W30400PF Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

Turn off power to the stove. Pop off the burner knobs and remove the screws attaching the controls to the front panel. Open the oven door and remove the four screws attaching the panel to the oven frame. The panel slides down giving easy access to the circuit board. Remove the two connectors and the ribbon cable attached to the board. There are small clips on the side of the ribbon cable connector that release the ribbon cable. Unscrew the board and install new board. Reattach the cables, put the panel back in place and attach. Reattach the burner controls to the panel, pop the knobs back on, power the stove back on, put on a pair of sunglasses to view the now blazingly bright display and admire your work.

Turned off power to stove
Removed control knobs and retaining screws under the knobs.
Opened oven door.
REmoved screws (4) holding the face plate to the stove.
pulled the panel downwards.
Unscreewed clock circuit board.
Removed connectors (3) (See Below)
NOTE the flat ribbon needs to be removed by pinching the ends of the black connector , liftiing and GENTLY pulling the ribbon out of the connector. The black connector remains on the circuit board.
When in stalling the ribbon, pinch the ends of the black connector and lift slightly, insert ribbon, then push down on the loose side of the connector until it snaps shut ,forming a tight connection.

Reverse steps

Turned power off to oven, removed control knobs, took out four screws under panel. Removed four 1/4" sheetmetal screws. Removed front cover, Removed two additioanl screws that held front cover to corner bracketts, Removed two screws that held clock to plate, removed each wiring harness and pluged into new part, unplugged wiring ribbon from old part plugged into new. reassembled. Turned power back on and tested and we had light!!!One repair company was going to charge us over $400 to make this repair!!!

Remove four screws behind control knobs. Remove four hex nuts under control panel (open oven door to locate). Pull control panel down and out. Remove two hex nuts holding clock assembly. Remove three wire connectors on the old clock assembly and carefully insert on new clock assembly. Reverse instructions to re-assemble. It's a breeze to do! Took longer to get my tool box than the time it took to replace the clock assembly.

First I took the screws off of the top hood which can be found right underneatch, this allowed me to access the panel bolts and unscreww them. We then got it far enough so that we could easily replace the old with the new and plug things back in and we were good to go. I am not sure but we must have save hundreds of dollars in a repairman.. This website is awesome..

installed part,turned unit on-temp still cold. reset digital control, up 35 degrees, still cold. un-plugged unit,re-connect after 10 min. still cold.

Spoke to your very helpful staff, who advised me that a likely problem was the oven sensor. I took a chance and ordered the part, which came promptly. Your service video for the part was most helpful in my decision to try the part. Installation was a breeze, but it was the oven controller board that had failed and not the oven sensor. That called for a service professional, who ultimately fixed the problem. Your service though, was excellent and I would highly recommend you to others.

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

My wife help take the door off. It was a little heavy . The door came apart very easy and went back the same way.We save over $300 by doing it our selfs.

Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.

Extremely simple repair to make. Move stove away from wall and disconnect power. Remove the oven racks. Remove the rear sheet metal panel covering the wiring harnesses. Caution: Sharp edges and corners on sheet metal.Sensor is located in upper left corner on rear oven wall. Using a long-shafted #2 Philips screwdriver, remove the two Philips head screws and gently pull the sensor 1" away from the oven wall. At this point, it will help to have an assist from someone while you are behind the range. Have the assistant gently tug on the sensor while you watch for wires moving on the rear of the range. After locating the sensor wires, gently disconnect the plastic connector clip. Note: plastic connectors become brittle with age and exposure to heat Move to front of range and gently remove sensor from rear wall by pulling the wiring through the oven wall. Before inserting the new sensor wire through the oven wall, "dry fit" the wiring connectors to see that the new sensor is a correct connection. Make connection, and secure the sensor to the rear oven wall with the two screws. Install racks, reinstall rear sheet metal panel, and connect the power. Set the oven baking temperature to a moderately low temp, 300 - 350 deg. to test the new sensor.

I removed the two mounting screws and pulled the harness through the opening unsnapped the sensor from the harness and installed the new sensor i didn't have to used the adapters the new sensor fitted

Although only one side hinge had snapped, I replaced both sides with new oven door hinges. Followed the website video installation directions and all went well; the new hinges work perfectly.

I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!