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Oven drawer fell out
Removed the one remaining drawer guide and stared at it for 10 minutes trying to understand where it came from and how it worked. Looked it up on partselect.com. While there was no part number, the detailed photo on your web site was enought to assure me that you had the correct part. Ordered them in a few moments and three days later I had the parts. The hardest part of the job was trying to understand how to install the widgets. After 20 minutes to crawling around in the stove's inards, I finally got the "aha" and the drawer on this antique stove was finished. Thanks! Couldn't have done it without you.
I went all the way around the unit and removed screws holding top of unit in place. Removed knobs holding front panel in place. Remove control panel. top should come off. Remove screws attaching element top and metal frame. Undo bracket and remove element. Disconnect wires. Remember where they were attached. Replace element and reverse steps.
i had to remove all the broken glass then removed the metal that was holding the glass. set the new glass in the metal strips and screwed it back togethr. i also had to remove the frame from the door in order to get to the inside glass. then i had to put the door back together.
The repair was fairly easy. The oven door was attached to a spring arm that had one screw holding each arm to the door. Once off, the outside set of screws were removed and saved in a small dish. Each section had 6-10 screws, to it's best to keep each set separate from each other. Each of the three layers (of the door) came apart easily by removing the screws for each section. The inside (broken glass) lifted out, was replaced, and the sequence was repeated in reverse. During the reassembly I was able to clean the other layers of glass that had gotten build-up on them over the years. Total time start to finish was about 30 minutes. Only tool required was a screw driver! Probably saved 100+ dollars!
Disconnected power. Removed hold down fasteners for stove top. Fortunately, I did not flue down or use the double back tape to secure stovetop to counter. If this adhesive were used, it is possible I would have had great difficulty in removing range. I did not disconnect the wiring, but turned the range top over to access the cover. I removed the cover and easily removed the failed burner and installed the new ones. I had to pull 4 wires from the terminal strip and reattach them. The hold down strap for the burner was reinstalled. Range top turned back over and fastened down. Back in service.
My husband removed the old one in a few minutes, the just popped the new one in when it came. Not for nothing, (where we purchased the stove) wanted $67 for the same part you all charged $49.00
First I unpluggd the range and removed the back cover using a nut driver. Then I removed the knob by pulling (using a little force),Not very hard to do. I uscrewed two screws that hold the switch from the front of the range. Then I pulled the switch out about three inches and used pliers to disconnect the wires one at a time and connect them to the new switch. finally I finished the installation by reversing all the steps. Total time to install the switch took approximately 5(five) minutes.
First i removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I the pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnect the 2 wires. The new one didn't come with the little holders at the front of the element and were very hard to get loose from the old element .i finally got them back on the new one and put it back in the stove. Pretty simple job though.
It was a little difficult by my self an extra hand would of made it much easier.I unscrewed the screws pulled the wires from the back of the oven which took a few minutes.I am not great at fixing things but once I got the old one out it went smoother than I expected.it took about 25-30 minutes with an extra hand could have made it 10 minutes.not bad over all for me.did I mention not very handy.did stun the wife that I fixed it on my own.thanks Bill
Both front burners began heating too fast and too high. One damaged the finish on the splash pan.
At the Frigidaire parts website, I found the parts and saw that there are videos that show how to replace the burner controls. In brief: 1) Slide the range/oven out so you can get to the back of the control hood. 2) There are three screws that hold the cover in place (the video showed four). 2a) The video also suggests using a #1 square bit. I found that there was indeed a square hole in the caps of the screws, but they also had a hex head that a 1/4" hex nut driver fits. So I used that. 2b) Be careful taking out the last (top center) screw. When it comes free, the cover can drop and bruise or cut your foot or the floor. Having a helper is worth it! 3) The switch for the larger elements has a red dot on front and back. Match it with the one in place that has a red dot. The switch for the small element doesn't have a dot. 3a) Holding a new switch in your hand, remove one wire at a time from the switch in the control hood and put it in the same place on the new switch. I found that for my stove, there was a fixture holding two wires and another holding three wires. This made it impossible to put the wires on wrong. 3b) When all wires have been transferred, pull off the control knob in front and unscrew the two screws that hold the old switch in place. Take out the old switch and replace it with the new switch. 3c) Use the two screws to attach the new switch in its place and replace the control knob. 4) Repeat for as many switches as you purchased. I did all four. 5) Replace the cover. 6) Slide the range back into place.
I found black deposits on all the switches, that must have come from a contactor inside, so I was glad I replaced them all.
Another tip: while the unit is out, clean off the sides and back that you couldn't get to while it was in place. For us, this took as long or longer than the steps above for replacing the switches.