WNCD2050A0WC General Electric Washer - Instructions

I replaced the coupling by only having to remove one bolt with a socket wrench. Once replaced I installed the new assy over the coupling making sure ro align the splines then pushing down until the assy snapped into place. Easy.

first remove the front washer cover by finding the two pressure clips that hold it to the top lid. gently push the putty knife into the clips one at a time. this will raise and separate them from the front panel. the panel will tilt forward and u can now remove it from the bottom clips by sliding it up and out. to open the top cover u remove the two 1/4 in screws on the sides of the front panel and lift the top. make sure to secure it in place or unplug the single electrical connection at the rear and remove the whole top from the clips, its really simple and the most convenient mehtod. to remove the straps u can now get to all four without much interference. there are two size screw heads so make sure u have a nut driver or small socket set. after changing the straps i went to change the agitator coupling. the agitator pulled directly up without a problem. just put your two hands under and pull straight up with one good jolt. the plastic coupler has one bolt in the middle that came out easily with a small socket set. my problem arose when the plastic coupler would not come off the metal shaft. after a short time of pulling and prying i finally decided to cut it off. using a small hacksaw and taking my time i put two cuts into the coupler. they were on opposite sides and where vertical, running along the steel shaft. i could now split it in two and it came off very easily and quickly. now when putting on the new one make sure the splines line up. push as far down as u can then use the center bolt to seat the gear all the way down. the agitator also has to be lined up just right. it also has splines on the interior that allow it to line up with the coupler and merely push down until it reseats itself in place. replace the top of the washer and then the front panel. don't forget to rebolt the top panel to the frame. push the front panel in until it snaps into place. full replacement time was about 40 minutes and actually not bad with the right tools.

I placed both hands under the agitator 180 degrees apart, gave a quick jerk, and seperated the agitator from the coupling. With the agitator removed, use a socket and ratchet to remove the bolt holding the coupling to the spline. Remove the old coupling and slide the new one over the spline. Lightly tap on the coupling if necessary. Insert the bolt with the ratchet and slide the agitator back over the coupling and you are done.

Used the spatula to release the front panel (push flat spatula under top about 2 inches from either side to release the two sprng clips holding the front panel on) to expose the tub and motor assembly. Inspected the belt and it seemed worn and a lot of rubber particles were in base of machine. Ordered the belt from partselect - received it two days later. Loosened 4 motor mount nuts. Removed old belt and replaced. Tightened belt and tightened nuts on motor. Only tricky part is you will need extensions for socket drive because belt is in the way for two of the motor mount nuts. I used a 1/4" small socket wrench, with an extension. No expertise needed on this one.

I installed the coupler and tightened the bolt with an adjustable wrench. Then I aligned the agitator and snapped it onto the coupler. Then I snapped the fabric softener dispenser onto the agitator. All of this took less than 3 minutes and that includes putting the wrench back into the tool box.

I pulled the agitator off of the coupler and out of the machine. I moved the coupler in circles by hand to check to see if it was working properly. It wasn't. I got an adjustable wrench and removerd the bolt that held the coupler on. I pulled the coupler out of the wash basin and examined it. I saw that it was stripped out and I new I had to get a new one. I first called my local sears store to see if I could get the parts. First I spent about 20 minutes tied up in their phone system and then when I finally got to speak to an actual person they didn't have a clue. Then somehow I got transferred to the Sears 1-800- phone number and spent about 20 minutes talking with a parts person. Meanwhile I checked out partsselect.com while I was speaking with the Sears rep. It turns out that Sears wanted about $25 more for the parts than parts select and I was only placing a $50 order. When I brought this to the attention of the sales rep. they replied that they were shipping only GE repair parts. Big Deal. The parts that I got from parts select were the exact parts that I took out of the washer. Ordering online was very easy and convenient and I wasn't overcharged for shipping. The repair took less than 3 minutes and everything works like new. Thank you parts select.

The back of the control panel had an instruction pamplet that was very useful. 2 parts did not go as written tho. To "pop" the spinner out, required short 1x4s and a shake/shingle bar to pry it up and the wedging of the 1x4s under it, until enough strain was put on it to "pop" it off. Then the large 1&11/16 nut was a bear. It required a short pipe wrench (so it fit in the tub) and a hammer to brake it loose.

Simply put hands, one under each side of the agitaror and pulled up. The part snapped off very easily. I then placed the new part in the tub and pressed down. Extremely easy, should have done it sooner!

