W30400PF Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

The sensor inserts into a slot in the back side of the range. By removing screws on the heat shield on the backside of the range, the sensor wires will be exposed can be unplugged. Then remove the screws that attach the sensor to the back inside panel in the oven. Next, pull the old sensor out. The wire leads will get caught on the insulation blanket, no big deal. Reverse the process to install the new sensor. The new sensor comes with two connector sets for the wiring. I did the whole job for less than the cost of a service call.

We watched the video demo & followed it step by step. The project took about 35 minutes and we replaced the hinge on each side of the oven. First we removed the oven from the wall, then dismantled it & cleaned it thoroughly, removed the old hinges and replaced with new ones. the only problem we had was that the pin holding the hinge open was missing on one of the hinges, but we cut a nail and inserted it to hold the hinge open. The job was completed quickly, and the oven door fits and works well. Thanks for the video--it really helped us.

I searched Whirlpool, Sears and random appliance stores and Part Select was the only company to have the lens available. All other manufacturers said the lens was no longer manufactured as a stand alone piece and I would have to buy the entire light assembly. Thank you Parts Select!!!!!

1. I removed the 4 Philip head screws that hold the trim plate on the bottom of the display panel and also removed the knobs from the display panel. 2. Then I removed the 4 hex screws from the bottom of the front panel 3. Remove the display panel and expose the Electronic clock. 4. Remove the two hex screws hold the clock. Moved the clock, then remove the three connections to the clock. 5 Attach the connections to the new clock and reassemble everything in reverse. Take about 20-30 minutes. Not a difficult job.

I removed the old sensor via the two screws holding it in, unplugged it and replaced it with a new one.

The hardest part was deciding if this part would fix the problem. The upper oven became unusable. Both elements worked fine until reaching temperature. The oven would not come back on after that. I took two screws out. Then I pulled the wires out and unsnapped the coupling. The install was reverse. I just snapped the coupling in place and replaced the two screws. All works fine now. Saved a couple thousand as wife was prepared to buy a new one.

Opened oven door. Inserted a small bent nail into the small holes on the hinge. This locks the hinge from closing all the way. Removed the chrome hinge retaining plates. One at each hinge. Lifted the door off the oven. Laid door on towel. Removed 3 screws from the top of door, three screws from the bottom of door. This allows you to separate the two pieces of the door. Clean all glass surfaces, including the ones under the middle glass panel. Removed 1 screw from each hinge at bottom of door. Pull hinge from bottom of door after removing screws. Insert new spring at top of door first, replace retaining screw. Realign the two door parts and replace all screws. Set door back on hinge pocket. Be careful to insure that the hinge seats into the pocket. Open door just enough to replace retaining plates. Process was easy, but it did not fix the problem completely. Bought heavy magnets from hardware store and installed them inside the door. This with the new hinge fixed the problem.

Loosen two screws to remove door. Removed outside trim and other outside screws hold center panel in place. Removed one screw holding hinge in place. Screwed new hinge in place. Re-attached center panel to outside trim and hung door. Easy enough.

Turned off breaker,opened door with bent coat hanger by sliding right to left the coat hanger to open the door, remover 2 screws holding in the sensor in upper left corner of the oven. Remove the sensor (gently) with the wire connection from back of oven pulling sensor out a out 8 inches . Disconnect plug. Install new sensor with matched harness /.connection, installed 2 screws ,turned on breaker.

Slowly disassemled door from outside in. This included removing the section below the door to access the screws that were inserted vertically into the bottom of the door. There are hex screws and phillips head. There were several pieces of glass in the door that had to be removed to get to the inner glass. We finally lifted out a frame that held the broken piece and one other. Working on a flat surface we unlatched a small tab in one corner (pliers) and unwrapped frame just enough to release broken sheet. Wearing gloves we removed all the broken glass and gently inserted new piece. Realigning the other piece of glass we gently closed the frame reinserting the tab of metal and securing. Would HAVE to have two people to do this! We then reassembled the door reversing the process. Note: It is a SMALL hex screw.

I replaced the oven sensor which was easy to replace. A pigtail wire was provided with the sensor which is intended to be installed first so you don't have to reach around the front and back of the oven at the same time. The replacement was easy. However, that turned out not to be the problem. The real problem was the maytag electronic clock control timer, temperature control unit. The part number is 7601P177-60. This device has been discontinued and I was fortunate enough to find the part at a local supplier. Once I replaced this, the problem went away. The oven heats up normally. My original symptom was that when setting the oven temperature to something like 350 degrees, the display would rapidly report heating up the oven to that temperature, and the oven was only mildly warm. If you have that symptom, it is probably not the oven sensor. It is the electronic clock unit. Hope you can find one. If you can't, I think you need to by a new oven. Regards

Remove sensor from oven. Disconnected wire from back. Connected new sensor and reinstalled. Temps now stay stable.

Open oven door, under the lip below the control panel there are 4 Phillips head screws and 4- 1/4" screws. If you have a screwdriver with interchangeable tips, you can use it for both fasteners. Remove the Phillips head screws first, Trim piece will drop down, clean while you have it out. Remove the 1/4" screws, the control panel will drop out about 4", it will be able to rotate towards you, you will see the display unit. Using a pointed knife, slightly pry the clip away and remove the two wired plugs. on the ribbon connector, on each side there are tabs, push these in and pull up not more than 1/8", the ribbon will pop out or take VERY little to remove, it is difficult, make sure the tabs on both sides are up. Remove the display via 1/4" screws. Reverse the process with the new unit but, make sure the tabs are up on the ribbon connector, this is the only thing I had problems with, took me about 3 min to figure it out. new display came with a "Static Electricity" warning. MAKE SURE YOU TOUCH THE FRAME OF THE OVEN BEFORE YOU TOUCH THE NEW DISPLAY UNIT TO AVOID STATIC DISCHARGE AND PROTECT YOUR NEW UNIT.

Watched the video and it was as easy as described. Not many things go as easily as this.

Unlike many here, the oven door closed enough to come up to temperature quickly and I could not feel any heat escaping. The oven worked fine but the light stayed on because the door just wasn't snug enough. I watched the great how-to video and ordered the hinges. They arrived in two or three days! I set up a work space, cued up the video again and the new hinges were installed in just a few minutes! But the door would not close enough to turn the light off! I did some more googling around and found the magnet trick! I just happened to have the perfect size magnet from a broken souvenir magnet! and now the light stays off! I stuck the magnet (about the size of a nickel) inside the door opposite the light button. This won't help if you have serious problems with the oven door, but it works if the only problem is the light!