RGB745GEV3WH Hotpoint Range - Instructions

Slide out oven door. Remove handle screw and handle. Pick up white insulation. Remove screws to the door gasket. Replace new Door Gasket. It had to te streched to fit. I wish that the new door gasket would be 2 in. longer so it would be easier to install.

I removed the old part then installed the new one with the help of the instruction sheet suplyed,making sure the wires were completly coverd with the protective sleeve.

I took the oven almost completely apart. Clean the entire unit. Replaced the igniter. Put everything back together. Even though I would have liked to have a new, fancy range, I saved myself $1,000.00. I'm not much of a handyman, but this repair was pretty easy.

Removed the oven door and bottom drawer. Removed the oven floor. The igniter bracket was angled in such a way that I had to remove a good deal of the metal thermal shielding underneath the burner element in order to access the bolts on the igniter bracket. Removed the igniter bracket and old igniter. Removed the old igniter from the bracket. Attached the new igniter to the igniter bracket. Snipped the wires attached to the old igniter leaving enough old wire intact to splice in the new igniter. Spliced the new igniter onto the old wiring. Attached the igniter and bracket back on the burner element. Replaced the thermal shielding. Tested igniter operation. Replaced oven floor. Replaced bottom drawer and oven door.

Removed drawer and screwed new guide into place,slipped door pull end plate into handle.

i unplugged the ignitor because i noticed it wasnt getting hot..took my multimeter and checked the voltage going to the ignitor..i had sufficient voltage...removed the ignitor and took a ohm test in which i discovered would not ohm out so this confirmed my diqgnosis...apon arrival of new ignitor i had to just install the connector and reinstall,,,poof..back in business...thanks

The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.

Unplug the power cord. I turned off the gas just in case. I removed the oven door by pulling straight up on the hinges. Remove the storage drawer below the oven. The screws for the lower burner are located in the center at he back of the oven. Unplug the electrical connections for the igniter. Cut the connector wires to the old plugs so that you can connect the new igniter using the cereamic wire nuts provided. Be sure to leave enough to connect the new wires. Screw the new igniter to the burner. Reverse the steps and put the burner back in place and push the wires back through the hole in the back of the cabinet.

While I was at work, my wife followed the instructions provided to repair our oven. She did not have a 1/4 ratchet, and the adapter made the ratchet to big to fit under the igniter to loosen the screws. She made a makeshift tool by placing the socket on an allen (hex) key. She said the screw had originally been installed crooked so she was not able to loosen it and use her fingers, but rather had to use tools until it unscrewed completely. Other than that she said everything worked great. She doesn’t think it matters which wire is spliced onto which ‘plug’. It would have been nice if GE would have put the screws on top of the igniter.

My nephew who is a plumber actually repaired the stove by removing the old heating element and unscrewing the screws and detaching the electrical connections. He explained that he attached the new element with the screws and reconnected the wires using the wire nuts that was included with the new part. He did a fine job and my mom which is his grandmother is baking her heart out. Thanks to my nephew Adrian McCoy. He saved the day and used "Partselect" to accomplish this goal. Thank you from myself and mom.

removed racks, bottom drawer, back 2 knurled screws from bottom of oven. Removed screws from upper heat shield in bottom drawer compartment. Removed the screw holding the burner pipe, removed the two screws holding the burner pipe at the back, disconnected the wires, took the burner pipe and ignitor out of the stove, replaced the ignitor, spliced the wires and then reversed the operation. Tested the ignitor before before putting the stove back together.

Parts arrived in record time and the right parts. The detailed diagram was so helpful in finding exactly the part I needed to order. Was so easy my girlfriend with no mechanical or electrical experience completely helped me through the entire project. She secured the electrical breaker to the range, and I had the top back to the oven removed. I showed her how the little white box simply slides off the lens cover, then replaced the new one in the holes and slide it back on. Secured the back and she turned on the breaker back on...and all lights work. Thanks for making this project easy, simple and quick.

A very simple task. I first disconnected electric then removed the bottom draw then the heat shield to expose the igniter. then unplugged the old igniter and removed the two screws. I cut off one wire at a time off the old igniter leaving plenty of wire to reuse the old electrical connectors. I installed the new igniter and tested it and everything worked fine. Re-installed the heat shield put in the bottom draw and very satisfied with the ease of repair.

I received the part the day after i ordered it, followed the instructions provided and it was super easy Thank you!!

There were 3 ? Types of black burner dishes and 3 types of burner caps. The information I collected did not hint about the different sizes. We sent back 2 caps for the proper ones. Meantime 3 of the dishes were on backorder. I installed the one dish I had. Later the 3 backorder dishes arrived. I began to install them when I discovered I needeed more than one size. I am a retired aerospace engineer. I had to use my file and hammer to fit experiences to make up for my parts ordering deficiency. The new dishes, mounting holes, were different than the one I had previously installed . So in order not to return them and wait an additional few weeks , I filed the mounting holes sufficient to be able to mount them. Then I put the next part on and discovered that it did not fit the new location of the igniter . I filed the approx 1/2" dia hole from round to a "d"configuration on 3 parts , that allowed the igniter to function in two of the new locations . The fourth and smallest burner required an additional 1/4" spacer to move the gas supply riser closer tothe igniter. The burners are all working as new. No fire hazards. My wife does not know the goofs I made. I had to use some inventive methods and I'm still her hero. I would caution all di it yourself people to become very familiar with the parts they need. They may all look the same to the novice but there are slight differences that should require replacement and could take away your hero status.