RMC305PDZ1 Whirlpool Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

I looked at the schematic provided on the website and removed all of the screws wih a phillips head screwdriver. I took care not to scratch the stainless steel surface by placing the oven door on a carpet. I removed the old bent hinges and replaced them with the new hinges. I aligned the holes and replaced the screws. The entire job took about 20 minutes.

I took out the old chipped dish and replaced with the new dish...

I turned off the power to the oven at the breaker. I then removed the side trim pieces by removing the screws located behind the lower oven door. I removed the plastic trim pieces above and below the microwave oven and removed the control panel and slid it into the opening above the microwave. I located the two screws securing the microwave into the frame and began sliding it out. I had to disconnect a small wiring harness and two wires from the microwave that were attached inside the opening above the microwave. The microwave section was the easily slid out, turned on it's side where the turntable motor was accessed by removing the access panel. I pulled the old motor, checked resistance and it matched the new motor. I then checked the old motor by applying 120V to it and it ran FINE! I thought I had the wrong part, but decided to install the new motor anyway. I did, secured the access panel and replaced the microwave in the frame. I reconnected the wires and secured the control panel and tested the microwave...and the turntable works!

Open oven dooor. With a philip screw driver remove the gasket plate at the bottom of the oven holding the seal gasket. pull seal gasket away from oven seal channel and clean surface before installing new seal. align seal pins to to seal channel holes be sure not to twist the seal insert pins in one at a time.Install lower bracket however you may want to wet the fray ends of the seal gasket prior to screwing in plate to keep the ends from moving away from the bracket when scrwing it in place.

A screw on the botton of the door was very inaccessible and difficult to remove. The rest of the process was flawless.

I used a Google search to show how to access the area behind the front panel. There was a folded paper copy with a schematic and wiring diagram in that space.Then I used a multi-meter to determine which of the THREE micro-switches was causing the problem. I called your help line and ordered a replacement switch. The switch was delayed in transit so your agent credited me with the cost of shipping.

When the part arrived, it had three terminals instead of two as shown in the on-line picture but that did not cause any difficulty in using it. It took about 20 minutes to remove and replace the old switch.

All seems to be working well now.

Finding which of the THREE switches was the problem was the most difficult part of the repair. All three "clicked" but the defective one did not click as easily. It needed to be depressed more than the door latch can would provide. Old age?

The instructions from another customer was helpful. I concur with another comment I read while researching this proceedure. What Idio-- would design a microwave that required pulling the unit from the wall and removing the top panel just to access. It is good idea to unplug the transformer and capacitor wires before proceeding. I also googled a schematic to see the parts layout. Remember not to touch the bulb with your fingers. Use a cloth or paper towel.

easily IDed parts; ordered, here 3 days later. very convenient. no hassle. no wasted time going from place to place or calling everyone in yellow pages.

I just placed the tray in and was done. The kicker is that i cannot use my microwave without the tray. so i was without my microwave for 2 weeks before i called parts select. they were quick and fast.

Removed 4 screws top and bottom of the outer door panel. Remove outer door, then the two inner panes of glass. You are then able to remove the broken inner glass. Carefully slide the new inner glass into place, being careful not to tear the insulation. Once new inner glass is in place carefully replace the two inner glass panes and secure the screws. Replace the outer door and the top and bottom screws and that's it!

First we had to take the oven door off, which proved a bit tricky. There was a release pin which was hard to find and release. Then we had to unscrew the screws and take the glass and inside of the door off to access the spring hinges. Replacing the hinges was pretty easy, as was reassembling the door. The door snapped back into place and voila! the door stayed shut.

Just had to remove the screws holding the outer part of the door on (didn't have to take off the entire door). Using the other door spring (most models have two that cross) as an example, the new spring was fairly easy to place. Only problem is that the new spring was made from a smaller gauge metal and is not nearly as strong as the original, making the door feel heavier when opening/closing than before. The difference with and without the 2nd spring is barely noticeable. Had I known that they were making the parts cheaper now, I would'nt have bothered fixing it at all.

Removed the 6 screws securing the door and inner frame unit. Lifted off the frame and inner glass unit. Then, after cleaning all the broken glass, put the new glass in; first reattaching the inner frame and then the outer door cover.

The exact part for this oven is no longer available. I purchased one hat was close in size, but larger than the original. Upper and lower brackets hold the glass in place, so length was not a problem but height was. I removed the upper brackets, re-shaped them with the vise, a hammer and metal shears. The glass would now sit inside the bracket where the screws also went. I had to be quite careful the screws did not shatter the new glass.

The hardest part was aligning the 4 holes for the top brackets. Since 2 holes were on one piece of the door, and 2 were on the other (holding the glass sandwiched between) precision was critical. Also the screw length was critical because the glass now sat in a area where it could come in contact with the screws. (I know - pictures would be most helpful, and I didn't take any.)

Using tape and lots of patience, I got the holes aligned. I covered the old holes inside the oven door with spare screws. I filed down the points of the sheet metal screws so that, if they contacted the glass, they would not be pointed.

Once everything was reassembled, I turned the oven on high for about 1/2 hour to ensure the heated metal and glass all played nicely together. We've had no problems in the month since the repair.