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rinse cycle was not expelling the water
remmoved the screws on the back that hold the panel on. removed the two hoses attched to the pump. removed three screws and pulled the pump out. spun the pulley and noticed no movement inside. looked closer at the pulley to notice it was broken. ordered new pulley online. received quickly. new part fit exacttly right. put three screws back in. hooked two hoses back up. put belt on pulley. plugged in and worked great.
took back off washer with nutdriver, pulled wires off by hand, ( was unplugged ). pliars used to remove hose, regular clamp put back on. reinstalled back plugged in, tested water,,,, done
The washer was jumping all over the place and leaking water during the spin cycle
I took out the agitator first, then I took out the inner tub, next I took out the outer tub, and last I took out the transmission assembly. After replacing the snubber I put the transmission assembly back on, then the new outer tub and next the inner tub. Last I put the agitator back on.
Washing machine was noisy (metal on metal) after the tub filled up and the motor engaged for the wash cycle.
I unplugged the machine, tipped it back slightly and rested in on a gallon paint can. I inspected the under side and manually advanced the fan belt to hear if I could hear the noise at the water pump. The pump pulley and shaft was worn and there were metal shavins (small) on surface of pulley.
Then I removed the belt from the pulley, rested the machine back to normal position, removed front panel (two sheet metal screws on inside top), removed the water pump hoses (htere is water int he hose & pump assembly so you will get some water on floor.
Then I removed the pump and ordered a new one. The installation was the reverse, machine works like new and the washer tub spins better than ever during the final rinse and spin, since the worn water pump was binding and stressing the machine.
Thanks to Part Select - Your website is awesome and your service instructions and user advice gave me the confidence to do the repair myself. I saved $150 - $250 for the repair.
Disconnected the power plug. Turned off the hot & cold hose water supply. Put down old bath towel. Disconneced hoses from machine inlet valve. Opened entire top for access to electrical connections & fill hose. Replaced inlet valve, new wire connectors. Replaced the hot & cold water hoses.
Pop the top of the washer and use the nutdriver to remove the two screws holding the frontpanel on. Use the nutdriver for two more screws holding the plastic motor cover on. Use nutdriver for the two BIG screws holding the motorplate to the washer frame. After this, I literally beat/chiped/sawed the old motor geat off. Once that was done, I put the new one on; had to use a hammer to knock it all the way on (try not to damage the clips). Reassemble everything. Flip washer over and place bet around two smaller gears. Rotate main tub gear to feed belt on. Make sure you use the nutdriver to loosen/tighten the motor positioner screws in the slots if things aren't working here. The only really hard thing was taking the old motor gear off.
Removed the front panel to get some light in to the machine. Removed the two hoses connecting the pump to the drain and tub. Removed the three screws holding the old pump in place. Did the reverse to install. This was a piece of cake. Thanks for having the parts needed to do this job. Tom
Removed the inner basket and outer tub to replace the gasket and rubber seal. just had to remove about a dozen screws to get it out.
Tipped the machine up to replace the belt. The noise didn't go away at first. I decided to spray all the pulleys with some silicone spray, that did the trick.
Replacing the pump with the new pump was very easy for me, because of my degree in Mechanical engineering, so I am use to dealing with pumps, engines, gears,etc. However, my wife watched me do the entire job and she is now able to replace this part in the future. The design of the Maytag is very simple to repair, and for that I am very greatful that we can order the parts and do the repairs ourselves withhout having to call a repairman. This was our first problem after 6 years of smooth operations by this washer.
Hardest part was figuring out how to get to the water valve. Turned out that the way in was from the top. All I had to do is remove two screws at the back of the top panel, and then unclip the front edge of the top panel (use a thin screwdriver to press in on the clips from the front of the machine). From there, it was easy to reach down inside and remove/replace the valve.
Removed access panel to expose pump, removed drive belt, and old pump, repeated the avove steps in reverse order, tested for leaks and proper operation.
First , I unlocked top cover and propped; removed front cover. tilted machine back propping front. pump is at lower right corner, removed both hoses, removed belt and three screws. reversed order completing job. You will have some water leakage removing hoses.
Disconnect all water supply and unplug washer. Remove 3 screws on back panel of the washer. This will expose the pump unit. Detach belt on the bottom of the washer. Then detach two hoses that connects to the pump unit. Use pliers if necessary to disconnect hoses. Use 5/16 socket with extension to take out three bolts the connect pump to the washer. That's it, now replace old pump unit and with new. Place bolts back in the 3 holes, reattached hoses, cover the back with 3 scres. Connect the belt to the pulley system on the bottom. Connect water supply and plug it in.
Pulled that sucker out from the wall and leaned him back just enough to prop a case a beer under it. Slid up under there with the biggest dust bunny I ever seen. Yanked that old belt off and threw it away. Tried to uncoil the new one and it slapped me in the nose! Got it uncoiled and around the two smaller pulleys pulling the adjustable one in to it's limit and walked the belt around the big drum pulley. By the time my wife put down her coffee and came to see if she can lend me a hand I was done!.