My washer was making noise but not agitating or spinning on any of the cycles that I turned the dial to. Didn't know if it was the transmission or something simple. I did some research and discovered it may be the belt, even though the belt looked new, I changed it anyway by just removing the front of the washer and cutting the belt off and putting the new belt on by just turning the pulleys until it fed on. No need to tip it over to do the repair...and it WORKED!! Then I did the happy dance around the house...see woman can repair 2!

I turned off the water and inplugged the washer. Then removed the Torx screws off the back control panel. Inside there was a schema of the machine with notes on how to remove the front panel. If you already know how to do that - this step would be unnecessary. Next I took a putty knife and placed where shown (lined up with lid openings) to release the front panel - one clip on each side of the top of front panel and then removed the panel completely. I used a thin screwdriver to help remove the old lid switch as the locking tab is quite hard to press in otherwise. I cleaned up and stripped the old wires to prepare for splice. I fed the new wires through lid switch hole and snapped it into place. I stripped the shield back on the new lid switch to prepare for splice. I threaded shrink wrap wire cover over one side of each wire and then put that end in a splice wire connector and crimped it down with the pliers. I placed the other end of like colored wire in the other end of the splice connector and crimped it down. Repeated for other wire. Then slid the shrink tubing over the splice and used the hair dryer to shrink the tubing over the new splice. Then used the electrical tape to tape the two spliced wires together and to identify it as a repaired section. Returned front panel and paperwork to control panel and Voila! had a working washing machine.

Had never repaired a washer before, but have several tools and enjoy working with my hands. Knew it would be cost prohibitive to call a repairman, and didn't have anything to lose. Quick delivery from partselect -- reasonable price, too. This was as easy as simply taking the whole washer apart (NOTE -- there are instructions behind the knobs inside the unit that are very helpful!) replacing the transmission and putting it all back together. Hardest part was getting the hub nut off of the transmission axle. To get it off (REVERSE THREADED, so 'tighten' to 'loosen') I used a 1 11/16 socket and impact wrench. Use the same tool to tighten (but go EASY...don't overtighten). This was not difficult, but just took some time. A couple of evenings later, we were washing again like NEW. Part cost around $160, labor was 'free' and much less than a new $500 top loader or $800 front loader. If you enjoy taking things apart and have some tools, then go for it!

Removed agitator. Removed small bolt holding mounting device. Removed mounting device. Replaced everything in reverse order with new parts. No problems.

I replaced the work tub dampening strap because that what everyone recommended to replace for this problem. However the purpose of these straps is to dampen the agitation cycle and they have nothing to with the spin cycle at all. the balance ring assembly had been rubbing on the outer tub so I decided to replace it because of a "balance issue". However the ring is liquid with baffles to counter balance the load as it spins and it still had the liquid inside of it so it was actual not needed. What fixed my issue was I found a bolt laying at the bottom of the washer. This bolt was one of the 4 bolts that hold the outer tub to the metal support. When it feel out the tub was only held in at 3 points not the needed 4. This allowed it to rock a bit in the high speed spin and you thought it was going to fly into a 1000 pieces. I replaced the bolt and other parts since I had paid for them and everything works great now.

First I unplugged the washer from the wall and then I removed the front panel with a putty knife. I slid the putty knife in between the front panel and top of the washer to disengage the two clips (see parts diagram on Partselect.com). Then I removed the four nuts holding the motor. I then removed the motor and old belt. I installed the new motor and new belt and tightened the four nuts ensuring proper belt tension. The new motor included a new wiring harness and capacitor. The wiring harness installation instructions were easy to follow. Besure to read the all the instructions first before beginning to cut the old harness. Once the wiring harness was installed, the machined worked just like new. I did not need the Retaining Clip for Clutch since the new motor and clutch kit come as one assembly and there is no longer an actual clutch. The two-speed motor just has a pulley for the belt.

Removed the front cover of the washer by sliding a screw driver to release the clips. Loosened the 4 nuts that held the drivebelt motor pushed the motor back to release the drive belt. Replaced the drive belt, pulled motor until drive belt was snug and tighted the 4 bolts. At the same time, I replaced the 4 tub dampening straps located at the top of the tub and now the unit is just like new.

Repaired Agitator - required to pull from the bottom pulling on one side a little more then the other. Once you got loose it comes right off. Under neith there is a bolt that holds on agitator coupler. remove the bolt with wrench or socket wrench and then the agaitator coupler. Replace with new agitator coupler ,make sure grooves are aligned when putting on the rotor. Tap the top of the agitator coupler lightly until it is completely seated. Put the bolt on with wrench or socket wrench. Put the agitator back on over the agitator coupler and agin make sure grooves are alighned and push down until it feels it is seated. When done, give it a light pull to make sure it is secure and then you are done.