RK38G*J1 Hotpoint Wall Oven - Instructions

Lid Switch.
Rewiring connection.
Function is satisfactory.
Fan belt ordered is saved.
A 1970 Clothes Washer.

Removed 2 nuts holding the baking unit to the oven back, removed 2 nuts holding wires in place, installed new unit following procedure backwards. It takes longer to get the tools,take the oven door off, and take racks out than it does to remove and replace the baking unit.

I simply took the 3 new timer knobs and slid them on the metal shafts. It took less than 5 minutes to replace all 3 knobs. Now I can set the start, stop and time functions which have been inoperable for over 5 years. An easy and straight forward .

Took off the door, took out the two screws in the back of the element. Then pulled the element forward, then removed the two wires. Then put it all back together with the new element.

Turned off power to the oven at the circuit breaker. Pulled the old heating element from the back lower wall of the oven. Noted the position of the wires (right terminal attached to the red wire, left to the black wire). Removed small bolts holding the element to the wires using pliers. Attached the new element using screw driver. New element came with screws, not bolts. Pushed the element back into place and restored power. Tested to make sure everything worked. Everything works and I ran an oven cleaning cycle. Noticed that indicator light above the temperature selctor is always on now even when oven is in the OFF position. Not sure if that's related to the change or to the oven cleaning cycle I ran. In any case, oven seems to work normally.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

I initially only purchased the heating element since this usually the cause of the broil element not functioning well. It took a little longer to receive because I had to order it over the Holidays. Once it arrived it was very easy to replace. It worked very well after installation but the broil element still did not function. I then purchased the broil element and received it within approximately 4 days. It took just a little more time to replace because there was a brace that was attached to the upper oven that helped to hold it in place. Once the wires were attached with the screws it worked very quickly. It's nice to have my oven back in use again!

Repair went a lot faster and easier than I anticipated. Instructions are similar to those posted by others.
1. Verify that new gasket looks mostly like old gasket as best you can since not all of old gasket is visible.
2. Shut off circuit to oven (optional, but good practice)
3. Remove racks, trays, etc from oven to reduce weight at Step 7
4. Remove oven door by partially opening door to broiler position (about 20 degrees). Door should catch and stay open on its own. Slide up and lift off door. The “hinges” are spring loaded so carefully return them to closed position so they won’t snap shut on fingers.
5. Remove Phillips screws, one on each side wall of oven liner.
6. Remove two hex screws and metal gasket-holder on top center of oven liner.
7. Pull and slide oven liner out of oven mainframe about 1/4 “ to 3/8”. This may be the most difficult part of the job.
8. If possible to remove just a couple of inches of one bottom of old gasket (right side is easiest), verify that the cross-section profile of both old and new gaskets are essentially the same. If not, you have the wrong gasket.
9. Pull and remove old gasket. If gasket is dry and cracking, it may be necessary to scrape it out with putty knife, flat-blade screwdriver, etc. if it has fused to metal over the years. Note how it was installed on the metal edge of the oven liner.
10. Locate the mid-point on the new gasket length and begin inserting it at the top-center of the oven liner where you removed the two hex screws. Continue installing along both left and right sides of the liner. Each end of the gasket should extend to just above the respective hinge. No trimming should be necessary. Ensure a snug fit all along each side and top.
11. Push liner back into oven mainframe. Replace Phillips screws, gasket-holder, and hex screws.
11. Pull out each hinge to broiler position.
12. Replace door by sliding down onto hinges. Close door and check for tight fit against gaskets. Gaskets will flatten somewhat over time
13. Restore power, racks, trays, etc.

The first thing I did wrong was order the wrong part. Then later I did find the Model number on the side of the bottom drawer. I reordered the right part and turned off the electrical breaker. Removed the old element. I then installed the element in the oven with 2 screw nuts and pulled out the stove, took off the back panel and slipped the wire nuts onto the element. Very simple. I am really thankful there is a place to order the part and it came the next day after I ordered it. WHOW!

My husband first turned the main breaker off to the stove. Pulled the stove away from wall, took off the back plate, unhooked the element and out the new one in!!

Very easy and simple/ After making sure power supply was off, removed socket screws in back plate of element, slid old element out, attached new element and replaced/tightened socket screws on plate and new element. Power on, oven on .. heated quickly and nicely. Used oven several times since ... no problems.

When the part arrived, I used the diagram provided by the website to see what really needed to be done. Keep in mind, if you're doing it correctly and disconnect the range from the power source, it's going to be dark inside the oven. Get a good flashlight or electric lantern. There are two screws holding the element in. Mine were 8MM hex-head screws, but be prepared for anything. I removed the with a socket attachment/adapter to my cordless drill/screwdriver, and the part came right out. Some insulation will come as well - don't panic. Installation is similar, just in reverse order. Pay attention to the feet on the element. Make certain they are down. Don't lean on them when you think you're finished and discover that you installed it upside down like someone I know, and have to pull it out to correct this.

Very easy repair. 2 hex head screws to take the heating element out. Then 2 more slot head screws for the wire connections. Perfect fit and operation of the new heating element.

Turned off power. Removed old broken one installed new one in minutes. Turned power on and tested it out. If this 60 something lady can do it, you can too.