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Microwave oven ran but stopped heating
I had to unmount the over-the-range microwave oven to be able to gain access to the interior of the oven. Complicating removal (and re-installation) was the fact that there is a "pot-filler" faucet installed directly underneath the oven. In retrospect, I should've removed the faucet before doing the repair, but "c'est la vie."
After I got the microwave down, removing the case was also "interesting." I get bonus points for the fact that the previous owner must've had to replace the same diode before - and then re-assembled the microwave case incorrectly - thereby adding to the confusion (BTW, the service manual that I found online said nothing about how to remove the oven's case).
To remove the case, undo all the screws holding it on, and then rotate the case upwards from the back while also pulling the case backwards. There are crimped folds on the inside of the case that mate with the back edges of the front of the oven's chassis, and these folds have to be unclipped from the chassis in order to remove the case.
Replacing the diode itself was the easiest part of the job. The two connectors on the diode are of different types, making it impossible to install the diode with the wrong polarity.
BTW, the diode that had failed was not an OEM diode; I suspect it was a generic component that had been installed by a repairman sometime between 2004-2008 (when our home's original owners still owned the home). On the other hand, the new diode from PartSelect is an OEM part (it came packaged in a sealed Whirlpool bag).
The fact that the oven had stopped heating indicated that it was either the high-voltage diode or the magnetron that had failed. Since a replacement diode costs ~ 1/10th as much as a replacement magnetron, I figured it made sense to replace the cheaper part first. Fortunately, this fixed the problem.
One last thing: I tried testing both the old and new diodes for conductivity and polarity using my volt-ohm meter (VOM), but I was unable to get either diode to "turn on," even though my VOM is powered by a 9-v battery, and I used the 2-Mohm range setting. I guess the test voltage of my el-cheapo VOM isn't high enough to exceed the diode's threshold voltage, (even though I have successfully used this same VOM to test low-voltage diodes).
The plastic door key (latch) broke where the spring attaches.
I took off the inner plastic frame of the door, removed the broken part, hooked the spring up to the new latch and replaced it into the proper alignment holes, and works perfectly. It was less than a 5 minute repair.
Use knife to peel back molding around latch openings. Pull down on plastic latch part, pull out bottom and tilt up to remove broken part from spring. Tilt top of new part inward and connect tab to spring. Push in bottom of latch and snap. Replace the molding by pushing all around the door frame.
Used a putty knife to take off the edging inside the door to have access to the latch. Put the new part in and attached the spring. Replaced the edging and job was complete.
Got part from you in one day - great- watched utube video on removing molding and reinstalling. Video was longer than time to fix all need to do was remove molding and install the door latch - it is made of plastic with a hook on which to attach spring. Hook breaks and therefore door does not close
Replaced with new motor from Parts Select. Part was a correct replacement for the old one. perfect fit. Works like it did when it was new. I will recommend Parts Select to anyone. Thank you very much. I would definitely use your company again in the future. I saved $30 by not using parts from GE.
Called Maytag regarding the latch. Was told I had to order an entire new door that would cost around $170 before shipping and handling. Went on partselect and foundt he part for $2.02. Big difference in price. Very easy to install. Hardest part was getting the spring back on. Would definitely recommend to friends.
