SCG20200B Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

I killed power
Pulled the back panel
Pulled the door off
pulled light socket wires
reached in and bent in light socket tabs
knocked out light socket
slide in new socket
lifted top of stove (glass)
disconnected glass top wiring
pulled off glass top
pulled both side panels
removed both hinges,
installed new hinges
reinstalled side panels
reinstalled glass top,
reinstalled light socket wiring
installed back panel
installed door
restored power

The flame holder twists about 1/2 inch to left and lifts off. I removed the two screws that holds the igniter on and removed it and installed the new igniter.
There was one complication: when I put it back together, there was no spark. I removed the ground wire and cleaned and scraped it and replaced it and still no spark. But, for no apparent reason the spark returned and has been okay since.

Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.

I used the other good burner assembly to isolate the problem to the igniters or the igniter block. I ordered both parts from Parts Select. They shipped the parts promptly and after 10 minutes of install time, the burners worked flawlessly.
Thank You Parts Select.

The first set of racks did not fit. I called the Service rep, gave him the model number and exchanged the racks for the new ones. The new ones fit perfectly and the service was excellent. I would definitely recommend PartSelect.com to anyone who wants to deal with a company with excellent service, parts and representatives who know their stuff.

The gas valve (recently new from partselect) wouldn't open, or sometimes it would open just enough to let some gas escape! I read from others that just because the igniter was glowing, it might not be putting out enough voltage to trip the gas valve. A check of this confirmed that it was sending just over 3V to the valve - not enough to fully open it. I felt confident that springing for the $60 would solve the problem once and for all. After replacing the igniter, the oven lights in 10 sec or less, and this is a 26-year-old appliance! PartSelect to the rescue again!

Removed door from oven by pulling up at the first stop point after opening the door. Removed the outer shell by removing 5 screws. Disassembled the inner door by removing 6 screws. Be careful with the insulation blanket (fits in a molded portion of the inner door). Glass windows can be removed (for cleaning) via a couple screws. Old gasket/seal is held in-place via spring-clips; just squeezed each clip, pushed each thru their respective holes, and pulled off the worn-out gasket. New gasket snapped in-place by pushing the clips thru the respective holes. Reverse the process to reassemble the door. You can do this job in 15-20 minutes. Took us longer because it took some elbow-grease (and patience) to clean the crud off the glass windows.

unplug unit remove rear panel screws lift up stove top remove top two screws remove panel remove two hinge screws remove replace hinge and follow in reverse order

moved stove away from the wall, Disconnected power, Removed 2 screws on the access panel and removed panel. Disconnected qwick release conections on heat sensor and ignitor, Removed oven door and burner cover to expose ignitor, removed 2 screws to remove ignitor and replaced ignitor. Removed 2 screws and removed sensor, replaced sensor. Reconnected qwick conects on sensor and ignitor. Replaced oven door, burner cover and access panel and checked out. Checks OK !

Waited for my husband to do it, but when he didn't, I tried it. Very simple! Just pulled the old gasket out of the pinch pin holes in the door, then replaced it. Tuck the one end into the hole at the bottom of the door, then match up the little pinch pins on the gasket with the holes in the door - matches up perfectly! Be sure to tuck in each of pinch pins till they sort of "snap" into each hole. Took me 5 minutes, tops. Works great now, no more lost heat around the edge of the door.

So simple! I really had no idea what the problem was. I found the PartsSelect site, read the comments from fellow Maytag double oven owners, diagnosed the problem as the sensor and ordered the part. It arrived in only two days! We removed the back of the stove, pulled the old sensor through, plugged the new one in and YAY the oven is like new. I have to admit most of the repair time involved sweeping up the dog hair that had accumulated under the stove.

Simply remove the box containing the two right burners. Access the igniter by removing about 8 screws and pull the coupler for the igniter off with a pair of needel nose pliers. Replace with new igniter using the same tool. Re-assemble the box by screwing in the screws and give it a try. Worked great. Once slight hitch, be sure you don't leave a second screw driving in the box. As it will raddle. So I had to remove and reassemble twice. I'm not a surgeon! Thanks for the fast delivery!

I pulled out the gas range, unplugged the unit from the outlet. Unscrewed about two panels, one is the black cardboard panel located on top, then the aluminum main panel.

Located the spark module, unscrewed the unit from resting plate. Did not change the plate, although the new unit came with a new one, but it doesn't fit. So I just rested the new one on the old plate.

Pulled each wire slowly out and inserted it onto the new spark module.

Screwed in all the panels back and returned the stove to its proper place.

The range now works as well as the oven, but my broiler still does not light up.

Slid two latches at rear of bottom oven pan toward door, pulled pan up at rear of oven and removed. Igniter exposed, removed two self-tapping screws with nutdriver, pulled wires surrounded by insulation up out of hole in ovenfloor an unsnapped plastic connector wired to old igniter. screwed new igniter to bracket, reconnected wires, pushed connectors into hole and shoved new insulation around wires, fitted bottom pan and turned on oven. Works better than new, Thanks PARTSELECT.