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Replaced the light /oven rocker switch
The two mounting clips supplied with the switch would not fit onto the two studs in the die casted plate (too small) . In removing one of the old clips, the stud broke off. Thus I had to break off the other stud and drill out the area to allow two screws to be inserted to mount the switch securely.
Removed front wooden kick panel(2 cross recessed screws). Removed 2 bolts holding blower to floor. Loosened 2 vent clamp screws on vent from stove(2 clamps). Pulled vent off of blower housing. Removed blower from under stove. Using a nut driver, removed 4 nuts from blower and removed the motor cover & motor from the blower housing, removed 3 screws from motor cover and removed the motor cover from the motor. Ordered new motor. After new motor was rcvd (about 3 days plus wk end) I removed the squirel cage from the motor shaft using a metric allen wrench. Then removed the mounting clamp from the old motor by loosening 1 screw. Placed the motor clamp and the squirel cage on the new motor, then placed the motor cover on the motor. Placed blower mtg bkt and motor on blower housing w/ the 4 nuts removed earlier. Placed blower motor assy under stove being careful not to damage the exaust vent behind the blower motor as I carefully put the blower motor into the exhaust vent. Placed vent from stove on stove and blower housing and secured w/the 2 vent clamps removed earlier. Attached the blower motor base to the floor w/ 2 bolts. Wala........complete
I snapped a bolt on the main power terminal block when connecting the pigtail.
Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.
It was easy enough I unplugged the stove. removed the screws under the control panel,removed the panel, removed the two screws holding the switch in place. moved the electrical wires from the old switch and placed them on the new switch. put it all back together in the reverse order. it took greater than 15 minutes as this is the first time I did any work on my stove and wanted to be careful and not dismantle too much or scratch anything.
The 6in burner would go to max heat regardless of the setting.
Un screwed the two screws in the downdraft section enough to release the unit that holds the surface burner controls.Then removed the control nob, unscrewed the two screws that holds the switch in the unit, removed the wires, making sure the color of the wires were placed on the same contact point. Put it back together and it worked fine.Of course I did shut off the power before starting any of the above
The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.
Downdraft fan would not operate with light/fan switch.
Removed old switch, but when I tried to install the new one the round slide on retainers that hold the switch in place were cheaply made and broke. I had to go to the hardware store to find replacement parts. Electric terminals matched correctly and slipped off and on just fine. New switch works great.
