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occasional failure to light-wife didn't trust it.
Removed oven door. (two screws) Removed racks. Removed oven floor. (two finger screws) Removed diverter (V) tray. (one nut) Removed small panel @ left lower back of oven (1 screw) to access elect. power disconnect. Disconnected power. Removed element (two square drive screws) Snipped and stripped old wires, connected new with ceramic wire nuts supplied. Installed new element, reversed proceedure. Oven lights in 10 seconds. Wife happy! Probably 40 minutes, could do it again in15-20 once you know what tools to lay out.
I removed the four phillips screws to seperate the oven door sections (that lets the door handle drop off too.) and then took out four hex head screws that hold the glass bracket in place. I had to lift out the front glass to reach the broken back glass. After that, I just slipped the new glass into position and reversed the procedure. It took about 25 minutes. It took just about 25 minutes counting the time it took me to find a hex head nut driver. I'm willing to bet it saved me a bundle, too.
All visible screws on sides & top of door, including screws for the door handle have to be removed. Fairly uncomplicated job, but as the glass that needed to be replaced, was 4th of 4 layers of glass, all needed to be removed from the outside in, in sequence, to get to the broken piece. Then as long as everything was apart, cleaned all pieces, before reassembling. Job much easier with two people, as one can hold & align all layers together, as the other tightens all the screws.
Oven would not light and gas would not come through.
I unplugged the stove then pulled the disconnected the wires that controled the igniter. I took the two screws off that held the igniter to the pilot port. I hand to cut the wires on the new igniter to some-what match the lenght of the broken igniter. Then I cut the connectors from the old part and used the fire resistant wire nutes that where included with the new igniter and connected it all. Put all the screws in tight, double checked every thing. Finally I plugged it in and it was working.
Removed racks,oven bottom(2 screws) and heat deflecter. Slide heat sleeves 10 inches away from old igniter. Cut wires one inch longer than the length of the heat sleeves, from the old igniter. Cut the new wires to match old wire length. Replace old igniter. Slide sleeves up to new igniter. Wire nut ends-done deal. It was hard working over the oven door,but I am old. Good luck
Turned the gas and the electricity off to the gas range. Took the two large screws out in the back of the range holding on the first pan. Have to look for them. Took off the single nut holding on the second pan. Used nut drive #10 to take off nuts. Be careful you do not lose them. Took off inoperative unit. Cut wires to unit. Stripped wires which connect to range. Put new unit on and tightened nuts with nutdriver. Spliced wires together and put on wire nuts securely. Taped them to the wires. Put the second pan back, then the first pan. Turned on gas and electricity to test. Worked fine. Found that the old unit was cracked and had a piece missing. Must use flashlight. Be safe.
oven took longer and longer to ignite ,then just stopped.
took out the cove plate inside oven. romoved old igniter load.cutt and stripped new wire to new ignighter , using ceramic wire nuts supplied. reinstalled all and voila. it's as good as new. PS just for safety sake always unplug appliance from power.
My Oven Was Taking Too Long To Heat Up,I Was Smelling Gas,Which Is The First And Last Warning
Simple repair ,unplug unit,cut the 2 wires close to heating element,remove elements 2 screws w/1/4 inch nut driver. Cut and strip 2 wires back about 1/2 inch,be sure to cut wires close to element,wirenut both wires together. Reinstalled element,plug unit back in. Done . . . 12 Minutes,ready to bake a cake. .
The ignitor came on with a call for heat but the gas valve did not open
First turn the thermostat off-cut the wires leading to the ignitor, close to the ignitor side-Remove the two 1/4" monting bracket screws and remove the ignitor install the new ignitor using the same 1/4" screws and reconnect the wires leading into the ignitor, note the polarity is not imp[ortant--use the heat temp-wire nuts provided--close the door and call for heat the gas valve is working fine now....
First i removed the broiler door and then I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and cut the two wires. I strip the ends ,connected the new unit with ceramic nuts that was provided an reconnected the unit. all was done in less than 30 min. EASY!!! plug the stove back in and WORKED PERFECTLY. note i receive the unit the same day it shipped....WOW
first i removed the bottom of the oven [inside the oven] ,the part was right there,i removed 2 screws and unpluged the wires,then i cut the wire ends off the old part and used the wirenuts that came with the new one to hook them to the new part,then put it back in place,put the screws back in put the bottom back in and was done
ignitor wears out, tenants use the stoves as heat sorce
Opened the oven, removed the bottom plate located the ignitor within arms reach, removed two screws and a snap out part. replaced with the new ignitor and put the stove bottom on and waala...DONE I have ordered all my parts from Parts Select and have never had a problem. Thank you. Jody in Montana
Removed broiler pan drawer,removed two screws on element unplugged wires,installed new one. ,Tried oven, works like it did when new. It couldn't have been easier,plus I saved a bunch of money thank you partselect mike m.
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Then I reattached the new piece. It was the easiest thing ever and i'm a woman!
First I removed the two screws that held the element in place.I then pulled the element out and cut the wires.I used wire nuts to put the new wirers on and put it back in place with the two screws.I tried it and it worked perfect.
