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Door Gasket was torn - not sealing properly. Kickplate clip had broken off
Gasket:
Unfolded gasket from package. Laid it out on counter. Used hair dryer until gasket laid flat and all fold creases were gone.
Loosened the top screws and screws along the sides from the top down with the exception of the bottom three screws. Removed old gasket except for the bottom. Fit in the new gasket on top and down the sides. When the old gasket was met, removed the lower three screws and bottom ones. Totally removed old gasket and slipped in new one. Lightly tighened screws, made sure seal was good, Finished tightened all screws. Heated gasked with hair dryer to remove wrinkles. Done.
I removed the plastic cover from the top hinge and loosened the screws. The magnet seal kept the door in place so I removed the top hinge and tried to lift the door off the bottom hinge but the water line wouldn't let it go. Since I don't use the water feature, I just cut the water line and lifted the door off. That's when I discovered the hinge pin was actually broken off, not just the cam. I went ahead and replaced the cam kit and put it temporarily back together, got right back on line and ordered the bottom hinge. The service was again very fast and in a couple of days I received the bottom hinge, repeated the whole process again and this time replaced the bottom hinge assembly, put some petrolium jelly on the cam kit and now it works smooth and perfect.
Part of cam broke off bottom of fridg. door & it quit closing automatically
Took longer to move food from door to inside fridge & take grandkids' artwork off door, & then put it all back than it did to replace cam. 1. Used phillips head to undo 1 screw holding cover over top bracket; lifted off cover. 2. No need to have someone hold door while you remove top bracket; magnets in door gasket will hold it tight to fridge. Used socket to remove 3 screws in top bracket & lifted bracket up off top of door. 3. Door's not heavy. I stood on a sturdy chair to get better leverage. Opened the door enough to break the magnetic seal & llfted it up off bottom bracket. I moved it over just enough to get to the cam, rested the bottom of the door on the floor, & leaned it up against the open front of the fridge to help preserve chilled food. 4. Removed the 1 screw holding in the bad cam to the bottom bracket (uses smaller socket than screws on top bracket). 5. I checked part that goes up inside bottom of door & it was fine, so did not replace it. 6. Trickiest part: putting the door back on. I put a hand mirror on floor by the right corner & facing up so I could see the underpart of the door as I lifted it eased it down on the right place. 7. Closed door, made sure it was straight, replaced top hinge & cover, food, & artwork.
Following a brief power outage, it stopped producing ice. Harvester was at 6:00 with fingers frozen in ice cubes. Would make a batch if I freed the harvester and jumped the t-stat, but would quit again.
Unplugged refrigerator. Used nut driver to remove small bolt retaining wire cover on right side of ice maker. Removed wire cover, used flat head screw driver to depress side-rail clips. Ice maker slid out, unplugged. Timer module cover pops off easily. Three screws removed the timer module. Installation was reverse of removal. Had ice in less than an hour, bin was full by next morning. If you have a screw driver and know what it's for, this job should come easily.
tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok
coupling on water line thru freezer door cut due to moving Refg and having to remove doors.
Snapped the large end of the coupling onto the main line coming from the water source and snapped the other end onto the small line leading to the ice maker. Quick and simple.
I unplugged the fridge. Loosened the 2 top screws on the ice maker and removed the lower screw. I disconnected the wiring harness and removed the Ice maker. I removed the plastic timer cover in front. I then loosened the screws on the face of the ice maker and removed the broken ice stripper and replaced it with a new one. Re-tightened the screws on the face, installed the timer cover, plugged in the wiring harness, re-attached the ice maker. Plugged the fridge back in and walla, it was making ice in 30 minutes!
removed screws that held the ice maker in place, then removed the cover (popped off) The drive element was easy to remove, three screws and it was out. I put in the new part and reinstalled the icemaker with the three screws that hold it in place. I never call Sears for any repair. They use contract help and I have heard horror stories about those guys!
remove the bin from the freezer, there are 2 tabs on the lower front cover that pop off and you just pull the entire front cover off. there are 4 nuts that hold the blade cover which you can use the 7in1 with the insert removed.. i believe it's 5/16". remove the cover and the tumbler assembly pops out of the tray. remove the nut with a set of pliers and lay it out on the table in order. install is reverse of removal. make sure you get all the washers in the correct location when assembling. don't tighten the nut too tight or it will bind the rotating assembly.
ridiculous how a tiny plastic broken part required a full motor assembly replacement. that being said, i went online, found this website and easily identified the part i needed to order. i was impressed when it arrived within a couple of days. removing the old motor and replacing the new was a piece of cake...and i am NOT mechanically inclined,
Crack in Water Reservoir Kit, causing water to leak inside the refrigerator door each time the water dispenser selector was pressed. Also ice despenser was not making much ice due to crack in reservioir .
Removed screw that held the old Water Reservoir Kit with screwdriver. Used box cutter to cut line in and line out of old reservoir kit and cut off enough of the length of line in and line out of new reservoir kit to make a good fit between old and new lines. Added the connection fittings between the old lines and new lines just below new water reservoir kit inside refrigerator door. Did not need to replace entire lines because the old water lines was in very good shape. This cut down on the repair time. Entire job took about 15 to 20 minutes. This corrected the leak and ice maker now makes plenty of ice.
I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.
Lower RH door hinge was making a snapping noise because door closure cam screw backed out and damaged cam by egg-shaping hole.
Removed door. Removed old cam closure assembly. Noticed that there was almost nothing inside the door for screw to screw into(only styrofoam insulation), which is why original screw backed out. Bad design. Got longer screw at bigger diameter. Pushed high strength glue into hole, on screw threads, and underneath screw head. Assembled. Crossed fingers. About three weeks have passed and so far, so good.
(1) Removed the three screws which attached the ice maker to the freezing compartmnet wall in refrigerator; (2) Disconnected the power to the old ice maker; (3) Removed the old ice maker from the freezing compartment of the refrigerator; (4) Took the white front cover off of the old ice maker; (5) Disconnected the wiring harness from the old ice maker; (6) Removed the "ice making-stop arm" from the old ice maker; (7) Placed the items taken from old ice maker on to the new ice maker; (8) Reconnected the new ice maker to the power; (9) Placed the new ice maker in the proper position in freezing compartment of refrigerator and replaced the three screws. JOB DONE!
