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no heat
I looked up the #1 reason for no heat for my microwave on the site , and using my model number found that 92% of the time it was the Black Sleeve Diode. Ordered the $15 part, and installed it within 30 minutes. Most of the time was used for removing the built in microwave and removing the cover. Replaced the diode by finding it on the diagram that I printed from this site (free). Very relieved that we don't need to have our custom cabinetry re-sized to accommodate a new microwave. Thank you!
Initially I called a Samsung recommended appliance repair outfit to fix the latch. The technician informed me that he does not fix latches. I need to buy a full new door for the microwave for $215 plus he charges $165 to come to my house. I got angry and did some research and it turned out that this is a very common problem. I ordered part PS4229162 "door key" $6.67 then followed the instructions on a youtube video by zimsjeep "Repair a Broken Microwave Door Latch" to install. At first I struggled a bit hooking up the spring to the frame, but then I used a slim plier to hold the spring (instead of my fingers) and that did the trick.
I r/r the bulb cover, I then removed the burned out bulbs w/ a rag in case they broke they wouldn't have cut my fingers. You turn the bulbs lefty loosy. Installation is just the reverse. Install each bulb and turn righty titey, just snug the bulbs into place. Replace Glass cover and insert one phillips screw in plate and re-tighten
Removed case, Discharged HV capacitor and removed cooling fan. Unscrewed ground end of HV diode and unplugged from HV capacitor. Installed new diode by reversing the order. In my case, the problem was the magnetron was bad, so I replaced it as well.
Microwave would continue to run even when door was open. (even if no time was left on timer)
Unplugged Microwave, Removed vent cover (2 screws on top of microwave, then slide cover to the left, then forward) Removed control panel (1 screw at top of panel) then removed the two screws that hold in the door switch assembly. (these you will only see by opening the microwave). Located lower door switch, removed connecting wires, and pulled switch by releasing small plastic tab which held it in. Put new switch in place, reconnected wires, then reconnected door switch assembly. Reconnected control panel, and then put the vent cover back on. Tested microwave and it no longer runs when the door is open. Super easy fix, and was done in under 5 minutes.
removed a dozen screws-discarded large cap-replaced diode-replaced a dozen screws(took longer to replace them than remove for some unknown reason). Microwave now works(wife happy).
This is the 2nd broken part that I have received in 2 weeks. You cant install something that is broken. I spoke with customer service and advised that they not send the part in a soft pouch.
I had to unmount the over-the-range microwave oven to be able to gain access to the interior of the oven. Complicating removal (and re-installation) was the fact that there is a "pot-filler" faucet installed directly underneath the oven. In retrospect, I should've removed the faucet before doing the repair, but "c'est la vie."
After I got the microwave down, removing the case was also "interesting." I get bonus points for the fact that the previous owner must've had to replace the same diode before - and then re-assembled the microwave case incorrectly - thereby adding to the confusion (BTW, the service manual that I found online said nothing about how to remove the oven's case).
To remove the case, undo all the screws holding it on, and then rotate the case upwards from the back while also pulling the case backwards. There are crimped folds on the inside of the case that mate with the back edges of the front of the oven's chassis, and these folds have to be unclipped from the chassis in order to remove the case.
Replacing the diode itself was the easiest part of the job. The two connectors on the diode are of different types, making it impossible to install the diode with the wrong polarity.
BTW, the diode that had failed was not an OEM diode; I suspect it was a generic component that had been installed by a repairman sometime between 2004-2008 (when our home's original owners still owned the home). On the other hand, the new diode from PartSelect is an OEM part (it came packaged in a sealed Whirlpool bag).
The fact that the oven had stopped heating indicated that it was either the high-voltage diode or the magnetron that had failed. Since a replacement diode costs ~ 1/10th as much as a replacement magnetron, I figured it made sense to replace the cheaper part first. Fortunately, this fixed the problem.
One last thing: I tried testing both the old and new diodes for conductivity and polarity using my volt-ohm meter (VOM), but I was unable to get either diode to "turn on," even though my VOM is powered by a 9-v battery, and I used the 2-Mohm range setting. I guess the test voltage of my el-cheapo VOM isn't high enough to exceed the diode's threshold voltage, (even though I have successfully used this same VOM to test low-voltage diodes).
This is the second time that I received the same part broken because of poor packaging at the factory. When I spoke with customer service after the first one arrived in pieces I suggested that they advise the shipping department to change how they ship delicate parts. Nothing changed. Same result.
I ORDERED THIS PART AND IT CAME SEVERAL DAYS LATER AND IT WAS BROKEN. I SENT IT BACK WITH A BIG NOT SAYING A REPLACEMENT PART MUST BE IN A BOX FOR SHIPPING. THE SECOND PART CAME, NO BOX, AND IT WAS BROKEN. SO AFTER THREE WEEKS PLUS IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO DO ANY INSTALLATION. I THINK THE SHIPPING DEPARTMENT IS BROKEN AND NEEDS SOME HELP.
The plastic door key (latch) broke where the spring attaches.
I took off the inner plastic frame of the door, removed the broken part, hooked the spring up to the new latch and replaced it into the proper alignment holes, and works perfectly. It was less than a 5 minute repair.
