WRS23MW3AW7 Westinghouse Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed top hinge, lifted door off, replaced lower hinge bracket and cams. Replaced door. Part fit perfectly in spite of a design change. No more annoying popping noise.

We watched the video on the computer how to repair and install the hinge bearing, followed the instruction, and the repair job was done successfully and easily without any further problems.

moved freezer items to right of icemaker,loosen two nuts lifted icemaker over nuts,squeezed and pulled cable out turned over marked L bracket screw with marker for location plugged cable in tighten screws,made ice in 2 1/2 hours john

I am a 65 year old woman with no mechanical aptitude: I just unplugged the frig. And used a screw driver to pry of the plastic socket from its outside edge. . Then you just unplug two tiny contact plugs that appear when you pull out the socket and replug in those two the same way on the new part. Pop the socket back into the hole . . . . And screw in the new bulb. I knew I needed the socket part cause when the bulb burned out , a new bulb still did not work. . . If I can do it, anyone can!

Removed decorative end caps on each end of the handle just by sliding them off. Unscrewed the broken handle and used the same screws to install the new handle. Replaced the decorative end caps by sliding back in place. Entire process took less than 2 minutes.

Tested for power and found the thermal cut-off bad. Installed new one.

ice maker i received went in place of the old one with no problems or having to modify anything.Just loosened the two mounting screws and lifted out old one and new went in its place.very easy!

Shut the water off to the refrigerator. Loosened the two mounting bolts on the icemaker and lifted the old ice maker straight up. Unplugged the wire harness. The old ice maker had a 90 degree metal bracket mounted underneath the ice maker that rested on the wall of the freezer. I marked the bracket around the screw with a sharpie and removed the bracket and put it on the new ice maker in the same position that I marked. This bracket will keep the new ice maker level in the freezer. Plug in the harness on the new one. Slide it over the mounting bolts making sure the water through is in the icemaker and tightened the mounting bolts. Ice maker may take a while to cycle through, up to 24 hours, to start making ice. Done.

We replaced our older 26' unit with a 23.6' model because of space limitations. There was no repair involved other than installing a new shelf with a cold cuts drawer and a 2 gal. door shelf bin. "Voila" more storage in the same space.

took the door off and replaced bearing. easier than I thought it would be and no more popping!

I followed the instructions in the video associated with the part that I ordered. The video was perfect and described everything I needed to do clearly. Repair is 100% successful!

1) cleared remaining parts of broken crisper supports by pushing them into refrigerator insulation(pushed on 'pegs' so 'peg' holes in side of plastic inner liner of refrigerator were clear. 2) Was unable to fully place new crisper supports into postiion. 3) Then, out of despiration, used small light hammer to gently tap on largest 'pin.' I was surprised to see this 'pin' enter into plastic side of refrigerator and then to see crisper support was secure when 'pin'/peg' was flush with new crisper support. 4) then returned crisper to correct postion; supports held. 5) WARNING-DO NOT OVERLOAD CRISPERS!! I BELIEVE THIS CAUSED 'PIN'/'PEG' FAILURE INITIALLY! I don't know if cause was volume too high with crisper forced into place OR if the crisper mass/weight was the culprit. SUGGEST weight limit less than 7.5 lbs.; don't attempt to load in more volume than top of crisper.

I first determined the problem. I found PartSelect.com through online search. I ordered the part online Sunday morning. Part arrived Tuesday afternoon(Christmas eve) and I installed it that night! Now I am a gal mind you, but I am pretty handy. I pulled out the fridge, unplugged it and removed the back panel, easy. Then I used a heat gun on low the defrost the 'defroster' which had REALLY iced up bad. It had iced up so much,in fact, it had disconnected the evaporator fan connection. I clipped the wires. Stripped the ends, slid on the shrink tubing supplied, connected the wires with the crimp connectors and heated the shrink tube. I also put another piece of shrink tube on the fan connector so it would be more secure. Put the panel back on, plugged it back in and started working like a champ!! I am so proud of myself and likely saved at least $250.00 on a service call! Total cost for this repair, $22.00!! :D

1). Shut off water supply to fridge. 2). Move fridge out to gain access to back of fridge. 3). Remove poly line to water tube have a glass handy to catch any remaining water that might be in line. Some may have a foam insulating washer around water tube remove it first. 4). My Sears-Kenmore was a twist lock water tube have to turn it to left or right depending on brand to remove tube. 5). After removing make sure tube didn't just have water frozen in tube ( that was my problem ) run it under hot water frozen piece will come out. 5). Problem fixed, reverse directions to re-install tube!

I used a nut driver to loosen two mounting screws, disconnected the wiring harness, and removed the ice maker. I transfered the level bracket from the old ice maker to the new ice maker and re-installed the new unit - connected the wiring harness and tightened two mounting screws. Once installed, I had to make minor adjustments on the front of the unit to get the ice maker to produce "full sized" cubes. Instalation took about ten minutes. Adjusting took 2 or 3 cycles of the ice maker to achieve properly sized cubes.