RUD6050RD2 Roper Dishwasher - Instructions

used a screw driver, removed 2 screws, removed broken piece, screwed in new part ....all done :)
took less than 15 minutes to do*

i just wanted to let everyone know..I ordered the part on a monday and received it on wednesday I was amazed...the part fit perfectly ...and was very easy to install myself....ty so much ...

It was very simple, the repair took less than 5 minutes start to finish. I removed the top dish rack, took out two screws and the broken part slipped right off the water feed tube. I slipped the new upper wash assembly on the end of the tube and replaced one screw. My dishwasher is an older model and the new part only has a hole for one screw but I cannot tell any difference in stability or performance. I put the top rack back on and the dishwasher is as good as before.

I poked the old gasket with a fork tine so I could get a grip on the old gasket as I didn't have pliars, pulled it out in less than 4 seconds, folded the new gasket in half and started center top of the slot the old gasket was in and pushed the new gasket in on each side from the top to the bottom. Very easy. I'd say it took me longer to open the package with my teeth than in doing all of the above.

Simple easy twist on and off replacement.

just put the pieces where they belonged and tighten the screws. it longer to figure out how it was supposed to fit than the actual fixing.

First I removed the nut holding down the lower washarm in place. I then lifted up the lower washarm where it's held in place by the nut. I replaced the two new parts: The lower sprayarm seal that seats underneath the lower washarm and the washarm bearing ring that seats on the top of the lower washarm just underneath the nut. A schematic parts list diagram can be downloaded on the KitchenAid website. The wobbling motion of the lower washarm still seems to have the same amount of play as it had before I replaced the two parts. The lower washarm itself is in fine shape including the nut. I even attempted several other different ways to install the seal and bearing ring, yet the washarm still wobbles when I manually spin it. I called KitchenAid to find out if wobbling of the lower washarm was normal. Unfortunately, the person I spoke to didn't seem to me to knowledgable enough in this area.

Removed spray bar by removing the plastic finger thumb screw and replace as shown by you web page. Very simple.

I ordered the parts from parts select and was pleasantly suprised at the diagnostic diagrams, the home install video, and the quality and pricing of the parts. I had ordered just the top bearing a few years ago and did not realized the bottom seal was bad also. I found the seal pushed down around the pump housing which caused excessive ware on the pump housing top and the top of the wash arm because the gap in the lower seal expanded over 1/4 inch causing the wear on the top of the wash are. This job is normally very easy. Unscrew the thumb screw on top, remove old bearing, pull off the wash arm, remove old seal. Then just put new seal on top of pump (check for any burrs and remove with a fine grit emory sand paper) put on the wash arm, insert top bearing and tighten finger nut tight. I had excessive wear (due to age of unit and lower seal not in proper position), so I had to construct a spacer to take up some of the slack. I could not find a nylon washer(and you need nylon) in the stores ready made and did not want rubber or metal washers due to the adverse effects these would have on the new bearing. I improvised. I purchased a pack of 10 nylon wall anchor washers from Menards (after they said no nylon washers were available:) I used 2 inch O.D. washers with 1/4 inch I.D. which was a perfect center hole and used a drill to enlarge center from 1/4 inch to 1 inch I.D. (to fit around the finger nut screw stem), and removed all burrs. Unscrewed top finger nut and placed under nut on top of seal and the 1/8 inch width took up the slack. Problem solved.

When water started splashing under the door and onto the floor, I noticed that the spray arm was wobbling. The retainer nut was broken, so I ordered it as well as the spray arm bearing ring. After I put them on, it still wobbled and splashed water. That is when I studied the diagram on the web page and noticed that my wash arm bearing ring was broken. So, order all 3 of these parts and your dishwasher will be repaired with no effort at all.

My model dishwasher was a bit older. The new replacement top upper wash assembly had a slightly different construction but was a perfect fit. It even has added protection of the spinner by adding two little fingers around the spinning wheel to protect it from being knocked off by dishes, the most probable cause of its damage to begin with. Only minor issue was that my old unit had 2 screws/holes to mount it and the new replacement unit only came with 1 hole pre-drilled. But if your doing this yourself, you probably have a drill and some small bits somewhere, so a few minutes extra and you'll have an exact replacement unit. Total time took less then 10 minutes and my unit was as good as the day I brought it. Good buy!

Removed the center screw in, then the wash arm, removed the old seal and replaced it with the new one, replaced the wash arm then the screw in, and was done and ready to try it out.

All you have to do it remove the 2 screws (OEM) and release from the water tube. Then, just put in the new part and use the one screw hole (on the new part). That's it!!

Detached lower wash arm and replaced bearing.
5 minute fix.

New one snapped right into place.

The repair was easy. We used the towel in the bottom of the DW hint to catch any falling screws, etc. My husband did drill out the other side of the bracket , since the new part comes with only one hole ( ???why would they do that?) But all in all it was a simple fix and saving $$$$ on DIY is the way to go when possible. Thanks! The part came very quickly. Great service. Your company is great!