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oil leaked on clutch and slipping
followed the instruction on the wiring sheet and removal and repair sheet that comes with the wahing machine. They wee very good directions and the only problem that I had wa getting the 1 and 11/16 inch not off the shaft that holds the tub to the transmission, The main problem was that the transmission had leaked all over the break and the tub would spin while hitting the pipe wrench with a claw hammer. Ended up using a 10 lb sledge hammer to hit the pipe wrench and that finally loosened up the nut, but that was the only real problem i had. I say this was easy except for getting off that nut
The washer kept overflowing and flooding the garage every time we did a load of laundry
Instead of calling a repair man, we decided to look up the problem on the internet. We found that other people had the same problem on a website such as this. We narrowed it down to 2 parts. I opened up the panel on the washer where all the controls are (only 4 screws). Inside the panel was a diagram of the washer. We thought it would most likey be the Water level Pressure Switch. I found the part right away and removed it, I removed two connectors. It was really easy. We ordered the part online and it came really quick (within two days). I installed the new part(Water level pressure switch) and tested it. The washer worked perfect and did not overflow. We tested it again with a load of laundry. Everything was good. We saved a lot of time and money by fixing it ourselves. We did not have to wait around all day for a repair man and the part was under $30.00. I am happy the way it all turned out.
First removed front washer access panel. Next: removed top panel torx screws and disconnected lid switch wiring connector Next: removed washer top/lid Next: removed inoperative lid switch (two phillips head screws) Next: installed new lid switch and screws Next: installed washer top and connected lid switch wire connector Next: installed control panel and screws Next: tested installation Next: installed front washer access panel Easy repair. FYI, Parts Select had best price and part arrived within two days of ordering! Highly recommend them for your parts.
First I removed the agitator with a belt. Then I removed the nut with a wrench. The Agitator coupli was smooth on the inside so I knew that was the problem. I got the new part, slid it into place. Tightened the new bolt and replaced the Agitator component with a quick push downwards. Easy!
We couldnt figure out why our clothes werent getting clean until I took the door magnet off and placed it on the sensor so we could watch the washing machine while it was operating with the lid open. The agitator was not moving at all. I put a rope through the fins of the agitator on 2 sides, and using a board for leverage, it popped right off. I used a socket to remove the coupler screw and put on the new parts. Washer works great now. A very easy repair.
- Troubleshot fill valve first. OK - Followed leads to temperature selector switch. - Checked resistance and live voltage at switch. - Determined switch had failed on "hot" side.
1. SECURED POWER 2. Removed four torx screws on top of dashboard. 3. Removed six sheet metal screws from dashboard back. 4. Removed 4 leads from bad switch (one at a time). 5. Placed leads on new switch (one at a time). 6. Removed existing switch. 7. Installed new wired switch. 8. Re-installed dashboard back and top screws. 9. Op-test sat.
I followed the instructions provided by GE that were stored in the control section of the washer. Removing the hub nut was a huge pain. It took Liquid wrench, hammer, pipe wrench and patience to remove it. Other than that it was fairly easy. I didn't like the way the tub seal fit so I used some silicon gasket making material to help make sure the seal sealed good against the tub.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Washer was not filling up larger than medium
Unplugged washer. Removed four screws on the top panel, unplugged and removed old water level pressure switch (which was visually broken), replaced with new part, put the top panel back on, re-connected power, and tested to make sure that the washer would now fill to Extra-Large. Worked!
Two visits by ge repair techs failed to clearly identify the problem. After observing many fill ups, I decided the problem was an intermittant failure of the pressure fill switch. Ge wanted $80 for the service call plus $200 to replace switch, and recommended we buy a new washer for about $400! For $ 32 partselect shipped a new ge pressure switch in about 3 days! Openning up the top control panel required removing 4 sheet metal screws with 6 point star heads. The t-15/t-20 star driver was available at ace hardware for under $2. Removing the old pressure switch and installing the new switch was described in the ge service sheet that came with the washer (very easy). I installed the part and solved the problem; the machine runs like new!
Remove aggitator, disconect 4 support straps, pry off clips/ latches on top of drum. Remove small bolt that holds on the small plastic unit unto trans. That will give you access to the large bolt that holds the hub in place. This nut is on tight use a pipe wrench and adjustable wrench and TURN CLOCKWISE TO REMOVE - lock for direction on nut. Remove the bin gently and turn over to remove the small bolts that hold the hub in place. Installation is reverse of removal.
My husband was unavailable and already overloaded, so I took a screw driver and removed the front cover of the washer. After I discovered where the leak was coming from, I used a screw driver to remove one end of the hose and pliers to remove the other end. I went online, found the part and ordered it. It came in surprisingly fast. My husband put it back in about 5 minutes.
Transmission bearing went out creating alot of noise on every cycle.
I had to remove top control panel and flip it over the back and out of the way, but did not have to unplug anything. I then had to remove front and top panels in order to remove the agitator and eventually the tub assembly itself. Once the tub assembly was removed, I had to turn it upside down to remove the transmissing and brake assembly as well as the mounting bracket. The entire removal process took about an hour and a half. The reassembly took less than an hour. The most difficult part was removing the 1 11/16 nut that ties the agitator to the tramsmission through the tub. It took 3 of us to hold the tub in place so that one of us could use the 3/4 drive ratchet and extension to loosen the nut. We did the same thing during the reassembly. All together there ware quite a few parts removed and a fair amounte of different screws. In order to perform this job, you must have a decent tool set and the ability to diagnose each step of the process, but it's not very difficult otherwise.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Tranny oil ran out onto Laundry room floor/making noise
Removed front cover(use screwdriver)clips on top of cover under lid Disconnected power from wall Disconnected wires to motor 1 screw/unplug for motor Uncwrewed clamp on drain hose Removed top lifts off easliy With help released Washing drum assy from hangers Slid back and Tilted drum assy outwards from drum opening out to the front of machine Pulled agatator up and off of hub Remove one bolt from hub 1/4 " rachet w 3/8" socket Pull off cap Removed Locking nut(couterclockwise)nut is soft metal used good vice grips firmly locked on nut Removed inner washing drum Turned over Entire Assy (motor up) Removed belt (slid off) Removed 4 blots from Motor/Tranny assy to Plastic outer drum Lifted off Motor/Tranny assy and pulled tranny out Reaasemble in reverse order witht the exception of replacing the hub seal(inside)Outer drum assy. There were service instruction under the front control panel.