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Models > RK747G*D2 > Instructions

RK747G*D2 Hotpoint Wall Oven - Instructions

All installation instructions for RK747G*D2 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the wall oven repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the RK747G*D2
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oven heating element would not heat

  • Customer: Margaret from Stone Mountain, GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
First, and most importantly, flipped the circuit breaker and turned off the power to the oven. Next, Unscrewed the old element and disconnected the wiring. Then, removed the old element and replaced it with the new one.
Reconnected the wiring to the new bake element and screwed it back onto the oven.

Voila! Turned the oven on and watched the new element heat to a bright red. We had an oven once again, and saved ourselves more than $100. Yay!

broken fan blade in the freezer compartment

  • Customer: John from Cumberland, MD
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged frige, removed top shelf, pulled broken fan blade off. Replaced with fan blade just purchased from PartSelect. Very simple repair. Orderd and recieved the right part.

Broiler element not working

  • Customer: Shawn from Newburg, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Pull the stove out from the wall and unplug. Had to remove back of stove, the aluminum sheilding and the duct work to get at wires use nut driver. Then used nut driver to remove nuts from broiler unit inside stove. Take the front overn dover off first. The new part did not match up with the wires so I used a needle nose to spread the wire clips just a tad so they would fit over the tabs of the broiler unit. Do all of this behind the stove as you do not have eough wire to do this effectively from the oven side. After I had the tabs fitted to the broiler unit. I removed them and fed wires back through the stove. I then went back to the front of the stove and put the broiler back in and put support bar back in to ceiling of stove and the two nuts back on to affix broiler to back of oven. Put the aluminum baccking and duct work back onto the back of the stove and plugged it back in. Pretty easy job.

Old element burned out

  • Customer: J T from Clarksville, TN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off the power to the oven. Removed the racks. Removed two screws holding the unit to the back of the oven. Removed two screws holding the wires to the terminals. Removed the old unit. Reversed the process. Piece of cake. The only "difficulty" was that the old wire-to-terminal screws required a nut driver (as did the unit-mounting screws) while the new wire-mounting screws required a #2 Phillips screw driver. Took me a couple of minutes to get one of those from the garage.

Bake elelment was out

  • Customer: Jackie from Hillsboro, OR
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I turned off the breaker to the oven. Removed the old element and replaced. Turned on the oven breaker and turned the over to 350 and it was working great. I was very proud of myself as a 68 year old widow.

Broiler element finally burnt out after many years of cooking.

  • Customer: Gerry from Union City, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
(1) Turned off power source.
(2) Removed rust on screw heads before attempting to loosening them up.
(3) Pulled the element out to expose the connections.
(4) Disconnected with phillips screw driver, taped off wires to prevent mixed-up during re-installation.
(5) Re-installed new element using new screws provided.

The Bake Element in the oven had "blown out" on the right side, and wouldn't heat.

  • Customer: Keith from Lima, OH
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.
Then I connected the two wires to the new element with the screws provided and simply replaced the screws that hold the element in place.
In 20 minutes the job was done. It was a snap to make the repair!

27 year old elements finally went out.

  • Customer: Christopher from Plant City, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
First I cut the power then I pulled the mounting screws, pulled hte elements out enough to get the screws out and then did it in reverse. Piece of cake.

baking element burned out

  • Customer: Terrance from Fresno, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the nuts securing the element to the back of the oven, pulled out the wiring and unscrewed the wires. Went on line and found the part, ordered it, received really quickly and put the part back in the oven. Works great. Oh, I also turned off the power.

After 33 years our double oven clock stopped working.

  • Customer: Thomas from KNOXVILLE, TN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I studied the drawings on the instruction sheet off and on for about 3 hours. I'm 76 and my memory and ability to identify the relevant parts of the old and replacement clock as depicted on the drawings aren't what they were a few decades ago. I took my time studying this until I was confident that I knew which wires needed to go on which terminals on the new clock module. It took me a while to figure out which side (left or right) of the drawing for the old and new clocks were at the end of the module and which side was adjacent to the rest of the module. Careful study of the drawings and examinations of the modules cleared this up. It also took me some time to figure out if the top or bottom of the drawings as depicted on the paper matched up with the top and bottom of the modules when viewed from the front of the oven. After this became clear removal of the wires from the old module (I labeled all of them with masking tape, for example, as L1, L2, common or neutral, Output 1 and Output 2) and placement on the new module was quite straight forward. I then covered all bare wires with the rubber insulators or electricians tape. However, the clock didn't light up when the panel was reassembled and the power was turned back on. I hired a local appliance technician to examine my work. He found 2 wires touching that weren't supposed to be touching where they plugged into the module. After separating them and turning on the power the clock has worked perfectly. The metal bracket on my oven worked with the new clock module. I didn't have to use any of the new brackets that came with the new clock. A few other manageable problems: I needed a torx screwdriver I didn't have to remove 3 screws holding the panel holding the oven dials and clock module on to the oven. A neighbor provided the needed screwdriver. I cut my index finger when removing the black knob attached to the lever used to lock the oven during cleaning. A band aid stopped the bleeding and allowed work to continue. The spring fitting over the end of the lever that wedges the black handle in place cut my finger. I'll use a pliers or protect my fingers with a towel the next time when removing this knob. I had a few hiccups doing this task but am thoroughly pleased with the end result.

light bulb in water ice freezer door went bad

  • Customer: Carl from RIVERSIDE, CA
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Broiler Element failure

  • Customer: Todd from Pineville, NC
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off power at panellboard. Disconnected mounting hardware from inside oven chamber. Pulled failed heating element with wires attached into the oven chamber. Disconnected wiring and reconnected them to the new heating element. Tightened screws while holding connectors with pliers. Applied electrical tape to connections. Pushed wires back into opening and secured heating element back into place. Restored power nad verifed proper operation. The other heater purchased will be used when the bake element finally fails,

Replacing the bulb in the freezer side

  • Customer: Yafa (and David) from Bothell, WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

broiler element circuit broke

  • Customer: James from Lafayette, CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
First removed oven door, according to Reader's Digest repair manual, then removed two screws holding element. Pulled element out several inches, then removed one side of bracket holding up front of element so that bad element could be pulled further out. Then disconnected two red wires from one side and two light blue wires from other side. Removed old Element. Attached two light blue wires to one side and two red wires to other pole, inserted element back into rear wall and attached with two screws, Re-attached bracket holding up front of element. Re-installed door. Tested and it worked fine.

Broiler Element quit working

  • Customer: Parker from Blanchester, OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws in the back. then I removed the two screws attached to the brace at the top. pulled the old element out. Removed the screws that attatced the wires to the element. Attached the wires to the new element. Pushed the wires back in. Pushed the element in and attached the screws. Reattached the support. Turned on the broiler. The element smoked for a few seconds before getting red hot. It is working fine.
All Instructions for the RK747G*D2
16-30 of 381