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SWS1233CQ0 Westinghouse Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the SWS1233CQ0
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water not turning off
Two small clamps holding the top onto the body were removed with two screws. I lifted the top and held it up with a small piece of board. Two screws were removed on the back top left that hold the water inlet valve in place. Once those were removed I reached inside and removed the two plugged in wires and and lifted the part out. At this point I used pliers to unclamp the hose that fed into the washer. I then reversed the process and put in the new part. Works great. Thanks a lot for making the part I needed easy to find. I am now a true fans of your website.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • Anita from Orange, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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water dripping into the tub when off
Shut off water to washer....unplug power cord...pulled washer from wall out into room....removed 2 water supply hoses....removed 2 top retaining clip screws on rear top of cabinet.....lifted rear end of top panel up approx 5 inches......propped up with small pieces of cut up 2X4 lumber.....did not disconnect any wiring related to the control panel...remove 2 screws holding valve to cabinet back panel......lift valve up and out of cabinet by the tub fiil hose.....disconnect 2 wire plugs, mark these upper, lower or hot /cold......disconnect the tub fill hose....remove the back panel-to-valve bracket off the old valve and install on the new valve and reverse this procedure!!! The new valve flows water better and faster, the wash is done quicker!!
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • George from St. Louis, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Water would not shut off
Unplug washer. Remove supply lines. Remove two screws in back and remove clips holding top of washer. Front of washer top is held by two clips. Release top from clips and slide top towards the front. Remove two screws holding the water inlet valve to the back of the washer. Lift unit out and remove clamp and hose. Install new unit in reverse of removal.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • Todd from Eagle River, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Front load washer continued to fill with water until door failed. Major Flood
Removed screws at back securing top panel (4).

Removed screws holding water inlet valve to back of machine (2)

Removed water hoses to bucket

Removed squeeze clamp securing water distribution hose from inlet valve

Reversed method with new valve.

Very fast...~25 min
Works fine so far!
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • Malcolm from Shelley, ID
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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water would not shut off causing door to pop open and spill all over the floor
The repair would have gone much easier if I did not have a stack dryer on top of the washer. Had to roll out the total unit and work with the dryer partly on top. Only needed minimal work and tools after that.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • Joe from Interlaken, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Wouldn't drain completely and wouldn't final spin
before you buy any parts do this first..turn on your washing machine,then push and hold start and pause at the same time.An error code will come up,look in your book and see what that code represents. Mine came up 47.that error for my machine was the door switch.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump - 120V 60 Hz.
  • frank from fostoria, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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worn belt and broken lid strike
The longest part was cleaning and taking the washer apart , the screws were rusted to the bottom of the washer front,had to spray and pound on screws to get them out.after cleaning dirt and rust in the washer I greased the idle pulley.Putting on the belt was a snap.I also had to repair a leg screw that keeps the washer level, Washer runs like a new washer. very Pleased with the results. Its like having an old washer restored to new. it looks and sounds like a new washer.It took less then 5 mins to change the lid strike.
Parts Used:
Drive V-Belt Lid Strike - White
  • Linda from Scio, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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We smelled rubber burning when I did laundry.
It was easy. No problem getting the to v-belt.
Parts Used:
Drive V-Belt
  • Willie L from Sledge, MS
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Replace belt
Hard to reach around the motor and gear box to attach the belt and pulley not much room. Harder to put the front pannel back on than take off
Parts Used:
Tension Idler Pulley
  • Gregory from Piscataway, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
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The water would not drain or spin out all the way
Had to take the front and back panel off the washer. A couple of clamps and electrical plug in came off and then the motor. Put the new motor on plugged it back in and put on the clamps put the panels back on and was able to wash a load of clothes. It is now quiet and spins the clothes out as if it was brand new.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump - 120V 60 Hz.
  • sherry from ellenburg depot, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Replace water inlet valve.
Took off back of washer. Control panel and top. Disconnected hot and cold water inlet hose. Pulled offwire leads. Unscrewed valve from washer. installed new valve. Reconnected wire leads. connected hoses. put top back on. put back of washer and control panel back on. Reconnected water. Done. Nothing too difficult. just a little time consuming. Space was an small issue in the laundry room.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • James from Lutz, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Water would not drain or washer would not spin
Pulled off back panel and found that the Drain pump had some how came loose, so I found screws and tried but still wouldn't work check pump for blockage couldn't find and but could hear the pump hum so figured the pump went bad. the hardest part was getting the squeeze type clamps off or it would have been a 30 minute job. I orederd new part and it came fed ex next day and put in and changed the bellows clamp to worm gear and made it a lot easier going in. Started washer and ran just like it was supposed to.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump - 120V 60 Hz.
  • William from Amanda, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Washer won't drain
My wife done the repair while I was out of town. She never tries to won't on anything in fear that she will mess it up.But she said she had it fixed in ten minutes. Just take the hoses off the pump, unplug, and unbolt where mounted. Then reverse to put on new one. Partselect is always very prompt to sent my parts and I have never had an issue with anything. I will buy all my parts from them from now on.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump - 120V 60 Hz.
  • Ashley from Ripley, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
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Washer Dryer Combo. Washer would not agitate.
Checked drive belt by removing two screws on the BOTTOM of the front panel. Would spin dry but not agitate. Motor is two directional. Spin one way, agitate the other way. Same belt, so not the belt. Removed the agitator and the drive was turning but not the agitaor. It APPEARED that the agitator drive block was part of the agitator. IT IS NOT. Tap out the drive block,(Part # PSii52574)by threading a long bolt with the same threads as the screw that held the agitator to the drive assembly. Gently tap and the drive block will drop out. Replace the Agitator drive block. Worked like new for $21.32 + SH. The old agitator drive block was broken in pieces thus not allowing the agitator drive to turn the agitator back and forth. Did not need the Agitator, agitator screw or agitator spacer. Easy fix. No experience necessary. Cliff
Parts Used:
Agitator Screw Agitator Agitator Spacer
  • Mary Lou from Rangeley Plantation, ME
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Noisy spin cycle
Used flat head screw driver to pry up the top. Removed front cover. Pushed tension idler pulley back to release tension on the belt. Removed old belt. Put new belt on motor pulley and idler pulley. Started one edge on main pulley and slowly rotated main pulley until the belt popped in place. Tested on spin cycle. Replaced front cover and top. Unfortunately, this didn't stop the noise...turned out a shipping screw was still in place. Removed the shipping screw and voila! no noise. It's always the little things that get ya.
Parts Used:
Drive V-Belt
  • Michael from Austin, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the SWS1233CQ0
91 - 105 of 150