open.

1. removed old switch 2.wrote model # 3. went to web site found part 4. ordered part 5 part came in 2 days 6. installed part in 15 min. works like new saved over 95.00 thanks ed

Replaced the water control valve (the thing the washer hoses connect to on the back of the washer) There were 3 bolts that had to be removed and once the part was loose, there were four wires attached, I disconnect each wire from the old part and reconnected to the new part at the same time to keep from getting the wires mixed up. Then I bolted the new part back in place...worked perfect. Total cost of repair was less than 30 bucks...

Turns out it wasn't the belt. The belt was fine, worked without water, replaced in washer spot, reconnected water, worked fine. Put clothes in, wouldn't agitate, smelt burning again.

Pulled washer away from wall. Observed problem. Ordered belt. Went on vacation. Cut belt in two to remove. Removed flex coupling to pump. Tried to force new belt onto big sheave, but couldn't really access properly. With help, tipped washer onto its front. Then access permitted forcing new belt onto big sheave by turning (only one direction permitted by gear box). Most of time spent cleaning up oil from gearbox which dripped on floor and splattered on back wall. Wonder how long 15 yr old gearbox will last?

I had to tilt the machine to gain access to the screw that holds the yoke bracket in place. Then I removed the one screw that holds the yoke bracket and removed the yoke and it's cushion. I then had to remove the two friction pads from the old yoke and install them on the new yoke. I was able to re-use the old yoke cushion and after re-assembling the yoke and cushion, I installed this assembly with the one screw. Righted the machine and the job was done.

I own a vacation rental two hours from my home. Our guests
said that there was water coming out from under the washer.
I called our local handyman Lolo who is very bright. He came
over and looked at the washer and saw that a plastic part was leaking. He got on your website and put the part number in and we had our part within two or three days of ordering it.
I was impressed by your having this older part-maybe 15 year old washer,the fast delivery since we didn't do it by rush order. I also didn't have to hire an expensive repair service company. We are back in business thanks to your quick service and delivery. We will use you again in the future for sure.
Best Regards,
Trish W Haskell
Borrego Springs, CA

This was a very easy repair. First I unpluged the 120VAC power cord. Then I turned the water off. Next I opened the hose connections. Then I removed 3 screws from the back which exposed the Inlet Valve. I removed the old valve taking note of where the wires went. Then I installed the new one. It took less than 10 minutes!

Trouble shooting on internet only mentioned worn drive belt as a cause for no spin. No mention of the possibility of a transmission problem burning out the centrifugal clutch. So the drive belt was ordered and when I checked tracking when it was late, I was informed that it was already delivered and signed for by some stranger, jmorris. Later that night I found the package at my door to late to do the repair that night. The next evening the repair was attempted and it was not difficult with the youtube video for guidance. Back together but it did not spin or agitate. On the third run dthrough the procedure I noticed that the clutch was really hot and the notor was not locked. But the big pully would not complete but bart of a revolution and hard stop. The repair was a failure and after the time spent diagnosing the wrong problem with inadiquate trouble shooting on the internet chart and the time ordering and waiting for the second chance delivery. The failed repair delayed to the point that the customer did not have time to do their laundry berore their weekend trip. They will have to get a new machine after waisting so mych time with a less than fully informed repair attempt. The internet trouble shooting help was inadequate. The delivery of the parts was botched using FedEx instead of UPS. At the last minute after hours of involvement it came to light that the machine was history and we were suckered into buying the wrong part and running out of time for the customer to ready their clothes for their trip. I felt so bad of the machine resisting the repair process thaqt I discounted my labor time and told the customer pay me what they felt would be ritght. It was not all part selectt's fault but they had their page in the story.

Did some checking to make sure the filter, screen and hose were unobstructed. Turned off water at faucets, disconnected hoses and drainage hose. Unplugged machine and pulled out far enough to access back. Used nutdriver to remove 6-7 screws that held the back on, and then inlet valve plate. Removed clamp on outlet hose, then one by one removed wires, making sure to connect them to the same connections on new valve. Re-connected outlet hose and reversed procedure. Easy fix. Went ahead and replaced hoses while I had it out.

Pulled top off and removed corner mounting plate then unscrewed mixing valve.replace wiring to valve and mount new valve in it's place .put back support and corn brace .then attached hoses and put back in service .work great for 20 plus yr machine.thanks tom