WSM2781WBWWW General Electric Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

About a year ago I had to replace the front sliders. I had thought at the time that I should replace the belt and check the rear bearing, but I was in a hurry, and the wash was backing up, so I didn't do it. Oops. Within 6 months dryer started squeaking. Did I get around to pulling it out, and greasing rear bearing. Nope. Dbl oops.

Luckily on this model, everything is pretty basic, strong, and well made. The rear bearing after 9 years of constant use (5 person family)had simply run out of grease, and then worn into the plastic housing that holds the rear bearing. NOTE TO ALL -- probably too late if you're reading this -- but just grease your rear bearing by using a grease gun with high temp grease (car bearing grease works fine)through the small hole at back of dryer dead center of drum. It will take 5 min, and probably prevent the need for this repair, or delay it substantially.

Unplug dryer, turn off gas, and disconnect gas hose and duct hose. Inspect the latter two and consider repacing while you're at it. Move dryer to where you can get at front and back without cursing too much.

So...take a putty knife, and put a little masking tape around the blade if you're worried about scratching the finish on your dryer. If you're doing this repair, your dryer is probably at least as old as mine, and you can skip the tape and just bear with some small scratches.

Slide the putty knife into the groove between lid and front of dryer and pop up. (held by spring clips)

Now tip up lid and slide back, you may have to wrestle it a bit, or it may come off like a charm. Put it out of the way.

Take a sec to look at the interior wiring (you unplugged the dryer, right?) If you see any worn or raw spots, take some electrical tape and fix. Should be fine though. Take a vacuum and suck up any extraneous lint, dirt etc.

Tip dryer up slightly and block with wood or a brick. There are two screws at bottom -- undo these. IF they're missing, no worries, they're not critical. Put dryer back down.

Get a trouble light or a good lamp and shine ti wher you can see interior of dryer. There are two screws, one on each side on the INSIDE of the dryer, connecting the side panels to the front. Undo those. Put them in a little baggie and mark them "interior fr screws." I know, you're thinking "I can just remember them." But trust me, this way, you can't lose them or screw up. Now use the putty knife to pop the front panel off the sides. Do this gently, and don't yank the front way back, as the drum will drop. Oh, on mine there was a yellow plastic doohicky in the middle at top. Take that off too (one tiny screw) put the screw back in part way and stick the doohicky in the baggie.

OK, so the front panel should now be loose. It is still on a couple of little tabs at the bottom, which you prefer not to bend. So lift the front slightly and then back it out, while you (or preferably a helper) holds the drum so you can let it down gently. The front is attached to all sorts of wiring. You don't need to disconnect ANYTHING. THe front should be able to be moved away to the right like a door. Rest this up against something so as to not strain the wiring. On the front of the door are the felt and plastic sliders. If they look beat up or worn, replace them now -- or like me, you can do the job twice... That part is super simple...

Now, got back of dryer, there is a vent at back bottom. Remove three (or less) screws) and remove little door. Probably substantial lint here. Vacuum like crazy. The belt comes down around the drive pulley, and then up and over the idler pulley (to keep tension on belt. IF this feels loose/easy to move, replace the belt. In fact, if the belt is over 5 years old, replace the belt. (or when it breaks, you get to open everything again). Just unhook the spring and the idler will be loose and you can remove the belt off the pulleys -- it's now just around the drum. Slide the idler pulley off the stem

Removed 2 Hose clamps with pliers. Unplug power source from drain pump. Unscrew 2 mounting screws with 5/16" nut-driver then replace unit in reverse sequence...... Very simple.

I used the puddy knife at the top of the front panel seam. I pushed in the knife till I heard the top panel release. I then did the other side of the front panel till I heard the same sound.I now could raise the top of the dryer. Inside the front panel(on the left and the right) are two philips head screws that I loosened and took off, releasing the front panel,however I had to use the needle-nose pliers to take off two electr. connections to the door switch. After I took off the front panel, there it was ,THE PROBLEM. The top glide and bottom felt were shot and worn out. I did as the directions told me, and with a 1" chissal, I gently scraped off the old glide and felt, without scratching the metal. Cleaned off the residue of old glue with Goo-Gone. Now I put glue on the top part of the portal(which I marked before I removed it) waited a minute for it to get tacky and layed the new top glide on, gently pressing down to insure adhesion. It dried right away. I did the same with the lower felt glide.I did all the reinstallation of the panels in reverse order and everything fit perfectly and smoothly. I waited about an hour to make sure all was dried (glue) and turned it on.It was alittle stiff running at first, but then it ran smooth as silk and no more squeaking or burning of my clothes.Thank you partselect!!!!

