Unplugged washer , used shop vac to drain water through drain hose on washer. Removed both hoses from old pump. Removed electric plug, removed 2 screws from bottom of the pump. Then reverse the process.
Drain pump on Whirlpool Duet washer (from 2008) gradually gave out. Needed replacement.
There is a video on this site that shows how to do the install. It is perfect and accurate. This pump is one of the easiest components to fix on this washer and it will save you money to do it yourself. Tech has told me twice to buy a new washer. This did the job. Make sure to take the time to fully drain the machine prior to doing this and make sure that you unplug your machine. To drain, just unscrew the cover on the front of the pump. If you start disconnecting hoses without draining you could have a mess on your hands depending on how much water is still in the washer. Use a shallow pan or bucket if your machine is on a pedestal. I have a floor drain in front of mine so I use a piece of foil to channel the water into it. After that, just do the install like the video. Also make sure to examine the reconnected hoses after you get done to make sure that they are solidly attached to the pump and that the base of the pump is tightly secured to the bottom of the machine. You have to secure the feet of the pump from the bottom which is why the video recommends putting blocks under the washer to have access to the bottom. Pump is great. Everything works well.
Removed top of washer. Removed top front panel. Removed old front panel clamp. Removed front door panel. Removed old tub clamp. Then removed torn tub seal. Installed new tub seal. Needed two sets of hands to install new tub seal. Pretty tight installing the new tub seal around drum lip. Might be a good idea to heat up or let your new tub seal soak in water prior to installation. Once tub seal was installed, I installed new tub clamp then re-installed the door switch. After that, I put the front door panel back on. Then tightened down the door switch. Finally, I installed the top front panel and then the top of the washer.
no drain, and pin hole in hose causing slight leak
The most time consuming part was fitting the hose back on because of the confined space. Once on the rest was a snap. The drain pump installed just the same as the video, so watch the video! I think in total it took about 30 minutes to complete.
Replacing the heat sensor following an F-24 Error Notice.
I followed your repair video explicitly, simple fix. However, one should be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" into the narrow slot which displaces the wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!
I followed the steps from online videos to determine where the leak was coming from (cleaned the pump filter, still leaking; checked gasket and inlet hoses).
Finally, I discovered a wet area and cut on the drum-to-pump hose. When I removed the hose, I found that the culprit was a credit card that had broken into shards and slit the side of the hose. I was happy to see it was from the previous owners, which meant it wasn't my fault!
I did have a hard time removing the clamps (double-wire "rotor clip" or "spring clamps", according to Google) holding the hose to the drum and pump. This became a problem when replacing the hose as well. I was not strong enough to squeeze the ends together to loosen the clamp.
Getting the old hose off was easy enough, as was putting the hose back on. The problem was clamping it back on, as I mentioned.
I tried using zip ties, but this was a disaster! I tested it using a rinse and spin cycle, and the zip tie seemed to hold. However, the hose slid off during the first full cycle I ran and dumped at least 15 gallons of water on the floor. Clean up was not fun!
My recommendation (and what I finally went with) is to use hose clamps with the small screw that lets you tighten the clamp with a screw driver. I used that on both the connection to the drum and the connection to the pump and I've had no issues since.
Overall, it's a quick fix once you have the hose replacement and the right parts. If I'd gotten the hose clamps right away, I could have been done in 30 minutes.
Removed the top cover of the washer, unclamped the intake hoses from the valves and unplugged their control wires, unscrewed the old valves and removed them from the case, screwed on the new valves, replugged the wires, reclamped the hoses, fastened the top back on.
After I received the part I removed the top panel of the washer. I then located the position of the old part. I proceeded to remove electrical connector and installed the new one which required no tools. Just to clear the water line, I blew into to it just to sure line is clear then reattached. That easy. Thanks Part Select.
I never did the repair because Partselect.com shipped the wrong part. Then they charged me a 2nd time to resend the correct part plus the fees for shipping the correct part overnight which I did not get it until 2 days later. Now I shipped both parts back & have to wait for a refund. I will never order from them again!
It didn't seem like the drum was spinning fast enough when washing a full load to wring all the water out of the clothes
I basically just followed the directions in the Parts Select video. The only thing that was a little difficult was getting the new belt to feed onto the drum pulley, but after a couple of tries I was able to get it on. I'm glad the video mentioned this might be a little difficult or I might have thought I was doing something wrong.
