e.g. First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...) that were easy
Replacement of Defective Water Valve (i.e. water wouldn't stop flowing into the washer)
1. Disconnected Water Hoses (Hot & Cold). Needed a wrench to initially loosen and then used my hand to remove them. 2. Opened the Control Panel, by unscrewing and removing the cover. 3. Pulled out the two electrical plugs (labelled which one goes where with a tape) connected to the old water valve. 4. Pulled out a tiny hose connected to the old water valve (by loosening a clamp that held the hose tight with a pair of pliers). 5. Removed the old valve, put in the new. Reattached the hose, the electrical plugs, closed the control panel, and reattached the hot & cold water hoses. 6. Problem solved.
First I unpluged the unit then I remove the hot and cold water hoses from the back. I removed the torx head screws that hold the control cover at the top of the washer, then I located the water valve. Once I located the water valve I took the 2 phillips head screws that hold it in place out , unpluged the electrical connecters took the water supply hose off. I then removed the old valve and replaced it with a new one.Then I put everything back together. very simple job 10 minutes tops.
This was a easy job for the do it your selfer. I had no problem the part ,it was like the same one I took off. Now I know where to come for parts . It was perfect . Thanks again
Use flat head screw driver to push in clips that hold on front panel. use plyers to remove hose clamps on motor and remove hoses. use nut driver and remove two screws holding bracket in place. disconnect two wire plugs. Install motor and work above in reverse. very simple 15min job at most.
First I found out on the web how to open the washer's front cover. For the strap in the front, it's relatively easy to replace a strep if your hands are somewhat flexible. For the one in the back, I also needed to open the top dial panel, in order to lift the main lid connected to it, in order to then be able to reach one of the screws of the back strap. the other one of its screws I was able to reach from the front with a ratchet and extension from the front. Arms do get heavy from time to time, but overall it was manageable.
The after school director told me of the washing machine flooding. It took only a bit to find the hose that was leaking--a little longer to figure out where it went. It was the bleach line to the drum from the little bowl under the lid. It had pulled off.
I noticed that three of the four tub dampening straps (little rubber bungees) were broken. PartsSelect had a good exploded view of the washer that helped me locate the correct part and order it. They were shipped quickly.
Start with the machine empty of water and unplugged.
The front of the washer pops off (most have a removable top but this GE did the front instead). This exposes two screws to remove in order to lift and remove the top, exposing the tub. While you lift the lid, you have to remove the bleach line from the pocket at the front of the machine. It helped to unplug the machine and remove the lid switch to make access easier. It has two screws holding the assembly to the lid.
The straps are on the four corners of the tub, attached by hex-head screws. The two in the back aren't as easy to access. A stubby nutdriver would have helped for the screws that were upside down holding the straps to the frame. The straps were replaced and all the parts put back.
The washer is quieter and shakes much less. It was ready for the Christmas dinner washing later in the week.
1, remove agitator. 2 on top of the agitiataor coupling you will see a bolt. Rap lightly with a hammer and with vice grips gently remove the bolt. why vice grips if its been in there for awhile this will be your best choice. No worries the kit comes with a new one.3 Pull the coupling sraight up and out. 4. Align the splines of the new coupling with shaft and gently tap the new one on. 5 Lube the oring and tighten bolt. 6 align the splines of the agitator and gently seat the agiator all the way down. might take awhile to align everything. trouble shooting tip remove the front cover, turn machine on and hold the agitator, no, not the kid, the one in the machine. If the agitator stops moving but the machine continues to work and the belt or pump shaft turns its the coupling.
Reading all the other stories helped me get started. One tip I want to share is when removing the old coupler, I held on to a pulley puller by hand. I hooked the jaws underneath; while I pulled up on it, I would tap with a hammer on either side of the old coupler. This gave me the leverage needed to make it pop right off.
Remove screws from front panel, removed two screws holding valve in place, "found it would be easier to remove upper back panel also to get the hose clamp back on", Disconnected wires and reconnected to new valve, put the screws in rear and front panel, hocked up the supply lines and done. Worked great. Took me maybe 5 min. from start to finish
1- Shut off water and unplug unit 2- Wedge flat head screwdriver in between front panel and side panel of washer and remove the front. (1 minute) 3- Get a towel and a bucket (if you still have water in it) and drain remaining water from back of washer first... Then be prepared for about 20oz more of water when disconnecting the old pump. (5 minutes) 4- disconnect old pump it will look slightly different then the one you bought! (3 minutes) 5- re attach new pump with the same hose clamps and reattach the front panel (5 minutes) 6- fill it with some water/ spin it out
15 minutes - 30 minutes tops! Good luck Matt East Islip NY
I pulled the top off of the washer and found that my leak was coming from a small hole in the hose and water inlet. I had to remove 2 small bolts and a hose clamp to remove the old part,I did the reverse to install new part.
Washer wasnt draining properly, yet you could hear the pump turning.
Blowing hard into the drain hose would force the water off the impeller and allow the pump to reach proper speed to correctly drain. Start by unplugging the machine. To replace the pump, I simply removed the front cover of the washer. There are 2 clips to release along the top of the cover, then carefully pry forward and then lift it off the bottom clips. There are two wires which were a bit stubborn to remove. Carefully wiggle and pull with pliers, and be sure to note which one goes where. There were 2 bolts to attach the pump to the machine, which I removed using a 1/4" drive socket set, the size of the bolt head escapes me - on the small side anyhow. Also two squeeze clamps holding 2 hoses, which were easily removed using pliers. Pull the hoses and watch a pint to a quart of water dump out on the floor. Reverse the process to install. The hoses are tucked back in there, so you may want a flashlight to make sure you get the clamps back on correctly. Replace the front cover, and dont forget to plug the machine back in and you are ready to rock.
