PLD4375RFC0 Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

I ordered the wrong part ( lower arm ) it came the next day. I than ordered the right part ( middle arm ) again next day. I decided to change both ,they just popped in. The dishwasher works like new. Great people great service.

First I removed the two screws that hold the dishwasher in place, I pulled out the dishwasher and on the bottom right located the leak. The two brass nuts that hold the heating element in place. The wires had been rusted to the element so I cut the wires (and later spliced them back together) and unscrewed the brass nuts. I ordered the part after finding them very easily on partselect.com and 2 days later screwed them back on to the dishwasher. Spliced the wires back together and put the dishwasher back in place.

Easy Fix.

If you are getting intermittent leaks especially when you put a pot lid up front, it’s probably just the door gasket. And this was the easiest project I’ve tackled as a homeowner since buying the place 20 years ago. I read the other stories and I think the suggestion I choose to follow is not the best thing to do. So, read passed where I cut the gasket. I used needle nose pliers to grab the bottom edge of the old gasket which then pulled out by hand with almost no effort. I used the old gasket to measure the new gasket as recommended in one of the other stories, and cut it. DON"T DO THIS. The gasket is very soft foam rubber. As you push it in (I just used my fingers), it will get longer as you push it in. I put it in the first time (took about a minute if that long) and even though I cut it to the same length as the old one, it was too long. Obviously I figured I did something wrong. So, I took it out and measured it again. Nope, same-same. So, I put in a second time, careful not to stretch it, and this time it was now too short. So, I recommend that you just establish the bottom edge 90 degree angle seat and try not to stretch it as you work your way around the seam. It should fit just find, maybe with a little adjustment back or forth, but without cutting it at all. By the way, the half inch I cut off at the recommendation of one of the other reviews did not ruin it. It works just fine. So you can cut it if you want I suppose. But that half inch I cut off was what I was short when I was carful not to stretch it.

I pulled the dishwasher from the cabinet and tilted the unit back so I would have better access to the drain pump. I then removed the hose clamp from the drain hose attached to the pump and removed the hose to let drain into a container. After disconnecting a white and purple wire from the pump and removing the rubber coupling I was able to remove the pump from the housing. Installed the new pump and started the wash cycle and the pump started it's drain cycle which was a relief. Easy fix and great parts!

VERY simple---unscrewed three screws on the broken part (the little nubs that held on the bottom spinner were broken off), screwed the new one back in, re-attached the spinner.

I was VERY pleased with the customer service and quick shipping (ordered on Sunday night, the part was delivered Wednesday morning). I would definitely recommend this site to anyone, and would use it again. Five Stars!!!!

Unscrewed the housing for the old piece and screwed on the new part. No tools needed. Easy to use website, fast delivery. Very easy.

Used pliers to remove old seal. Keep seal in position, note the notch facing the hole. Align the new seal, press it in, the notch helps align. Mine slipped in easy

After moving the dishwasher out from the cabinetry, I removed the screws holding the pump in place. Pulling the pump from the formed plastic opening, I found a toothpick lodged in the pump housing. At the same time I noticed that the front o-ring was deformed due to being the incorrect size (too large). It was installed at the factory this way.

I went online to search for new parts. PartSelect was the second or third listing on the search page. I submitted the dishwasher model number and was taken to a set of parts illustrations. I was easily able to find the o-rings I needed.

Turned off elecrtic and water to dishwasher and pulled dishwasher out from under cabinet. Removed broken hose using pliers to open hose clamps.
installed new hose.

First point of leakage was the door. Turns out that a gasket at the bottom of the door functions as a wave trap. As the bottom sprayer spins it sprays against the door and creates a small wave of water this gasket was starting to disintegrate, it was letting water surge over the small tray at the doors bottom. Easy to replace just pull down and remove press fit on inside door bottom. Only when this was replaced did I find the real leak but not until I guessed at the tub seal as the leak. Very hard to see where the water really comes from! Turns out it was not the tub seal but a clip that holds the heater element got smashed down from a dropped dish rack at some earlier time and this caused the heat to increase at the clip and eventually heat the clip to extent it melted the tub directly under it. JB Weld to the rescue and we have a waterproof tub again. Well almost! The tub gasket resisted my best efforts to seat correctly and thus required a new tub gasket, still hard to seat but after 2-3 attempts we have a winner. Total cost about 50 bucks vs. 6-700 for a new unit. Wife is happy!!

Removed 6 torx headed screw (loosens the internal control panel) and 2 philips headed screws(allows for front door panel removal). 2 torx screws had to be removed from existing latch along with 2 plugs loosened, be aware of how the plugs were connected to the latch. Do the reverse; attach plugs to new latch and reattach latch with the 2 torx headed screws. The 6 torx screws reattach the control panel and the 2 philips screws reattach the front door panel (be sure the front door panel is properly aligned prior to installation of the philips screws).

I removed the kick panel at the bottom front of the dishwasher. Then using a flashlight and a cross point screwdriver, I removed the thermostat from about the middle left. It requires a short screwdriver, but not quite as short as a stubby. I unplugged the wires, noting that one of them was a little burnt looking. The burnt looking connector was still okay. I then installed the new one, with the green dot on the thermostat having the slightly burnt looking connector. Then I ran a load of dishes and the dishwasher worked as it was supposed to. It has worked okay twice since then.

The replacement hose was not as long and the original and therefore did not fit into the track made for the original one. Though it was long enough to work, an additional 4 inches would have been an exact fit.
As a result, the replacement had to be duct taped to the side of the dishwasher to hold it in place. Otherwise, the new hose was of better quality that the flimsy original. All in all, I could have picked up 3 feet of rubber hose from an auto parts or hardware store cheaper and done the job just as well, if not better.

Internet search found high limit switch as primary failure, removed dishwasher existing part looked new, no signs of wear as was expected. Second failure was the heating element, I ordered the part; At the same time I found a random youtube video, that had me check the continuity of the heater and tested good. Then the video indicated the heater relay may have one leg that has lost the solder and stops the heater element from working. I took the control panel a part and the heater relay had the same failure, one leg had a missing solder joint. Using some flux, solder and soldering iron I repaired the connection and added some addition solder to the circuit. Reassembled and the dishwasher is heating as it was before everything is working as expected!
(P.S. The heater relay failure appears to be a common problem, but the actual root cause [relay failure due to poor solder joint] is never reported back to the company, they just hear the heater element stopped working and they never fix the real issue because the customers are throwing out the dishwasher, when it could have been repaired with a simple fix. More importantly it should be something that is investigated as it may needs an engineering redesign. but can't fix what you don't know about or fail to investigate. I did purchase a new relay to replace the existing one, to be installed upon arrival).
Once again a random youtube video identifies and resolves a problem, that would have had me purchasing a new dishwasher, and maybe this is all planned engineering obsolescence.
When will get smart dishwasher that have sensors or at least codes that report the failures correctly, to make DIY repairs?

Replace the latch. Got to cut off old latch, trim wires, install latch, and put on the dishwasher door cover back on with screws