WDF735PABB0 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Watched the video, it went as advertised. Easy repair and the noise is gone.

1.Check the lines for any obstruction. Gunk can easily build up. I have used the dishwasher for approx. 10 years. I do rinse/scrap dishes prior to loading.
2. Drain all remaining water.
3. Unplug the dishwasher.
4. Grab a towel and proper screw driver. Unscrew the bottom protective plate. Remove the insulation plate.
5. The drain pump is located to the bottom left. Have your towel under it. Unplug it gently. Turn counter clockwise to remove.
6. Install the new drain pump (reverse order)
7. Return the insulation plate. Screw back the bottom protective plate.
8. Plug in

no actual 'repair' was necessary, but, i was blown away at the speedy process of ordering and delivery of the part.

Simply made sure the cap was securely in place.

After pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet, I found it underneath near the back right side. I disconnected the old thermostat, unscrewed the clamp holding it into place, put the new thermostat in, screwed it back in and replaced the two plugs. Then I pushed the dishwasher back into place, and it initially didn't work until I found an online forum that was able to identify the reset command for my dishwasher (for the WDT710PAYM4, press any three buttons in a sequence of 1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3. After completing that all the lights lit up, and I shut the door leaving it for half an hour) Once the reset finished, the heated dry worked like it was suppose to.

A Mouse friend had seen fit to chew through the original drain line. I used my Model Number, and was able to order the correct part . It arrived the next day. The job itself is fairly straight forward. You will need to access the rear of the machine. This may include shutting off, and disconnecting the water supply line. (Adjustable wrench). Mine is under the sink, on the "Hot" side. You may also need to un-plug the unit. (recommended) . A pair of (Pliers) will be needed for the spring clamp.

I unscrewed the dishwasher from the counter (two screws under the countertop), and pulled it out about a foot so I could access the friction sleeve. I used a needle nosed pliers to slip a spring latch off the door. Then I slipped the new friction sleeve on and reattached the spring. Tested the door. Success! Super easy. About 5 minutes of work.

Prepared by watching the video. Great instructions. Great.

Disassembled easily as per video. Removed the old latch and installed the new.

Began the reassembly and learned that after ten or more years the small plastic parts used to keep the dishwasher steady had slowly deteriorated to the point that I was breaking these necessary items faster than I was putting the appliance back together.

What was a half hour task became over two hours and the end result was for me to put my tools away and buy a new dishwasher the next day. I learned that if your appliance is over ten years old BUY A NEW ONE!

Great job by the people who make and sell the latch parts for you who own a dishwasher that is only a few years old.

Thank you Part Select.

Very easy repair, take out old seal replace with new insuring the seal in pressed in tightly, while installing. corners were a little tricky.

I pulled the upper rack out of the dishwasher. I then removed the broken rack clip stop on the right side and reinstalled the new replacement clip. I then put the rack back onto the rollers and voila, the upper rack no longer fell down off of the tracks!! Problem solved and the replacement clip only cost $8.95!!

Removed the old tines by pushing out the clips on the end and then installed the new tines and applied clips - took 10 minutes worked slick and the washer basket looks to be brand.

Removed old part and replaced with new part

Sorry -- but my 5 yearold replaced this broken item -- He helped by slipping off the old broken one and sliding in the new one -- No tools were necessary -- after all it was the silverware basket ...

Looked under machine, saw wire going to heater was burned off.Seal on heater failed, water leaked onto terminal, shorted and burned, ruined plastic terminal nut.Replaced heater and wire terminal, and nut, took minutes, works great.

First I identified the problem by checking the plug ends of the heater coil with an ohm meter. I quickly odered the part and when it arrived a few days later, I simply pulled off the electrical connectors, unscrewed the two bolts, removed the old/broken coil, put in the new coil and tightened down the nuts snuggly.
Nothing to it. I then had to reset the error code and it is working like new.