SAV505DAWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

removed the front of the washer, removed the motor and pump. Reinstall new pump.

First, I printed all the diagrams on the Partselect site so I would know how things went together.

I removed the two screws at the bottom of the front panel and removed the panel by pulling the bottom out allowing the top to come off he retaining clips. I then used pliers to remove the two springs holding the front of the washer tub to the base. Then I removed the spring that attached to the idler arm and the motor. (I also took digital pictures of everything in case I forgot the routing of the belt, the location of springs, etc.) Next I loosened the clamps holding the inlet and outlet hoses to the pump. The water loss was minimal as my washer was still functioning, but I could see that if the washer died with a full tub, there could be a lot of water. I then slipped the 2 hoses off the pump. Next I removed the four bolts holding the motor/pump combo from the frame. I unpluged the electrical connector (on the top left side of the pump....it has a locking tab on top that must be depressed to remove it). Then tilt the bottom of the motor/pump combo up and forward to allow it to come out of the machine. Please note the routing of the belt for replacement later.

The pump has 3 screws (torx) that attaches it to the motor. In most cases, it seems the pump will seize to the motor shaft due to the heat of the motor over time. Since the pump is bad anyway, I simply chiseled it off the motor shaft using a flat blade screwdriver and hammer. It is tempting to put the screwdriver between the motor pulley and pump, but this will only bend the pulley.......I know from experience. It will take several good whacks but eventually the pump will come off. In my case the pump had leaked enough that the end of the motor shaft was slightly pitted and corroded. I took a file and cleaned up the end so the new pump would slide on properly. I also put a small amount of machine oil on the motor shaft and wiped it good just to make the pump easier to mount. I then slide the pump on the motor shaft, replaced the 3 torx screws (make sure you have the belt in the right position.....one run of it goes inside the pump mounting stud.) I then reversed the process.....remounted the motor/pump combo, reattached the power connector, replaced the belt on the pulley beneath the drum, reattached the idler tension spring, reattached the 2 hoses and clamps, and reattached the 2 drum holddown springs. I then inserted the top of the front panel on the two clips and tilted it back down into place and replaced the 2 screws at the bottom front.

All in all, it was very easy..........taking only an hour or so. My belt was still in good condition, but I could advise you to go ahead and replace the belt while you are in there. It also could be practical to replace the pulley on top of the pump, as it is easy to bend. I did bend mine, but managed to straighten it back out.

After completing the repair, the washer works perfectly with no leaks.

Removed front panel; loosened hose clamp at pump; removed existing drain hose. Easy part.
Installed new hose at pump and tightened hose clamp. Somewhat difficult.
1. Your hose design should be solid flexible rubber hose instead of corrugated type. Had rough time snaking hose to the pump.
2. Your future designs should have rubber hose or hard piping to the exit hole on the back panel and terminated in a male fitting, then connect flexible hose from fitting to drain line. Similar to "hot & cold " water connections.
3. For future customers- care should be taken installing the "black" portion ; it kinked on me 2 or 3 times because you have to keep rotating the entire hose to keep the "black" portion straight.

Thanks for very quick delivery and detailed instructions found on this site. I followed the step-by-step instructions and everything went as planned with one exception, I installed the V-belt in a wrong way after replacing the pump. Next time, I will mark or remember the way belt sits between the motor and the pump.
I found a small sock in the pump. Pump itself was still good (I think), but I installed new one along with new belt (just in case).

this machine seems good to work on because almost every thing is done from the front without pulling it away from the wall. Removed front lower cover by removing two screws. There are three brake pads with two bolts each. applied silicone grease to each pad and put it back togather

I had to take the entire tub assembly from the machine to replace the milkstool which had been crushed by the weight of over-loading the washer. It took about 2 & 1/2 hours to complete the job, but it was well worth the effort to save the expense of replacing the appliance. Part Select provide the right part as promised and saved me a lot of money. Thank you for your service.

Part received was correct (5 days ARO). Removed motor assy from unit (left wires connected). Found drive belt was also worn out & obtained a new one locally. Seperated old pump from rusted motor shaft using 2 screwdrivers. Had to use a file to lightly "polish" rust off motor shaft to install new pump. On-line parts diagram helpful in getting belt properly alinged to idler pully. Machine now runs smoothly, dosn't leak and sound like new. Wife happy (me too)!

First I unplugged the washing machine and turned off the water. Located on the back of the machine there are 2-5/16 "screws that hold the top secure, removing these screws gave me access to the water mixing valve. One 1/4 " screw holds the valve in place to the back of the machine, removing this screw alowed me to remove the valve from the back of the washer. Then disconnecting the water lines and electrical lines from the valve assembly in my hand was easy, with a 5/16"nut driver for the water line hose under the washer lid. The electrical lines just un plug. Repeating these steps in reverse made this job easy. After fixing our washing machine we could not believe how much faster the tub filled up. This will probably save us some on electricity, it use to take about 20 minutes to fill the tank now its filling up in about 5 minutes. Thank you so much for your timely delivery and affordable pricing. I will recommend Parts Select to my family and friends for there future needs! Thank You Anthony

