RS22ARXXW00 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions

Parts went right into place as the pictures showed and was working again in about 30 minutes. The only thing that wasn't working was the ice took forever to make, but solved that problem by turning up the temp in the freezer.

Watched the video about the repair once, then went to work. Everything was very straight forward. One of the most simple repairs I've ever done. Difficulty level of changing a light bulb.

I wasn't sure what the problem was, but the ice maker seemed simple and on-line resources suggested the control and motor assemblty was at fault. I searched the internet and Partsource had great diagrams which I could match to the part in hand. The price was right (way less than the local stores) so I ordered it.
I unplugged the unit from the power in the freezer, but unplugging the entire refrigerator works too. I pried off the white cover on the front of the ice maker, which snaps in place top and bottom. There are three screws holding the contoller (the entire front piece), remove them, pull off the controller and push the new one in place. You may have to turn the blade shaft to line up the notch on the shaft to the motor. Then reinstall the three screws, The screws go into plastic so it is easy to cross thread them, so be careful, I actually think I did with no ill effects. Snap on the cover and repower the unit. Done. Simple and quick.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

I slid out the crisper drawer, then lifted out the cracked drawer cover, removed glass panel from it and then replaced the cover with the new part. After installing, I replaced the glass panel in the top and slid in my crisper drawer. It took less than 5 mintues and works perfect!
Thanks Parts Select for helping me select the correct part!

I was not sure what was causing the problem, I thought at first it was low water pressure causing the hollow ice cubes. After some trial and error testing I figured a likely cause could be the water valve in the ice maker itself. I replaced that part rather easily using the existing fasteners in about 15 or 20 minutes. The ice maker has been working flawlessly since the repair.

simply removed old motor and replaced new. I'm over 82 and it was hard to get down and up to floor level!! One thing was a little puzeling -that was to insert the right screws which had a nitch in the end of the threds to keep it from loosening- I thought I was spoiling the threds cause I had to use a little pressure to start the screws and thought I had the wrong screws--they had sent several sets of them for different name brands- but II got it and everything seems to be allright - Could you tell me if I could purchase a replacement compressor and some refrigerent -the new kind. thank you, George Erlandson Only if my comp. goes out!!!

I took off the front cover with the controls. Pulled out the control knobs, unbolted the assembly (which was identical to my replacement part) and proceded to follow the old thermostat tube to the back of the fridge. The tube should be carefully removed, not pulled on, there's a couple of screws holding it in towards the back. I installed the new part in reverse of how I took out the original part. I'm very happy with how the fridge has come back to life! It was much cheaper to fix it than to replace.

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

Unplugged the refrigerator and then removed the knobs and face plate inside, by removing the screws. I then removed the screws holding the thermostat and unplugged the Thermostat assembly, and replaced it with the new one, then removed the defrost timer and replaced with the new one. I then replaced the screws and the face plate, then the knobs. I plugged the refrigerator and it kicked on right away. Within a half hour we had it running and at the right temperature. It was so easy I think my wife could have done it!

Unscrewed clamp holding water tube to refrigerator ice maker. Pulled water tube from ice maker and water valve inlet. Cut the new tubing to the exact same length and inserted one end to the water valve inlet and the other end to the ice maker then screwed clamp holding water tube back to the refrigerator ice maker.

Looking at the ice maker it is pretty cut & dried as to how to remove the unit. I took out the ice tray and just started removing all the mounting screws. The same for the mold ice tray & heating element. I was just sad that you did not have just the heating element separate from the mold ice tray.

The ice mold has a coating on it. Over time the coating deteriorates. If your ice maker leaks water into the ice reservoir inspect the mold to see if the coating is compromised. If so, replace with new.

Remove the ice maker assembly. 3 small hex screws. Unplug power cord. Disassemble ice maker assembly. Remove ice mold/heater. Replace with new. Reassemble.

Had to disassemble ice maker to install part. . .

From a prior post, I learned that you simply turn the old stud one quarter turn to the left to pull it out. The new stud is then inserted and turned one quarter turn to the right and it locks in. Very easy repair.