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SF265LXTQ1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the SF265LXTQ1
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broken rear drawer glides
just replaced the broken glides with the new ones.
Parts Used:
Rear Drawer Glide
  • Jeff from Manhattan, KS
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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The original trim rusted
I did the repair by myself. I used masking tape to hold the side trim in place. It was pretty easy and it looks great.
Parts Used:
Trim, Lower (White)
  • Diane from Elyria, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Oven did not rise to temperature when at the bakie setting
First make sure it is the gas valve not the ignitor. If the clicking sound still happens then the ignitor is fine, no clicking means ignitor may be broke and try to fix that first because it is cheaper. For us I knew it was the valve because the ignitor still clicked and the broil and top elements still worked. After the part arrived I turned off the gas and pulled the power to the oven. Disassembled all the components taking pictures along the way to remember what it looked like to go back together. Installed the new valve and use yellow gas tephlon tape at the seals. Put components back in reverse order. Run the top elements first to get gas in all the gas lines and remove the air. At this point the oven bakes again.
Parts Used:
Gas Valve
  • Brett from Arlington, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Gas range would not go into self cleaning mode. When pushing the self clean button, would get three beeps!
The malfunction was narrowed down to the oven door motor lock, located at the upper left back of the unit. Removed two panels from the back of the unit, 8 screws. Then the motor, 2 screws, 4 wire connectors. Reversed the procedure for the installation, and solved the problem. About 30=35 minutes for the job. If your handy at all, it should not be a problem.
Parts Used:
Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly
  • Lee from Saint James, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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The Parts Came With No Instructions And We Couldn't Find Directions On Line.
We took the door off and took it and the side panels to the local dealer and he put them on for us - for anyone needing to replace the side panels on the over, be aware they slide under the glass front -not over it like we tried to do. We thought, though, that we were going to have a buy a new stove but for a little over $70. 00 We got the parts, had them installed and saved over $800 on a new stove - well worth the effort.
Parts Used:
Side Trim - Left Side - White Side Trim - Right Hand Side
  • Kathleen from Livingston, MT
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
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Oven has not heat
Open oven door and remove racks. Remove 2 screws at back of oven floor and remove bottom plate. Unscrew screws that hold flame defuser. Remove defuser. Remove screws that hold bake igniter and flame tube. Unplug wire to bake igniter. Remove screws to bake igniter. Replace old igniter with new igniter. Replace screws and wire to igniter. Replace flame defuser and put screws back. Put bottom plate back into oven. Replace 2 screws at back. Replace racks. close door and test by setting thermostat to some temperature and verify that oven works.
Parts Used:
Bake Igniter
  • Gregory from Arlington, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Ignater would ignate the first time, but then after the oven went off the ignater would not re-ignate and the ove would rmain off
The first thing you need to do is remove the racks from your oven.

Then look around at the back of your oven for the screws that hold the bottom pan down.

Remove those screws and remove the pan. Some need to slide back and then come up others will just pull up.

Remove the heat shield that is over the burner.

Remove the bottom drawer of your oven.

Now you should be able to see the igniter that sits on an angle by the burner tubes with a couple of wires coming out of it.

Removing the screws that hold the igniter is probably the most difficult part with some ovens. Sometimes it is easier to remove the whole bracket that holds the igniter and then remove and replace the igniter out of the oven.

The wires for the igniter will go to a Molex plug. Follow the wires and undo the plug. On many units it will be below the oven in the drawer opening at the top back. You will need to lay flat on the floor and reach back in to do this.

Once you have the old igniter out then you can carefully install the new one.

Check to make sure that you can feed the Molex plug and wires down through to the bottom before fastening the igniter.

