SAV4655EWQ Maytag Washer - Instructions

very easy replacement. was probably broken for a year and only took five minutes to replace. Can't believe we waited so long!

I just removed the screws on the back of the control panel. There was one 1/4 head screw holding the timer in place. I removed that and slid the unit to the right. I removed the connection module. Then I popped the connector on the new unit and slid it back in and bolted it back in. I had to remove the face of the dial on the front and slide the dial off the old unit onto the new timer. This was a very doable do it yourself job.

took the belt out and took the thing out and fixed then put it back.

I disconnected the water supply line to washer and moved washer into open area. I removed the front panel of washer to gain access to drain hose. I removed hose and reinstalled new hose. I did turn the hose holder inside the washer as it allowed the old hose to rub against the housing support of the washer causing the hose to leak. I was glad that I read the article that someone mentioned in their repair. The new hose was somewhat difficult to maneuver through the back of the washer and through the part that held the hose; otherwise, it was rather easy. Thanks for the feed back on your web page.

First I unplugged the washing machine and turned off the water. Located on the back of the machine there are 2-5/16 "screws that hold the top secure, removing these screws gave me access to the water mixing valve. One 1/4 " screw holds the valve in place to the back of the machine, removing this screw alowed me to remove the valve from the back of the washer. Then disconnecting the water lines and electrical lines from the valve assembly in my hand was easy, with a 5/16"nut driver for the water line hose under the washer lid. The electrical lines just un plug. Repeating these steps in reverse made this job easy. After fixing our washing machine we could not believe how much faster the tub filled up. This will probably save us some on electricity, it use to take about 20 minutes to fill the tank now its filling up in about 5 minutes. Thank you so much for your timely delivery and affordable pricing. I will recommend Parts Select to my family and friends for there future needs! Thank You Anthony

Part received was correct (5 days ARO). Removed motor assy from unit (left wires connected). Found drive belt was also worn out & obtained a new one locally. Seperated old pump from rusted motor shaft using 2 screwdrivers. Had to use a file to lightly "polish" rust off motor shaft to install new pump. On-line parts diagram helpful in getting belt properly alinged to idler pully. Machine now runs smoothly, dosn't leak and sound like new. Wife happy (me too)!

I removed the lower front panel to diagnose the problem. After finding this, it would have been best to purchase the parts because the instructions on how to disassemble the unit came with the parts. Sad to say, I didn't tighten the main hub, at the bottom of the unit, good enough because it came loose and I had to go back and do a better job. Luckily I was able to fabricate the tool to tighten it better. Too bad the web page didn't recommend the right tools for the job. I would have purchased them.
All in all the job went well. I am pleased with the parts and prints available to complete the job. I could have used some instructions before removal of the parts, but where would be the adventure in that, right?

Rivman,
Milwaukee, WI.
12/2009

Very easy repair. Removed the lower front panel of the washing machine (two screws) with nutdriver.

Removed hose clamp with pliers. Removed hose from machine. Replaced hose and ran thru a full cycle to check for leaks.

No leaks, back in business in under an hour. This time includes going out to garage and gather the two tools needed for the job and cleaning up the water that came out of the hose during the removal process.

Removed upper back panel.(3 screws) Unplugged washer and remove timer. Unplug timer from wires. Replaced timer and reinstalled.

First removed all screws with a nutdriver then lifted the body from the base. Removed the two hoses at the pump (be ready for excess water). Removed the 9/16 bolts (4) to drop the motor assy. I also took off the two front balance springs to have easy access. I at this point was able to remove the pulley and put new belt & pump on the motor. Remember to watch carefully to align belt. removing the idler pulley is a no brainer. Took about 45mins. to complete, a no pro job!!

1. unplug unit 2. remove front access plate 3. disconnect tension spring on drive belt 4. remove 4 motor mount screws 5. disconnect intake and return lines from pump using a pliers to decompress compression rings and sliding lines off. 6. Manipulate motor and loosen drive belt from bottom of tub and let it hang. 7. tilt motor bottom out exposing pump and remove 3 screws using TREX head driver and remove pump. 8. install new pump

Removed the damaged legs, replaced with parts from this site and leveled the washer .

Removed 6 screws from the metal plate on the back of the washing machine. Removed the dial from the front of the timer. You have to pop the center peice of the dial out which then frees the rest of the dial to be removed. Removed one screw from the timer back of the timer. Slid the timer out and unplugged it. Installed new timer.

simple as removing front panel from washer held on by two screws and the hose was right their. Took a few minutes to disconnect it from the pump and pull it out through the rear, then feed the replacement in and reverse the process. Piece of cake. Thank you.

I read what the others had done and thought it was the lower bearing so I originally tore it down and replaced just the lower bearing.

Unfortunately, after 2 + hours of doing that and putting it back together, it still didn't fix the problem. So I read more reviews and others claimed to use this kit and that it fixed the problem. So I ordered the kit.

BTW, Parts Select rocks!!!! They get me the part within about 2 days every time.. Great Service! Thanks guys!

Anyhow, part came in, knowing how to tear this thing down now, I was able to get to where I needed to be within about 45 minutes.

2 things that were difficult.

The first was removing the plate at the bottom of the tub. This is the aluminum plate that looks somewhat like a spoked wheel. Maytag has a tool for this. Without it, you must go at it with a small punch on one of the spokes and carefully tap the seal until it turns. You may have to try it from different angles to loosen it up but it will eventually give way..

Once you get that off, the second little piece of joy is actually removing the seal from the bottom of the tub. Here again, Maytag offers a tool to remove this. Without it, and with years of this rubberized fitting mounted in this plastic tub and corrded with water and crap... you will need to create a bearing puller.

I did so with a 2X4 board straddled across the bottom of the tub. I used an 8 inch lag bolt, drilled a hole through the 2X4 and placed the lag bolt throuigh the board and through the center of the bearing. I attached a large washer and nut to the bottom side of the bearing and then began to tighten the bolt on the other side of the board. By tightening the bolt, the board created alot of tension but not enough still to seperate it from the tub. With the tension on the bearing, I turned the tub over and tapped it with piece of wood the size of the bearing and a rubber mallet. It popped right off. The rest was just reassembly.

Don't forget to remove the sticker backing on the felt gasket to hold the gasket in place while you screw the tub back together...

The good news... Super quiet! So, about 3 hours.... (I had to come up with the idea to remove the bearing and build it) and it's all done..

Yeah.... Fun Saturday.