WFW9550WL01 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Checked for 120 V AC at pump connector. It was present . Pump was hot. Ordered new pump. Changing the pump is a piece of cake. Just tilt machine back and rest on a brick. Remove 3 5/16th screws . Disconnect 2 hoses and 1 plug. Took 10 minutes tops. Back in business.

Removed the outer spring with pliers. Pushed the bellow into the drum. Loosened the clamp on the bellow with a stub nose screwdriver. Removed the bellow. lined bellow up with soap fiting. Reversed procedure to reinstall.

raised front of machine about 6 inchs bigest pain is getting water out after that its easy.open drain just a bit other wise it will pour out all over about 4 pots worth if its full

Shocks are the #1 recommendation for this problem, but they were not the solution. The problem turned out to be broken weld in the stainless tub. Three of the shocks can be replaced from the front, the one under the motor can only be accessed from the back of the machine, which means it has to be pulled out away from the wall. Taking the old ones out is kind of a pain, they don't twist off easily and there is little room to use tool. Putting the new ones in is easy, they just twist into place.

This was an easy fix . PartSelect was quick and had all the info I needed to repair my washer. Plus shipping was super fast. Thanks

The end of the strike had broken off, and the pictures did not clearly show there was a cross-member at the end of the strike. That crossmember is what broke on the old strike. The strike has only two screws, both requiring a Torx bit (#20, I believe). Unscrew both screws to remove the strike plate. It was a little difficult to get out - it has a curved top to lock into the top slot, but the bottom slides slightly down into another slot. There isn't a lot of room in the opening to slide the strike up and down and get it out. Putting the new strike on is easier - ensure the curved end fits into the slot at the top and slide it up just a bit, push the bottom of the strike plate in, then let it drop right into place, and reinsert the screws. The only problem I had was the strike's holes for the screws are slotted horizontally, so the strike can be positioned across almost 3/8". The latch would not engage the strike the first time, so I had to loosen the screws and reposition the strike a bit. This time it latched, but the fit wasn't quite right, so I adjusted it again to get it where I needed it.

open the front bottom panel (3) screws. remove panel. twist off old shocks by turning the shock counter clockwise. reinstall shock by turning clockwise.

Well first of all when you buy this washer, the salesperson should tell you about checking the drain catch (ahead of the pump) and emptying out whatever get's caught in there. Never had a clue until it wouldn't work, then did a search on the internet, and darn if I didn't find specific instructions on how to open and clean out. Mine was packed full of hair pins, small change, lint, buttons, etc, all kinds of stuff. Guessing that is why the pump went out in the first place, it was so packed full that the pump could not draw any water through. But even after I cleaned it out, the pump was already shot. So called a service man, he said the pump would cost me around $200, then his labor to put it in, plus a $68 service call to just come and look at it, and $68 when he comes back to replace it. So I searched the internet for how to replace, came up with a very detailed You Tube video on how to replace Whirlpool Duet Pump. So ordered my pump from PartsSelect, just over $100, and replaced it myself. Super easy, only about 5 minutes. Thanks! —A very determined housewife!

Very --simple remove front acess panel -- open sump clean out remove water out of existing pump an hoses with small wet dry vac -- remove small wire harnes --cut band clamp on discharge with side cutter --remove inlet -suction side of pump hose clamp with channel locks --un bolt two screws on bottom side of washer with 5/16 nut runner --discard old pump reinstall new one in reverse order --only takes about 20 mins total !!! ---

I had replaced the flowmeter, but that didn't solve the problem, so I ordered the hot/cold solenoid fill part. Other than ONE screw that was unique -- the back retaining screws were nut driver screws, the one retaining screw was a torx which, of course, couldn't be seen unless you pulled the washer all the way out. Unscrewed that, unhooked the hose clamp with pliers and worried the hose off, removed the four electrical connections (which were TIGHT) and replaced the part. Turned on the water and was dismayed to get a d/l error code. After some colorful language learned from my drill sergeant 40 years ago, I realized that was "door lock" and closed the door tightly. Ran great and the Mrs. thinks I'm a hero.

I watched the video and it really was as easy as it looks. Great shipping time, I ordered the pump Monday and it arrived on Thursday, standard ground shipping!

I started by dismounting the door from the washer, then placed the door on a flat counter with a towel underneath to avoid scratching. I unscrewed all the bolts securing the the frame. Once the frame was removed, I dismounted the broken door hinge and secured the new one in reverse order. Just a little time and patience. Job completed with no mess!

Just went by instructions provided by parts web site

I used the video at parts select as a review, then just followed it. Easy de-install, reminder there's water in the line be prepared with a pot or vase to hold the water. Easy install. Washer runs perfect now. As quiet as when we bought it. I always try to fix before I re-buy, not a big green guy but I try to keep stuff working and out of land fills. Also the part was at my door in 1 day, Awsome!.

After unplugging the washer, the unit was pulled forward and tipped backwards, I placed a 2x4 under the washer to serve as a brace. I removed the existing bolts holding the old pump in place, removed the spring hose clams, unplugged the pump and removed the damaged part. inserted the new drain pump, re-inserted the bolts and tightened them, replaced the spring clamps with "regular" hose clamps supplied with the replacement part, plugged in the power supply, removed the brace, pushed back the unit and plugged it into the outlet. From start to finish - about 20 minutes. Was running wash about a half hour after I started.