Once the igniter is secured and the plug is connected, you can then replace the other parts in the reverse order that they came out.
Parts Used:
Bake Igniter
  • Jose from Woodbridge, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Igniters were cracked and not sparking correctly.
This repair is only if your old igniters are working but they are so cracked that the spark is not going where it should be. TURN OF THE GAS SUPPLY VALVE BEHIND THE STOVE AND UNPLUG THE STOVE FROM THE WALL.I had to drill out most of the old screws to remove the burners plates because of all the old baked on spills. I bought replacement screws when I bought the igniters because I felt this would be a problem. My repair time included scrubbing the stove top. Once all the parts that make up the stovetop burners were removed (NOTE WHICH BURNER PLATE CAME FROM WHICH LOCATION, THEY ARE DIFFERENT SIZES) and I could see the pipes beneath the stove top, I cleared off the top and used a spreading knife to push in the clips on the left and right sides near the front of the stove. It was thin enough to fit in the space between the stove top and main body. Push the clip inward and pull up on the stove top and it will let you lift the top. Be careful because it may release suddenly so be gentle. I also removed the top section of the back of the stove to access the igniter terminal block. A few screws, nothing more. Be sure to take note of which wire goes where. (They are color coded). Unplug the old igniters. it is easiest to cut he old igniters off of the end of the wires and pull out three wires leaving only one. At the back left of the top of the stove there is a rectangle channel that the wires are running through. There is a clip that holds the wires loosely together. Remove the wires from that clip or the next part will be difficult. Run each of the new igniter wires through their respective holes in the stove top. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE WIRE INSULATION IN ANY WAY. When you put the burner plates back on the igniters will be sandwiched in between the plate and the stove top. Using electrical tape, tape the connector ends of the new wires to the one remaining old wire. Gently pull the old wire through the rectangle channel, pulling from the back of the stove. Take your time so no damage occurs. Once the wires are pulled, plug them in to their respective terminals and place the wires in the loose clip. Make sure the new wires are not crossing the pipe openings where the burners are located. You can close the stove top and double check there are no wires across any of the burner openings. Re-assemble the burners and plug in the stove. DO NOT OPEN THE GAS VALVE. Turn on the stove and check to make sure the new igniters are working properly and sparking to the burner plate assemblies. You should see a controlled spark. Do not touch the burner plates or igniters or you will be shocked. If all are working then you may put the back cover on and open the gas valve. If none are working make sure the stove is plugged in. If some are working then check the connection on the terminal block and the wire insulation. If they are still not working then you've got bigger fish to fry. Good luck my friend. Happy fixing!
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Spark Igniter
  • Lewzer from Whittier, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Broken and cracked drawer handle
Removed 2 holding screws in broken drawer handle and installed the new drawing in the reverse procedure
Parts Used:
Door Handle - Black
  • Richard from Huntsville, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Trim piece on the botom of the oven was chipped in three places
I used the allen wrenches to block the hinges, removed the oven door and used the kitchen counter for a work station. I removed the trim piece at the bottom which released the side trim and oven glass front, and then reversed the procedure. It took more time to clean things than to do the exchange. My only issue is with Fed Ex who delived the first trim piece bent in the middle inside a crushed box. Part Select had another part sent the same day after I called them.
Parts Used:
Trim, Lower (White)
  • Terry from Maple Valley, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Bottom Door Trim Rusting
I remove bottom trim which is held on by 3 screws and try to install new bottom trim, did not work well. I then remove yop handle assem. Then the door glass which you need to clean after. Then install the new bottom trim then insert the glass into the new bottom strip using masking tape to hold the glass and side strips in place prior to installing the the top handle piece which is held on by two screws. Not a hard job to do.
Parts Used:
Trim, Lower (White)
  • Dennis from Grimsley, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Broke front glass of oven while moving
Looks better than the old one wes and so easy to do. Thanks.
Parts Used:
Exterior Door Glass - Biscuit
  • melody from springhill, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Bake would not work all the time
The bake part of the oven was not igniting all the time . I checked the website and they don't list the igniter separately from the burner tube. This part is the exact fit for the igniter. There is no need to buy the whole kit if the igniter is all you need. it will fit right on the burner tube with no modification at all. Part number PS897264 is the igniter and burner tube. Part number PS898618 is just the ignitor.
Parts Used:
Bake Igniter
  • Philip from New York, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Often would not heat. Burners on syove were O.K.
Removed door per instructions in manual. Removed racks and storage drawer per manual. Removed two phillips head screws holding bottom pan and removed pan. Removed two phillips head screws holding igniter tube (#12) and withdrew tube from the cavity. Removed two phillips head screws holding igniter and bracket to the tube. Unplugged elcetrical connection to igniter and installed new igniter in reverse order. Too bad the igniter wasn't the problem.
Parts Used:
Bake Igniter
  • Bruce from Michigan City, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the SF265LXTQ1
136 - 149 of 149