simple replacement

Most time was spent on web looking for disassembly diagrams! But once I got it apart it was good. And I saved about $27.00 buying from this site! Putting together was easy, clamping down felt with glue on it so it would dry right and then putting front on with drum riding on the glid was the hardest. I also put synthetic grease on rear bearing. Fired it up after repair and my wife is back dring clothes again! Products were at my door 3 days after ordering at 11:30 pm at night!

I first ordered the replacement knob. It had broken before and I had repaired using a steel washer and epoxy to support the cracked plastic. When the support system I installed broke, I suspected a deeper problem; increased resistance to knob rotation in the control system. I removed the front panel to get back at the switch area. I wanted to lubricate the whole control, but UT seemed to be well sealed. Finding a couple areas where the plastic came together, held by a permanent metal mount, I used a pressurized silicone lubricant and sprayed into the small spaces. That allowed for easier rotation of the control, hopefully giving a longer lifespan to the new knob. DO

The only part of the this repair that I struggled with was researching how to pull the front and top of my dryer loose. A putty knife and good instructions solved the problem.
I removed the guides and bottom felt from the diameter of the drum and cleaned the surface by scraping with a razor knife.
I applied the glue and placed the new guides and felt along the drum, securing them with small clamps.

I left the clamps in placed while I cleaned up the inside and behind the dryer.
I reassembled the dryer and let it sit until the next day.
All is well and our drawer are no longer being gobbled up!

Removed front and top panals to dryer. Installed belt over the drum. opened back air vent panal and installed belt to pully. Reinstalled back top and front panals. Done.

I just put the new knob on! It was simple! Took less than a minute.

Turns out the part was only $50, and the repair was easy as can be...

1. Pop the top cover off, pressing the clips down with a flathead screwdriver.

2. Remove the two screws that hold the front cover in place, and take the cover off.

3. Remove the old glides and the felt they're attached to.

4. Scrape off any remains of the felt and glue.

5. Apply the glue they send with the part. Give it a minute to get tacky before you stick the new part on.

6. Stick the new part on. Let it sit for a few hours before re-assembling the dryer.

Thanks, PartSelect, for saving me a bunch of money, yet again!

The felt liner between the drum and the front door was worn out. The plasitc glides were all torn apart. Clothes would catch in the rim of the dryer.

Anyways, just lift the lid and tilt the front of the dryer down (after unplugging the control panel). Although only the top of the felt was messed up, i replaced the whole thing. I used the paint stripper to take off the glue residue from the previous felt.

Once it was clean it was easy to glue the felt pieces in place, easy reassembly and the dryer is good as new.

The design of this dryer sucks. This is the 2nd time the felt was repaired. The first time cost well over $300.

used a putty knife to press in the font clips removed top then front panel . pulled off the old felt and glids what was left of them. then used a 2'' air grinder with a 3m scuff pad to remove the old glue and remaining felt then glued the new ones back in place gave it about 30mins to set up then put it back together and works good as new

Took the top and the front panel off (took me a while to figure this out without breaking stuff). Took off belt, pulled out drum, replaced bearing, and then I also had to replace the ball (attached to rear of drum, which slides inside the bearing).

Watch the videos for replacing the belt. The one by Kenmore is the most accurate even though it isn't GE -- the mechanisms are the same. Here is the link to the one I found most helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2wTmfurT5o

First: You don't need to pull the washer/dryer out at all. Leave it in place. You can put the belt around the drive shaft and get the tension pully in place by feel and inspect your work with a flasklight,

Second: There is absolutely no reason to spend $70 on a rubber belt. Other places sell it as cheaply as 10 dollars. Shop around -- the actual part is not at all impressive and should not be priced this high.

took the top off, then the front,there 2 screws that hold the front on. there's a yellow thing on the front took that off, it is held on with one screw. on the back of the dryer on the bottom is a metal plate take that off, to get to the belt take that off. then there' 3 screws in the drum, take them off ,then you can slid the drum out. then take 2 screws off the bearing bracket, that's it. easy