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Lower RH door hinge was making a snapping noise because door closure cam screw backed out and damaged cam by egg-shaping hole.
Removed door. Removed old cam closure assembly. Noticed that there was almost nothing inside the door for screw to screw into(only styrofoam insulation), which is why original screw backed out. Bad design. Got longer screw at bigger diameter. Pushed high strength glue into hole, on screw threads, and underneath screw head. Assembled. Crossed fingers. About three weeks have passed and so far, so good.
Removed the hinge cover, removed three hinge screws, removed door. Then I used a screwdriver to pry out the hinge bushings, pushed the new ones in and replaced the door. Both Maytag and Lowe's (who held the extended warranty) said that the door was not a repairable item and would have to replace the whole door. Since that would cost more than the value of the fridge, they voided the warranty and returned my cost. Too bad we didn't know about Part Select, we would have held their feet to the fire.
Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one. But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.
Removed Ice bucket. Removed two screws and removed front cover from old ice bucket, two more screws under cover to remove ice agitator. Installed ice agitator to new ice bucket, installed two screws holding it. Installed ice bucket front cover on new ice bucket with two screws. Put new ice bucket into freezer. Finished! That was easy!
I removed the front cover--just popped off with no trouble. Removed 2 screws at the bottom. Slid the broken part out and put the new one in place. Put in the two screws, replaced the fron cover AND Done!!! BTW I am a 65 year old woman and the icemaker is like new.
While ordering the assembly, I had thought that the ice bucket was included but it wasn't. So I ordered the ice bucket afterwards. Maybe a little more clarity as far as what parts come in the whole assembly would save some time. All in all, the agitator was very easy to install, along with the ice bucket. After securing the agitator to the existing assembly with two screws, the ice bucket slipped right into place. Easy to install.
I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!
As the prior stories mentioned, this was a fairly easy fix to a nagging problem. Heck, we almost bought a new refer over this, cuz the door would keep popping open.
Needed a screwdriver, and a 5/16" nut driver (mounted in elec. drill). Have two people for this one! Emptying the door would help out tons too. ('course, I didn't do that!)
With the door closed, remove the plastic cover on top by removing 1 phyllips screw. Then, using drill mounted 5/16" nut driver, remove 3 hinge screws. Remove hing by lifting up. Now, carefully open and remove the door. Here is where the 2nd person comes in. There are 2-3 1/4" screws (Must use a 1/4' NUT DRIVER, SOCKET OR MAGNETIC BIT HOLDER) on the bottom of the door to remove the broken plastic cam. Also, you must remove the bad cam from the bottom hinge using I believe the 1/4" nut driver.
Finally , one person lift the door while the other kneels on the floor to help giude the door back onto the bottom hing pin. Close the door, ensuring that the top of the doors are even, and secure the 3 top hinge screws. UR done!
I removed all screws from the existing gasket, removed aold gasket. Fit new gasket in place and reinstalled all screws. My only concern is that the original gasket had a magnet within the gasket to hold the door closed. The new gasket did not have a magnet. Hopefully, the door will close tightly to assure no cold leakage. I'm not sure how the seal remains tight.
All three lights are not working...lights are off but refrigerator still cooling. Also, the control box not lit up to show the temparture for freezer and refrigerator
Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.
I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid
Loosened all retaining screws around gasket - removed old gasket - inserted new gasket and tightened screws. Little tedious (lots of screws) but very simple.