1. unplug unit 2. remove front access plate 3. disconnect tension spring on drive belt 4. remove 4 motor mount screws 5. disconnect intake and return lines from pump using a pliers to decompress compression rings and sliding lines off. 6. Manipulate motor and loosen drive belt from bottom of tub and let it hang. 7. tilt motor bottom out exposing pump and remove 3 screws using TREX head driver and remove pump. 8. install new pump

I removed the lower front panel to diagnose the problem. After finding this, it would have been best to purchase the parts because the instructions on how to disassemble the unit came with the parts. Sad to say, I didn't tighten the main hub, at the bottom of the unit, good enough because it came loose and I had to go back and do a better job. Luckily I was able to fabricate the tool to tighten it better. Too bad the web page didn't recommend the right tools for the job. I would have purchased them.
All in all the job went well. I am pleased with the parts and prints available to complete the job. I could have used some instructions before removal of the parts, but where would be the adventure in that, right?

Rivman,
Milwaukee, WI.
12/2009

First removed all screws with a nutdriver then lifted the body from the base. Removed the two hoses at the pump (be ready for excess water). Removed the 9/16 bolts (4) to drop the motor assy. I also took off the two front balance springs to have easy access. I at this point was able to remove the pulley and put new belt & pump on the motor. Remember to watch carefully to align belt. removing the idler pulley is a no brainer. Took about 45mins. to complete, a no pro job!!

took the belt out and took the thing out and fixed then put it back.

Very easy repair. Removed the lower front panel of the washing machine (two screws) with nutdriver.

Removed hose clamp with pliers. Removed hose from machine. Replaced hose and ran thru a full cycle to check for leaks.

No leaks, back in business in under an hour. This time includes going out to garage and gather the two tools needed for the job and cleaning up the water that came out of the hose during the removal process.

Removed the damaged legs, replaced with parts from this site and leveled the washer .

MAYTAG SAV2655AWW Series 10 Washer Tub Bearing and Seal Replacement

1. Unplug washer power cord and turn off water supply to hoses.

2. Remove lower front panel, 2 5/16” hex head screws at bottom of panel.

3. Remove front upper panel, 2 5/16” hex head screws at bottom corners of panel.
4. Slide washer out from wall far enough to provide clearance to lift washer top panel and control head.

5. Remove 2 5/16” hex head screws securing washer lid panel to side panels and lift lid.

6. Pull fabric softener dispenser from agitator, pulls off easily.

7.Remove agitator upper section, pulls off easily. Remove ½” hex head retainer bolt from inside agitator.

8.Remove agitator base section, pops up, place fingers under each side and pull up gently.

9. Remove tub top ring by pushing down at each clip and then prying out lightly to disengage clip, 8 total. Orientation for reassembly is done by referencing the double tabbed clip on the right side of the outer tub.

10. Remove inner tub retainer bolts, 4, ½” hex head. Clean off mounting hub to expose 4 pry slots located exactly opposite each other. Using wide flat head screw driver carefully and evenly pry up inner tub off of aluminum mounting hub. Once tub is ¼” or more raised a wider blade pry bar will help prevent cracking or breaking the inner tub.

11. Remove plastic seal cup from transmission shaft by turning it counter clockwise with a medium to large pair of water pump pliers.

12. Remove inner tub aluminum mounting hub by using a hammer and broad flat faced punch or drift and driving the hub counterclockwise. You can be aggressive about this as kit comes with a new hub. It will loosen at some point and can be unscrewed by hand. The transmission shaft threaded section must be thoroughly cleaned to remove all sealers or debris from the threads or the new hub in the kit will not thread on correctly and will be excessively tight. Lightly place anti-seize lubricant on the threads before putting on new hub and seal cup.

13. Remove water pump hose from outer tub. Then remove second hose from water pump.

14. Remove “Fill Sensor” hose. Back left quadrant of outer tub, pulls off easily.

15. Remove 6 tub ( 3 pairs) stabilizer springs, plus 1 spring in very back. Try to watch how back one connects to tub mount. If you miss it hooking it back up is pretty straight forward. Only secures one way. Channel locks or vise grips work best for working with springs.

16. Disconnect wire harness from motor drive assembly and tub frame mount.

17. Pull tub and motor drive assembly out of washer cabinet. Lift carefully by shaft and tub mount frame.

18. Remove 6 outer tub retainer bolts and 2 upper motor frame bolts.

19. Lift tub off motor frame and set on its side carefully to prevent damage to “Fill Sensor” back left side.Use a slide tool to pop bearing assembly out of tub bottom.

20. Clean the tub, bearing mount surface, remove all grease from shaft and shaft spline sealing O-ring.

21. Wet new bearing seating surface and tub mounting surface lightly with water and press in new bearing by hand.

22. Clean both inner and outer tubs inside and out thoroughly. Clean hub mounting threads on motor shaft thoroughly.
There can be no residue of any kind in those threads or new hub will be difficult to impossible to screw on without damaging it.

23. Reverse dis-assembly procedure to reassemble machine. Recommend replacing drive belt and idler pulley if found to be excessively worn or damaged. If brake assembly is heavily worn or pads are cracked this is the time to replace those as well.