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Ignitor glows but not hot enough to open the gas valve. It's old.
My Tappan Tail:
Open the oven and remove the racks, turn on the oven light. Remove two screws in the back to remove the bottom plate. Mine are about 1 1/4 in. long. Remove one nut holding the butterfly plate in place. Ignitor will be exposed.
Turn off the oven light and unplug oven. Don't drop the plug behind the oven, I was ready for that one. Drop light or flash light will be needed, it's dark in there. And something to sit on, 16" old plastic milk caddy, I just happen to have one.
Remove the two screws holding the ignitor, don't cut the wires just yet. Take note where the wiring runs. Install the new ignitor. My wires went behind the gas piping.
I cut the bottom wire from the old ignitor first, up close to the ceramic. Wire shield can be reused, slide it over the new wire. Cut the old wire, leave a lot. Trim the new wire to desired length and strip the ends of both and use the ceramic cap and connect the wires. Do the top wire. Slide the wire shield next to the igniter, adjust the wires so the wire shields won't slide away from ignitor. With the butterfly shield back in place it's time to plug it in and give it a test. Nice. Replace the bottom plate of oven, screw holes hard to find. Had to use an awl to find the holes to line up the screws. I also didn't push the front of the plate down into place until I had the screws started. It helped.
You might think this is overkill, but how many of us have ever replaced the ignitor. Not me. I do a lot of DIY's. I'll rate this as a 1, easy.
What shall I bake first, cornbread of course. I my cast iron skillet.
I used good old commom sense to disassemble and reassemble the frame, handle, internal glass,and inter panel to reach and repace the cracked glass. I must admit I had two machine screws left over during reassembly, but found a home. It is important to identify where each and every screw belongs. This will cut down your repair time. I thank PartSelect for providing great service and assisting me in my time of need.
oven very slow on heating up up to five minutes to ignite.
First removed oven racks then two screws to remove oven door, removed two screw of oven fan cover, ( need to remove fan cover to have clearance to removed bottom cover of oven) removed bottom cover of oven, then removed two screws holding oven igniter and cut wires of old igniter then spliced wire of new igniter to existing wire and reassemble in reverse order.
Removing the drip pan and the bottom burner cover exposed the igniter, removing two screws retaining the bracket freed the old igniter. Removing the warming drawer allowed access to the control module to unplug the wiring on the ignitor. After making myself a diagram, I unplugged the wires and removed the malfunctioning igniter. Cutting the leads off the old igniter long enough to splice it on below the oven bottom with the enclosed wire nuts and attaching the new igniter (reusing the old insulation to protect the wire) took only minutes and reassembly was straightforward.
New igniter: $60 Repairman fee saved $150 Being able to tell my wife "See, I told you I could fix it!" PRICELESS
Disconnected the oven from the wall outlet. Removed the bottom panel of the oven to reach the parts. Reached in the thight spot (not for a big guy)to unscrew the old igniter. Installed the new one. Plug the oven back. Turn the oven on bake at 350. Oveb lighted up in 5 seconds ! Working great since then!!!
Disconnected power cord to range Removed the cover over the flame guard Removed the Flame guard Pulled out broiler drawer Unscrewed the cover and disconnected the white plastic connector to the ignitor wires Un crewed the two small screws to the ignitor and removed the old ignitor Cut the two wires from the old ignitor Connected the new ignitor to the wires on the white connector Installed the new ignitor Reassembled parts dsassembled Plugged in power cord
Got a copy of the parts breakdown for the oven door from partselect. Com. Removed 8 screws from outer frame (3 top, 3 bottom, 1 on eah side). Removed the main glass pane from oven door, be careful when doing this as this is most of the weight of the door. It will want close on its own due to lack of weight. Removed the 2 top screws that attach the handle. Removed some screws from some plates that retain the 2 panes of glass of glass. Removed the third (most inner, broken) pane of glass. Replaced with new one. Reversed disassebly procedure for assembly.
The inside glass on my oven was broken and falling out.
First I removed the oven door from the range by removing 2 screws from the door. Next I removed 2 more screws from the oven door to get to the panel beneath. Once the top portion of the door was removed there were 4 nuts holding the glass sections together. Once these nuts were out I removed the broken class, replaced it with the new glass and reassembled. It was a very easy and quick project. I was so happy to find the part. I thought I was going to have to buy a new range. Thanks.
See other posts.... they have the correct repair procedures.
HIGHLY RECOMMEND removing the bottom drawer to access the space where splice will be made between new igniter wires and existing wires. This step is recommended in previous posts. I wasted a lot of time taking out unnecessary stuff in the oven compartment before I realized that the drawer compartment provided easy access for repair. Story of my life on just about all repairs.
I forgot to remove something I had saved in the oven, planning to remove it before using the range.
Very simple. Removed oven rack that had melted residue on it and replaced it with the new one from your company. I want to tell you that the delivery service I received was just geat. Took less than 48 hours to arrive at my home from the time I placed the order on line. Keep up the good work and I will be happy to share my experience with those in need of you services. Thanks. Marilyn Kasson
Remove bottom plates and deflector from oven, remove old igniter. Remove bottom drawer and panel to expose wiring. Cut wires, used supplied wire nuts to splice. The time consuming part of this job was having to clean all the parts before reassembly, and having to extract screws that were rusted into place due to heat and spillage. One of the igniter screws was stripped, and was very difficult to remove. The first part in your "probably cause" list was the right one! Thanks for the good service, and a useful website!
Oven would not light upon setting for oven heat-up. Igniter would glow, but no gas flow. Gas Valve safety not sensing enough current draw from igniter to open gas valve. Original igniter measured 175 Ohms on Volt-Ohmmeter. New Igniter measured 74 Ohms before installation and use. Installed and spliced into existing wires using good quality wire nuts and tucked wiring into wire areas ensuring it was away from burner flue. Oven lit on first start-up! Problem fixed! Easiest to get to by removing broiler drawer, pressing catch tangs in from outside rails using a small screwdriver. 1 screw of 2 on igniter mount was stripped and difficult to remove, but working with pliers and nut driver was able to remove it with some difficulty. New Igniter hangs fine with 1 screw. .