WWA5412VEL General Electric Washer - Instructions

Took agitator out of machine knocked old coupling out and inserted new one into agitator/washing machine. Part arrived promptl and correctly. Thank you. JD

First opened top cover using a putty knife to release the spring load catches in front.
Second, removed the old splash guard by carefully prying the retainer wire off the flange of the washing machine top. The retaining wire needs to be reused.
Third, put the retaining wire on the splash guard and worked it on to the washing maching top flange using a screwdrive to pry it over the lip a little bit at a time.
It is important to place the splash guard on the locating pin so that the spout for water recirculation will fit through the hole in the splash guard.

First I moved the washing machine out from wall. I then took a flat head screwdriver to pryed up the top to gain access to the shield cover. I then pulled of the retaineing wire clamp. Cleaned up all surfaces for preperation of new shield. Installed new shield cover and closed top of macine!!

repair was quick and part came quickly. I was very satisfied.

simply replaced the old knob with the new one.

I own a vacation rental two hours from my home. Our guests
said that there was water coming out from under the washer.
I called our local handyman Lolo who is very bright. He came
over and looked at the washer and saw that a plastic part was leaking. He got on your website and put the part number in and we had our part within two or three days of ordering it.
I was impressed by your having this older part-maybe 15 year old washer,the fast delivery since we didn't do it by rush order. I also didn't have to hire an expensive repair service company. We are back in business thanks to your quick service and delivery. We will use you again in the future for sure.
Best Regards,
Trish W Haskell
Borrego Springs, CA

I had to tilt the machine to gain access to the screw that holds the yoke bracket in place. Then I removed the one screw that holds the yoke bracket and removed the yoke and it's cushion. I then had to remove the two friction pads from the old yoke and install them on the new yoke. I was able to re-use the old yoke cushion and after re-assembling the yoke and cushion, I installed this assembly with the one screw. Righted the machine and the job was done.

removed old knob pushed on new nrw one locked on wifh key

Removed back cover. Opened top lid - slid putty knife under front lip to release latch (2). Removed old valve hose and clamps. Replaced with new valve hose and new clamps. No more leaking during fill.

Removed existing knob by using pliers to release clip from shaft. Inserted new knob (with clip attached) onto shaft and aligned with shaft groove to engage clip. Easy breezy.

Very straight forward install. First removed the agitator itself by pulling straight up on it. Then removed the agitator coupling without the need of any tools just pull it straight off. Install new coupler and agitator.

An older gentleman neighbor needed help finding a part for his machine. We checked local parts stores to no avail. I researched the internet, found your site and ordered the part. My adult son put the part on in less than 15 minutes. Our neighbor was very happy. We will tell any one in our neighborhood to order parts here. We followed the part watching UPS. The part arrived at the exact day and time. It couldn't be easier.

Once I figured out what was wrong (splined, hard rubber part of the agitator coupler had parted from the inner, metal part)the job was easy. But I couldn't really tell what was going on until I saw the new coupler ($31.25)which I didn't even have to use. What I did was rough the outside of the metal core with a coarse file, score the inside of the outer, hard rubber part with a screw driver, clean both surfaces thuroughly and reassemble with JB weld. Let sit for 24 hours, and voila. If I had to do it again I could do it in half an hour (not counting glue set-up time).

Using the 1" putty, push in on the 2 clips holding the top of the washer. Lift top, exposing the top of tub. Remove old rubber seal from top edge of tub. To ease installation of new seal, stretch it over the edge of tub which tensions it, then start tucking the outer lip along the outside edge, tilting the seal towards the outside edge until the seal is completely in its groove all around. I had to hold down on the seal to keep it from rolling off while I lowered the top back down. When the lid is down, push hard to engage the 2 clips that lock it down.

In my case, the splined shaft (steel) had worn off all splines in the aluminum coupling. So the spin cycle would eventually get enough friction to spin the clothes, but the friction required to agitate the clothes back and forth was too much. Since the splines were worn off, the whole agitator lifted right out with no tools. There is a cap on the top that needs to be kept in good condition, so be careful popping it off. After removing the cap, I cut a hole using a utility knife, then punching a flat head screw driver around the edge. Careful not to damage the edge that the cap seats to. I then matched a socket the size of the top of the coupling and hammered the coupling through the bottom. I used the flat blade also to clear the aluminum out of the splines on the shaft. The fit of the new coupling into the agitator is tight. I put the coupling in the freezer, and the top of agitator in hot water to help resize things for installation. I also used dish soap on the coupling straight out of the freezer. A small amount of grease should be used on the shaft to make it easier and prevent galvanic corrosion. It still took all my weight to install. Don't use a hammer, as you don't want to damage the area the cap goes on. Pop the cap on and wash.