WRS23MW3AWF Westinghouse Refrigerator - Instructions

I first located the wiring diagram under right frt. of fridge. Using it I troubleshot the problem to be the ADC module. I ordered the ADC module and blower motor that it controls(as a precaution since that is the device that the ADC drives)After removing the icemaker and all the back panels in the freezer you can access the blower motor. The ADC module is accessible after removing the plastic panels in the top of the fridge. Look for a burn spot on the module. Be sure to order the parts using the fridge model # and not the parts # on the wiring diagram(they will have changed since the model was built). Mine needed an updated wiring harness and deleted one of the dampner motors. Be sure to replace one wire at a time so not to get confused of wire location. Pretty straight forward repair if you have some mechanical ability. I have never repaired a fridge before, but have done car electronic work.

After unsuccessfully trying to change the blown light bulb I discovered that the plastic light socket had gotten so hot that it melted and permanently fused with the blown bulb. After my new socket arrived in the mail I just popped the temp control assembly out with a screw driver and removed the old socket and placed the new one in. Whole operation to 5 minutes.

it was a no brainer install

Repair was pretty straight forward. The Plastic around the glass cover of the crisper pan all broke where the stud holds it up. Replaced both of the plastic covers.

The broken support stud was a bit of a pain, you have to use a long nose pliers to try and pull the middle stud that locks everything in place. Forcing the entire support stud out will crack the plastic body of the fridge, so you have to truly find a way to get that middle stud out first to lose the clamps. Look at the new one you have and figure out how it works to give you an idea of how you can pull out the broken one.

All in all, was a pretty simple install. More annoying as you have a small space to work in.

Reviewed the video on your website and followed the directions to the letter. Great video

Pulled the fridge from encloser, removed rear cardboard cover and found compressor in rear. The compressor, being very accessable, was easy to find the bad starter/capacitor. I removed the spring retainer, pulled the capacitor off the starter, removed the starter by pulling outward and replaced with new. All went well when the unit started and cooled as new. Some noise at times, but traced to icemaker. As time went by, that noise was gone.

I pulled out all the screws and from the freezer side and remove the panel, then I located the thermostat snap the old one out and put the new one in.

Really, really, really easy:
1.Unplug refrigerator (electrical safety).
2.Remove cardboard cover at bottom of refrigerator (two short self-tapping bolts) with a wrench.
3.Pull old fan blade off fan motor shaft (just held on by a compression fitting--no tools needed).
4.Push new fan blade on shaft.
5. Replace cardboard cover.
6. Plug in refrigerator, write nasty letter to Frigidaire.

Removed 4 screws holding face plate onto ice bucket. Removed the 3 screws holding the ice crusher housing. Noted postion and rotation of teh s;ring loaded ice selecting rod. Removed broken crusher housing. Reveresed process for installion. Took for test drive. Operational...

Put in new hinges and two screws

The radiator was not being properly defrosted and the refrigerator and freezer could not keep the temperature. Two things can be causing this, the defrost module which defrost the refrigerator on a regular basis ($110) or the thermostat ($18). I tried the thermostat since it is very easy to do (remove cover plate inside the freezer, cut wires of old thermostat, connect new thermostat by stripping wires. Presto...however the thermostat was NOT the problem. The problem was a blown timer circuit board that controls the regular defrosting. That repair was done by a technician. The board was $110, it seats inside the refrigerator in the control panel area.

Loosen two screws, unclip electrical connection, remove ice maker, remove l shaped leveling piece of metal from old one, put on new one. Install in reverse order. Hint.. when loosening two screws, use a mirror

remove the rear cover, and simply pull off harness and replace starter.

The door has nylon gear teeth that wore out and needed replaced. The ice chute came off very easy with 6 screws. I used a punch and pliers to remove the hinge pin. Then the door came off and the new one put on. Very easy. The part was ordered on Sunday and arrived on Tuesday.

Project requires removal of 9 phillips head screws. Also have some needle nose pliers and a paper clip and/ or skinny magnet handy for steps (7) and (9).

(1) Turn off power to refrigerator.
(2) Slide out water catch tray at bottom of dispenser unit.
(3) Remove the three screws that are now visible.
(4) Pull front water/ ice dispenser (cosmetic) panel off of the refrigerator and set aside.
(5) Remove the 3 screws affixing circuitry panel in place and set aside.
(6) Gently pull out the circuit panel and allow it to hang from the refrigerator door. Note: Unless you have very large hands you should not have to disconnect any wiring to do this repair.
(7) Remove the three screws and two plates holding the dispenser actuator in place, being careful not to drop the screws or plates into the unit. If they do drop you can get them out of the unit using the needle nose pliers and/ or a bent pointy piece of metal (e.g., paper clip).
(8) Remove broken dispenser arm.
(9) Insert new dispenser arm.
(10) Replace all screws and panels.
(11) Turn refrigerator power back on.

Note: The new dispenser arm has reinforcing bars molded into the back that were not on the original model. The company is apparently aware of the problem of the weak dispenser arm and fixed it in the replacement part... so, you should not have to be doing this repair again.